FR34KO

Hey all; I've been talking to Shazza a bit about lowering my car after he prompted me about the Bilstien shocks with lowerd springs he's selling and I'm really unsure what to do so he suggested creating a thread as so many of you have the knowledge that could help me out here.

And yes, I'm aware that some may think i should search through the forum to find info; but thats difficult cos bits are missing everywhere, normally people will ask for help then it dies off and the solution is never publsihed soo... this is a thread personalised to my predicament Plus, I've been wanting to do this for a long time now, so i need to finalise it....


So basically, Shazza's shocks + springs are the Bilstiens with about 40,000kms on them and who knows if my stock shocks have ever been replaced, even if they were done at 100,000; thats 130,000kms ago! lol (as i'm pretty certain they weren't done at 200thou[didn't own it then]). And the springs are King Low up front and Bee-R in the rear.

When i was talking to Chris in person the other day, we discussed the matter. He said that Shane, as many of you know and i've met once, owned the Legacy RSK wasn't it? It had some Tein springs in it so goes the info from chris (I don't know what shocks?) And it sat really really nicely. like so:





That's the height i'd like mine.

Now with that in mind, if i bought what shazza is offering, how high would it sit? Because im guessing it wouldn't be that^ low and I'd therefore have to spend some more dosh on buying those springs that shane had. Leaving me with upgraded shocks and a set of springs to possibly sell..
BUT, i dont have money flowing out of my arse so would just going for the Tein springs be ...ok?

Chris said they come in at about $200, as this quick search shows: http://motors.shop.e...4506.m270.l1313
But i cant find ones for Gen3...

And the Bilsteins Im looking at about 500 from shaz

..If i were to buy those and not be happy i'd be looking at around 750, or if i skip the shocks it'd be only about 250. Writing it like that makes it seem like a no brainer to me, But i keep thinking about the advantages of the shocks.... Hopefully i've explained what im thinking clear enough to understand, because it's definitly not as clear as i'd like it to be hahaha

Any advice or alternatives anyone can suggest?

Really appreciate any help and time.

Oh and does shane still frequent this forum cos id like to ask him for the serial number of those Tein's.

Just chucking this up here as i dont have an actual build [mod] thread going...Will upload pics and continue to do stuff..

(to admin, We can't save a draft anymore?)

Recently,

Have removed "RX 2.5" from the rear badge
Clear coated rear lights
front lip is off for now
removed the rear spoiler -blu-tack covers holes (lol)
removed dash and glove box
removed seat covers -just cause. The disgusting 'EVERLAST' insignia had nothing to do with the desicion

Plans for Berty:

In the process of cutting the lip to fit up higher on the front bar
bleck surrounds.
plans to lower.
pull guards
bought headlight protectors off Chris today, will bleck for daytime LOOKZ and easy on-off ability
bleck bonnet and boot, maybe.
bleck wheels are being painted. primer is on. slow, lazy process lolz
permanently keep on roofracks with 'USDM' front difuser thingy with stickerbombedness. -rear one too
put on mudguards, B4 rear splats, at long last..
Red SMD LED's for dash and HVAC.
fiddle around with LED's elsewhere; IE cup holder.
Additional reversing lights, as current is pretty abysmal. Out of line of sight.
Possibly bleck over middle section of rear light garnish.
replace head unit with one that has a working AUX jack.
Re-arrange system in boot.
De-orange front indicators
Replace broken parker lamps. -possibly with orange LED from superbrightleds.com.
red led dome light.
make indicators flash when (un)locking
Would love a Varex exhaust
And a boot lip spoiler would be sweet
Even fancied the idea of creating a black void of plywood/fiberglass below the rear bumper, might turn out shit looking though haha
GET FULLS
orange centre cap and wheel nuts

After riding in newer revision lib's, i noticed how much more luxurious they feel and pegged it to the colour theme! So I'm going to darken mine up quite a bit to match or something around about there!

so many plans lol. Plus more. Who knows how long it shall take..

Will update with pics and more later

Considered putting this in the turbo section, ended up choosing here just cause.


Just quickly;
My mate is considering swapping his silvia s13 (s15 20DE [or something] engine swapped) for a '96 WRX with a touch over 200thou k's.

Unfortunately he's F'n lazy and got his green P's late so he's got almost a year to go till fulls.

Whats the basics to de-turbo-ing the rexy for the year?? -if possible/worth it


ECU changed? difficulty in sourcing?
etc etc etc.

Thanks for your help cos id really like to get him outa his majorly defect-able silvia. Its a loud bugger with 4in to cat, then 3in all the way through. ridiculous. 2 door cramped thing, not a straight panel, etc.
So i need some facts or know how to encourage him lol

Cheers

Hi all.


This would be a great DIY to do coming into SUMMER, will make that A/C run smooth, fast a COOOOL


Recently my cabin air fan is feeling very weak and according to a sticker in the drivers door frame, this generally means it needs a new air filter.
It says to contact subaru, but id rather skip forkin out money for them to do something simple..

It also says that this should be conducted every 15oooKms or 1 year; so chances are, Yours needs a clean!



I randomly found this thread for a forester so im going to look around the same area and hope its very similar.. This is whats inspired me to do a DIY here on SC.
http://offroadsubaru...hread.php?t=677
^after doing it; overall, its pretty different to the forester!



__________

First; open up the glove box, Pop out the two plastic runners on either side by pushing the sides of the glove box inwards.
Alternatively you can pull them out of their runners.
They look like this; I was a little unsure if i was going to break them as i was going blind...


This will allow the glove box to swing down 180degrees. While still squishing both sides of the glove box inwards, open it up.



This gives you access to most of the screws.



Learning from experience; don't remove these screws yet.

First, you'll need to remove the light and the 'spring button' from the plastic housing. The light is simple, twist it (to the right or left) and then it will fit straight out of the back of the plastic.

This next part was what gave me the greatest trouble out of the whole ordeal..

To remove the spring button from the housing, you'll need to detach a loom that sits behind the airbag compartment, kind of.



After finally finding this loom, i realised going in through the left-most air vent would be ideal.



It simply pops out with a flat head screwdriver.

Looking in through this hole; this is the loom:



The white part towards the back detaches from the black part.

Getting this detached was the next big struggle; i eventually got it out using pliers and other things.
I found that holding pliers in through the air vent hole with your left hand to grasp the loom, and using your right to go in from underneath works ok.. its difficult and awkward.
A small keyring light helps a lot! A stupid big torch gets in the way!

When you manage this; you can take the 'spring button' out of the housing.

Therefore, your able to undo the screws around the border of the plastic. There's 9 ..for now: (circled in red) (blue circle indicates location of another screw, explained later)


Ok so after these 9, there's still one more which i had a lot of trouble finding.. After pulling but it going know where it was being stopped, i did some searching.

To get to this one, you have to take off the plastic panel along the left hand side of the centre console and centre dash.
To do this you need to pop out the gear stick surrounds, unscrew the tray thing at the front via removing 2 screws; remove 2 more at the rear under the lid to the centre console compartment, then lift it up and out over the gearstick. (Its not required to FULLY remove it though as this the panel we need to remove is not constricted now)



Then firmly but gently pop out these 3 tabs that u can see in the below picture



And also remove a screw-tab at the bottom end under the glove box, just to the right of the air vent you in the above picture (I didnt take a more specific pic, unfortunately).

Now you have access to the last screw which was behind the plastic on the right side of the glove box. (Refer to above picture, the blue circle.)

After unscrewing this one, the glove box simply falls off.





SO NOW; you'll have access to the air unit.
you'll be faced with this:



We need to open it up and get out the filter..

Orange cirlce/square are two more looms which have something to do with the running of the air con.. i disconnected them.

The red box indicates the door. To open it, hold the two tabs inwards indicated by blue. Pull the door downards a little, until u can pull it off.

Here's what you'll see:



Pulling out the panel air filter:



Pretty Dirty huh! leaves everywhere; the panel filter is FILLED with gunk.

Gently but firmly clean the filter. Cotton buds can be handy.
You can take it out of the plastic casing (remembering the orientation it was at!).
An air compressor gun would be a good idea. ... I dont have one. Lol could go to the petrol station even!




As you can see, lots of shit comes out.. (there was more than this)

Get a vacuum cleaner into the open door area.


After cleaning, put the filter back in its plastic casing the right way up.

Then put this back into the open door.
An arrow on it marked AIR FLOW indicates which direction.


I plugged it in and turned it on at this point to make sure it was going good. All was.

Put the door back on, starting with the door a little bit lower over the opening than where it will end up; then push it upwards.

Here's the important test.
If its made a difference, your air should be moving better through the air vents.
Mine improved dramatically! Back to its good old self!

If not, a trip to mechanic/subaru/someone with knowledge is needed..

Have fun putting it back together don't forget to put connect up all the plugs!




.
.
peace.

Hey all

now seriously looking for springs to lower Berty..been too too long!
Nick has helped me out a bit (ty)

So looking on ebay, found various options...Would be great if ppl could tell me if they will or wont fit

KSFL22SSL-"ultra low" fronts
KSRL23SL-"Super low" rears
What are peoples opinions on these?
-would any other setup changes need to made to use them? --camber, flaring guards, etcetc
-how low are they? --would the front be much lower than the rear?
-anything else?
All this delivered, $270. Mates could help me fit em

and wondering if these would fit:
Subaru Impreza Wrx Tein Coil Springs
seems like a bargain?
$400

Direct me to other options too please

Cheers guys