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ECV Rattle

tt aids fml ecv rattle

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#1 TSG

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Posted 07 July 2015 - 09:38 PM

As mentioned in the GT. I had my car serviced and it was brought up that my secondary turbo actuator (ECV) has developed a rattle at idle. However I can't hear it at idle to be honest. When he tried to demonstrate I had to rev the motor (not a lot) then it will rattle off throttle. He wasn't sure how to adjust this, generally he works on single turbo Subaru's, but he is very good. He wants to ask around himself before giving it a go another time.

 

I searched the forum and found a guide to adjust, 'ADJUSTING ECV OPERATION ROD' http://www.subyclub....-to-twin-turbo/. If I'm brave enough I might try this if its necessary. The car does run fine, it has a stock tune (to my knowledge). I can definitely feel the boost down low (have a boost gauge) and changeover is usually pretty quick when I'm generous with the go pedal. It can delay a bit on occasion. Maybe it just needs a slight adjustment? If you have any other helpful input, let me know.



#2 Jimbo

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Posted 07 July 2015 - 10:44 PM

Try winding it in a fraction and see if that helps? If you can't hear it or notice any change in performance, just leave it as is.


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#3 Guest_KONG_*

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Posted 08 July 2015 - 01:28 PM

Grab 2 x 10mm open ended spanners, the shorter in length the better.  The one that comes in the factory tool kit is perfect for this.

 

Find the rod & coupling nut under the ECV, I always mark the top side of the nut so I know where it was originally, just to be safe.

 

Loosen slightly or just crack the seal on the lock nuts on both sides of the ECV rod coupling nut with one spanner, use the other spanner to stop the coupling nut rotating while you do this.

Best to do all this while the engine is cold, it can be fiddly as there's not much room there.... and who wants burnt hands anyway, not me  ;)

 

Both the lock nuts need to be turned towards the driver side to loosen, there's reverse thread on one of them yo.

 

Start her up and once it's warm, turn the coupling nut to the driver side to tighten the ECV flap, passenger side to loosen ( flap rattle will increase if you loosen).

 

Tighten lock nuts whilst also holding the rod coupling nut in place.... bingo, you're done.

 

 

In your case I'd turn it a 1/4 of a full rotation to the driver side and see how that goes. 



#4 TSG

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Posted 08 July 2015 - 02:06 PM

Cheers, I might take a look at it when I attack the steering rack bushes.



#5 TSG

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Posted 05 September 2015 - 07:08 PM

I finally got around to doing this today. Heard it rattling again off throttle when I gave it 1000rpm and released. I did as you said. Drove it down the freeway and seems to boost OK. I had a more noticeable VOD before and really felt the secondary about 4k, it doesn't come on as hard now but the power is there. Better or worse? I'm not sure yet lol. I'll do a 0-100 tomorrow morning, maybe I'll dial it back just a bit if its not coming on soon enough.

Oh yeah and removing the heat shield is a prick of a job and my knuckle paid the price. Was able to undo it and move it out of the way.

#6 Jimbo

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Posted 05 September 2015 - 07:37 PM

If it doesn't come on as hard, it's a good thing. You have reduced the VOD at the same time, which is a win-win. The power will be there but you have smoothed the delivery, that's what you want!

 


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#7 TSG

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Posted 05 September 2015 - 09:49 PM

It seems more linear now that's for sure. I'll have to do some more science tomorrow. But yeah all signs point to me reducing the VOD on open throttle. Just need to see how it performs around town ducking in and out of traffic.

#8 TSG

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Posted 07 September 2015 - 09:25 AM

Sorry for the double post, but just a final update as it might help someone else someday.

 

I found it was just a tad more sluggish even though it felt like I had tightened up the VOD. When I braked into the VOD and then accelerated (going up a hill, or overtaking, for example) it would lag up around 4k just a little too long for my liking, the car felt less 'ready'.

 

So I went home and did a full reset. I turned it until it chatters, then to when it just stops to chatter. Then about another 1/6th of a turn. Just enough to stop it clicking off throttle when I blip the throttle. Much happier with it this time. 0-100 is smooth and quite brutal once the secondary joins in. When it falls into the VOD it feels more 'ready to go', the auto will kick back and the boost comes on much stronger.

 

I knew before I started that it was 14psi primary, 12psi with the secondary. I would only see about 10psi secondary on the first setting. It is back to how it used to be now.







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