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Gen 3 Outback Overhual


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#41 Cam.

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Posted 15 December 2014 - 10:18 PM

SG forester series 2 wheels.

17x7 +48 instead of all the +55 wrx wheels :)

They also have a outback size tyre from the factory.

Ditch your 14mm rear swaybar for a 20mm whiteline one with some heavy duty links...Best mod for this chassis.


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#42 Beckers

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Posted 15 December 2014 - 10:37 PM

 

Ditch your 14mm rear swaybar for a 20mm whiteline one with some heavy duty links...Best mod for this chassis.

 

That Cam man speaks the truth, best bang for ya buck mod you can do, then the billy's.

That should make it handle great.

 

Just wondering did you check/change the cam belt or waterpump while the engine was out  ??  Sorry 4 the question if I missed it in your thread somewhere.

 

Cheers



#43 Krypton

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Posted 16 December 2014 - 05:14 PM

Also when you say Orange over Black, do you mean Blue is going to Orange and Silver trim will be Black, or all Orange with Black wheels and highlights?

 

The blue will be orange and the silver will be black. As much as I like the outback's in a single tone. In the white or red ones I have seen they look unreal. But as for me I always try to do something that hasn't been done, or test the boundaries of trying something new, rather doing something I know will look good. So I still want to try and keep it like an outback with the 2tone. If it looks crap I can always paint the bumpers to match haha.

 

Sounds good and I shall keep an eye out for your beast And regarding wheels I would personally get either some wrx wheels if wanting to save some money or there is a set of forged SSR wheels on gumtree for $500 with some almost dead tyres :) if u need links to wheels I'm ya man!

  

Yea for sure more than happy to be sent a link to have a look at some other options.

SG forester series 2 wheels.
17x7 +48 instead of all the +55 wrx wheels :)
They also have a outback size tyre from the factory.
Ditch your 14mm rear swaybar for a 20mm whiteline one with some heavy duty links...Best mod for this chassis.

 

Sounds good these are the sort of mods I will want to do before painting the car, as I want to go do some track days when it gets on the road. More than happy to have any tips like this pushed my way.

 

That Cam man speaks the truth, best bang for ya buck mod you can do, then the billy's.
That should make it handle great.
 
Just wondering did you check/change the cam belt or waterpump while the engine was out  ??  Sorry 4 the question if I missed it in your thread somewhere.
 
Cheers


Nah you haven't missed it. But I got a service done when it was out. Not sure if I got the water pump done tho.

#44 Niko

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Posted 16 December 2014 - 05:41 PM

Cool, in my mind all Orange would look better than Orange with Black border, but really keen to see you do it so we can all have a look, it could turn out to be great.



 


#45 Krypton

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Posted 16 December 2014 - 05:48 PM

As long as I don't put the xv wheels under it. There is some massive hate on them hahaha.

#46 AB501UT!0N

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Posted 16 December 2014 - 07:22 PM

 
Yea for sure more than happy to be sent a link to have a look at some other options.
 

 

Understated, Forged, Quality and great size :)

 

http://www.gumtree.c...x100/1062577117



#47 Krypton

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Posted 18 December 2014 - 08:44 AM

Had a quick look but at work so making it bit hard to have a good search but does anybody know where the fuel pump control module is in the gen3 outback. Last piece of the puzzle so I can get it on the road

#48 Krypton

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Posted 18 December 2014 - 11:01 AM

Ok just found out it didn't have one haha. Now just have to work out what I have to tap into?

#49 duncanm

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Posted 18 December 2014 - 12:48 PM

Had a quick look but at work so making it bit hard to have a good search but does anybody know where the fuel pump control module is in the gen3 outback. Last piece of the puzzle so I can get it on the road

 

There isn't one. The pump is wired straight to a relay and runs at 100% all the time.

 

You need to get a fuel pump controller from a WRX or other turbo suby.  There's a couple of bolt holes in the rear panel forward of the car jack receptacle for it ready to go. Then make up a harness and wire in to the existing fuel pump supply. You'll also need to run a couple of control wires from the SMJ to the pump controller.

 

I presume you've put in an uprated fuel pump like a Deaschtwerks or similar?  Do so, otherwise I'd be worried about fuel starvation at full throttle.

 

You can run ok with the current setup (no controller).. to get it on the road.  



#50 duncanm

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Posted 18 December 2014 - 12:52 PM

Actually - I was wrong about the SMJ. The wires come out of a front bulkhead plug. B98.

 

See attached EJ25 vs. TT wiring diagrams for the fuel pump.

 

 

 

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#51 Krypton

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Posted 18 December 2014 - 07:46 PM

Actually - I was wrong about the SMJ. The wires come out of a front bulkhead plug. B98.
 
See attached EJ25 vs. TT wiring diagrams for the fuel pump.


Wow that helped so so much.


And I am pleased to say the car is now back on the road. Have so much fun but there are a few little problems main one is lack of boost and power but I think that might be from the restriction of the 2 1/4 inch I have on there.

#52 duncanm

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Posted 18 December 2014 - 08:25 PM

Great to hear your up and running ..  its probably your muff (and old cat?) providing the majority of the restriction... also double double check for boost leaks - its easy to miss a vac line.

 

I would have thought the NA exhaust should flow free enough to get the primary on full boost.



#53 Krypton

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Posted 18 December 2014 - 09:18 PM

It's holding boost but still feels very restricted. I thinks it's a combo of alot of things, exhaust, not having the proper bonnet with boot for the intercooler. Just seems to take a long time to get through to 6rpm

#54 duncanm

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Posted 18 December 2014 - 09:38 PM

you did change over to the matching diff, right ? :)



#55 Krypton

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Posted 18 December 2014 - 10:23 PM

you did change over to the matching diff, right ? :)


Haha yea I did. Well I'm running 6psi of boost is that the norm I don't know much about the twin turbos so it's all a big learning curve I am enjoying it a lot tho. A lot of info I've been enjoying on here.

#56 duncanm

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Posted 19 December 2014 - 05:44 AM

Maybe you're right - it's the exhaust. I get about 15psi on single and twins. Easily 10 around town by 2500rpm

#57 allpaw4

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Posted 20 December 2014 - 06:01 AM

Yea, somethings not right there for sure. I started making boost at 1900 when I was running the twins, and it built up pretty damn quick on the primary. Rev out 1st gear extremely quickly. Certainly want to get a rubber surround onto the bonnet - you wont get much, if any air through the cooler without it.


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#58 duncanm

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Posted 20 December 2014 - 06:05 AM

is primary wastegate pressure about 6psi ?



#59 Krypton

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Posted 20 December 2014 - 07:20 AM

Yea, somethings not right there for sure. I started making boost at 1900 when I was running the twins, and it built up pretty damn quick on the primary. Rev out 1st gear extremely quickly. Certainly want to get a rubber surround onto the bonnet - you wont get much, if any air through the cooler without it.

 
I'll be getting one today hopefully
 

is primary wastegate pressure about 6psi ?

It holds 6psi all the way thro the range.

Could it be at all possible that it's in a limp mode?

#60 allpaw4

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Posted 20 December 2014 - 09:45 AM

No check engine lights?

MY02 Blue B4, aka 'The Project' - v8 Spec C engine package and assorted other 'goodies' - Sold, then bought back for parts. In process of stripping.

MY97 Silver RX, aka 'The Track Toy' - All good bits from B4 will find their way into this...
MY03 Holden Commodore - Daily. Because good on fuel.





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