Suby Club

Hi removed my engine to replace rear main..
When trying to get motor out was held in by cutch and bearing/fork.
Disengaged clutch and removed engine.
Noticed clutch release bearing is clicked into pressure plate( hadnt seen like this)
Put engine back in car same way as removal.
while moving car my wife accidently pushed clutch to floor only way of getting slave into fork was to crack bleed nipple so now require bleeding as pedal drops to floor and fork has bout 10mm of freeplay before even touches slave rod.
Need help/images of std b4 clutch?

What are you asking exactly?

How to bleed the clutch?

Watch the pin didn't pop out of the slave...as it generally means its ruined and will leak under pressure, has for me in the past anyways

Just sounds like youve let air in and you need to bleed the clutch...no stress really

Lots of info on how to do this, same as doing brakes except you will have to slowly pull the pedal back up off the floor each time

Yes searched on here other day and found page containing info but cant find now.
Tried bleeding through nipple but didnt change after 10min.read that can do through pipe nut near reservoir 1st.

Its a pull type clutch so the release bearing may have come loose from the pressure place. Needs to be attached, unlike a push type clutch.

You may need to remove again and reassemble. The pin for the clutch fork needs to go in after you bolt the box to the engine.

Yes this is how i re-installed engine.
Fingers crossed its just a bleed issue.
What is best way to bleed through members experience?

Does sound like a bleed issue but the rod usually is hard up against the fork

Try pushing the fork towards the slave and It should click in

I re installed clutch as it came off.
Leaving release bearing in pressure plate . then when located main shaft of transmission fed fork onto locating tabs on bearing and fed up through bellhousing.
Everything went in straight forward but now i have gap of about 10mm from fork and slave rod and can move fork about 5mm but wen trying to bleed fluid pedal goes to floor and rod stays same distance from fork.no air can be seen.just after correct b4 bleeding procedure.

don't know what 'correct' procedure is, but I had good success with forcing fluid in the slave nipple with a big syringe.  Sort of a backwards bleed.

 

That 10mm gap doesn't sound right, though - even with air in the system, the slave should move with no load on it.

Could it be that the clutch fork is the wrong way around?  I cant remember if it possible to do or not :/

Cool ill try that if not box coming out....
Spewing would have been sweet if didn't get sh@ts and just crack hose to allow me to get slave located on fork in first place..
Thanks for help.
Will check out tmw.
Try bleed,move fork and locate bearing.

Easiest way to mate the engine and gearbox is to put the thrust bearing on the input shaft and put the fork through it and slide the rod thing though and tighten up the cap

Then push back onto the engine and bolt up
Push the fork to you hear a click and your done.

Give that method a try if you can get the clutch to work once all the air is out

Dont think can go both ways it has a locating hole for slave rod im sure?

Yes this is how i re-installed engine.
Fingers crossed its just a bleed issue.
What is best way to bleed through members experience?

 

OK

 

Was the thrust bearing still attached to the pressure plate when you put the box back on?

Did the fork go back into it's position in the tabs on the thrust bearing?

Are you simply saying the clutch wont bleed?

Yes.bearing was still located in pressure plate.slid in and located fork in tabs .slid fork up into bellhousing and mated engine/gearbox with no snags.
I believe(hope)bleed issue only...

Sweet. I hope you are right.

 

This is the best & quickest way to bleed your clutch.

 

Loosen bleed nipple on the slave cylinder with a bleed line attached.

Push the rod on the slave all the way back into the slave cylinder. . (Nipple must be open and fluid will come out when you do this)

Clamp the rod in with a G clamp so it can not move outwards at all.

Proceed bleeding (with slave rod clamped) as per normal.

Keep an eye on reservoir level.

 

Note... when the bleed nipple is tightened do NOT push the clutch pedal in or you will break something!!!

 

Bleed until no air is seen in the bleed line and tighten the nipple TIGHT!.

Remove clamp.

Pump pedal slowly whilst directing the rod into its position on the fork. 

Once it is in position pump it a few times more and.......

 

You are done!  

You will notice a heap more fluid moving with each pump of the pedal and you are effectively removing an air pocket in the slave cylinder.

B4's slaves are sloped downwards which creates a pocket that is so hard to clear of air with conventional bleeding.

This is how you get the thrust bearing out..... so easy.

 

Sweet as..fingers crossed all ok.
Thanks heaps for help.

No problem.