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Basics required for track work


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#1 Brett82

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Posted 24 February 2015 - 03:51 PM

Hi
I've got an my00 gc8 and am looking to be doing an occasional track day with it, what im interested to know is what are the basics suspension wise that are recommend to get the best out of it.

This car is daily driven so I don't want to go nuts and end up with a track pig, just simple stuff that make a big difference

Cheers Brett

#2 FOZ_XTC

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Posted 24 February 2015 - 03:55 PM

Front and rear sway bars with end links and mount supports

coilovers

Strut tower brace

Brake pads, braided lines, good fluid, new rotors

Good tyres



#3 RX25SE

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Posted 24 February 2015 - 03:59 PM

I would suggest make sure it is reliable and all levels are full and there is nothing loose in the car, then get out there!

 

Best you track it first to find the car's (and your) strengths and weaknesses. Take an accurate tyre gauge and a small compressor with you so you can monitor and adjust the pressures. You will be surprised how much they will change.

 

 

 

If you do need to mod it beforehand, I would start with the brakes.


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#4 Brett82

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Posted 24 February 2015 - 04:19 PM

Awesome sounds like the normal basics along with a good wheel alignment and it should be fine

#5 cameron

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Posted 24 February 2015 - 04:55 PM

1. braided lines
2. new brake fluid
3. a set of track rotors - $40 cheapies are what i have.
4. a set of track pads - QFM's is what i use
5. rear swaybar + links + mounts
6. front swaybar + links + mounts
7. coilovers/suspension upgrade
8. strut braces
8. wheels and tyres

Have you put any more thought into squeezing some more power out of the engine. Like strapping on one of those intake fans


#6 Josh.

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Posted 24 February 2015 - 05:00 PM

To start with just make sure everything is in good health and all your fluids are full.

You will still have heaps of fun in a stock car but obviously if you want to go faster you will need to start modding.

#7 nickknack

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Posted 24 February 2015 - 05:02 PM

I agree with you Josh, but it's very easy to cook your brakes, I've done it before. So track pads and rotors are definitely worth it

#8 alexGT

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Posted 24 February 2015 - 06:41 PM

brakes brakes brakes!

 

280+ rated fluid

slotted rotors

pads rated up to 800 deg (A1RM or similar, great value)

 

COOL DOWN LAP if you want your car to survive also...


MY07 GT spec B

 


#9 RX25SE

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Posted 24 February 2015 - 06:48 PM

Brakes are definately important but it does depend on the track. At Philip Island the stock brakes in the RX were fine because in a road car you only need them in two spots. The RB at Winton works the brakes harder (plus the RB is a porker) but they still lasted longer than the tyres.
If you run track tyres, then you will need to sort out the brakes.

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#10 Brett82

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Posted 24 February 2015 - 07:12 PM

I've got another set of wheels with semi slicks on them, brakes, I was going to change the fluid and pads (4 piston)
Normal make sure I don't have any leaks and everything that needs refreshing has been. Depending how the budget look a set of sway bars and shocks will be on the list

#11 RX25SE

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Posted 24 February 2015 - 08:29 PM

Yup, just change the brake fluid, fit the semi's and go have fun. If you fit new pads, do it well beforehand and bed them in on the street.


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#12 Brett82

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Posted 24 February 2015 - 11:12 PM

Cool sounds like a plan, I'm going to do a bit of a build thread at some point. Will be interesting to see how different it is compared to my Gtr

#13 fatcat67

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Posted 24 February 2015 - 11:41 PM

I wouldn't worry much about roll bars and links, just a decent set of coil overs. BC's are pretty good for the money, with front 10kg and rear 8kg spring rates.

By the time you've spent on roll bars and links you could put the extra money to a set of BC's. They are surprisingly compliant with those rates but if you know someone I'd go for a ride first to see if you like it.

I'm running a set of Apexi struts that MCA have completely rebuilt recently and this is a setup they recommend as a good start.

Alignment of 3.5deg camber (maybe 2.5 if it's to remain a streeter) with neutral toe and max caster(again caster not entirely nesessary). Rear Neutral and around 1.5deg camber.

DS2500 on the front and rear and a cheap set of RDA's upfront. I find RDA's last better than DBA's as well. Cool down essential as I've pitted with the bastards on fire. They kept braking though.

As Jase and a few of the boys have mentioned fluid is key too as is bearing grease especially as you are running Semi's.

There a few more minor tricks but that should get you into happy fun times.


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Then when you get the money, you get the power.
Then when you get the power, then you get the women.

#14 CRUISN

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Posted 25 February 2015 - 12:30 AM

Track days in your daily? You will never push it as hard as you can as always in the back of your mind is you need the car to get to work tomorrow, etc....

Hire a new Commodore for $100 a day and do a track day in it... ;) Saves wear and tear on your car. Cheaper if you crash it too. :)

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#15 Brett82

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Posted 25 February 2015 - 03:47 AM

As sad as it is to say the wrx would be less likely to break compared to the Gtr and certainly a hell of a lot cheaper to fix or replace if something went wrong

#16 Niko

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Posted 25 February 2015 - 05:19 AM

Too true, you could probably pickup a whole GC8 for spares for a fair price.

What's the GTR? Sounds 34 or 35 by your expensive parts comment.


 


#17 CodeBurn3r

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Posted 25 February 2015 - 09:15 AM

I tracked my Daily for a while (before it became a weekend Track hack)

 

Good Rotors never go astray..  I use T3 DBA.. but then i do Winton which is hard on brakes!

Pads.. A1RM - Cheap and handle the heat but dont take too long to warm up for street use (THIS IS IMPORTANT!)

Brake Fluid - Castrol SRF is what im swapping to but at near on $80 Per Litre its pricey for starters.. Standard Castrol React/Response are one of the highest temp Super DOT4 Fluids and at about $12 per litre and you can get it from Supercrap its probably the best bet.

Braided lines are great.. i dont have any yet lol.. my pedal is a bit spongy but then i always tap the pedal before i hit the brakes (habit from old days of sliding callipers where Pad Knockback is much more pronounced)

Change your oil! .. Fresh oil before a track day! 
Check the fluids.. Coolant, Power Steering (PS Fluid is always one that people are surprised about but you'll be surprised how friggen hot that shit gets and if the cap isn't great it ends up everywhere!

Tyres.. IMO as long as they aren't LingLong Nangkangs you'll be fine... Trash out a set of Street tyres until you get better and can put good tyres to use.

I run 2.5 Front Camber and 1.5Rear
I don't subscribe to needing Coils.. but then i have Billies and they are (IMO) better than cheap coilovers

Sway Bars, Rear is more important.
Strut Braces do SWA - only once you are pushing it will you notice it..
The GC8 is a pretty decent chassis to start with.

I'm a bit of a Stickler for this (but then again i haven't broken any gearboxes!) New Gearbox Fluids every few track days... I like Castrol Syntrax.. it's not cheap.. and only comes in bloody 1L bottles... but in my own FIRST HAND experience.. it is my preferred fluid. My box has a shifty 4th gear syncro and doing this has kept it going for over half a dozen Track days now.

 

Anything more than these basics and you're wasting your money...
Once you are doing plenty of days you will learn what your car needs.


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#18 Barbbachello

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Posted 25 February 2015 - 09:18 AM

This thread seems like a candidate for a sticky


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#19 alexGT

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Posted 25 February 2015 - 11:50 AM

What I would do if I had a completely stock MY00.

 

Oil filter + Oil change prior ($50-80)

Slotted rotors + A1RM (front only - $300 or so)

Rear sway bar + HD links (~$300)

Brake fluid flush (DIY + fluid $20 for 2 500ml bottles (super dot4 280deg+)

Tyres with decent tread (varying). For a stock powered MY00 this isn't critical.

Gopro/cheap camera setup in cabin, great for analysing your laps afterwards (or inbetween breaks) great for seeking advice too.

 

This is plenty to get you going, and your car will still have higher limits than you can achieve (if you are a novice driver).


MY07 GT spec B

 


#20 Brett82

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Posted 25 February 2015 - 12:15 PM

Too true, you could probably pickup a whole GC8 for spares for a fair price.

What's the GTR? Sounds 34 or 35 by your expensive parts comment.

its a 32 but it's a very clean one and to replace it for one in equal condition id be looking at 20k compared to the 5k that I bought my gc8 for.

Awesome pads and fluid change were first on the list of things to do and everyone is backing up what I was thinking and by the sounds of it these really don't need much to become and enjoyable track car




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