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Minimum required for 4 wheel drift?


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#1 surge

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Posted 13 August 2015 - 12:01 AM

Curious what the minimum build would be to get a gc8 to drift like this:

https://youtu.be/WTAPpsL2xOU

Including that exhaust sound with the cracking and popping (antilag or overfuel?).

Let's say you start with a stock closed deck ej20.

Or is that not an ej engine in the vid?

#2 Barbbachello

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Posted 13 August 2015 - 12:12 AM

How deep are your pockets? To match that video youd need a built gearbox, R180 at least, probably uprated CV shafts, antilag, a built engine so that you didnt melt everything and a shit load of practice/driver skill. Plus your engine and turbo would probably be rooted after a few hundred kms.

If you want skids get a nissan


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#3 duncanm

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Posted 13 August 2015 - 08:07 AM

bald tyres and a wet road?

 

But in all honesty - not that much. Get some mad skills - WRC cars only have 300-350hp.

 

Probably more to do with diff setup.

 

Go find a quiet dirt road and do it there.

 

Certainly sounds like an EJ to me.



#4 allpaw4

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Posted 13 August 2015 - 01:00 PM

Couple of spare gearboxes and diffs, anti lag (you want a spec C ecu, they have a toggle switch in the ecu for it) and probably DCCD. Spare turbos are a must as well. Anti lag is known to kill them. Other than that, the rally spec cars are restricted to limit power, especially as that didn't look like a wrc car, looked more like group n or something like that, maybe a privateer. So as Duncan said, power isn't the be all and end all there. Remove your cat converter too. Anti lag won't be very nice to it. The car in the video was certainly running an ej motor, and a built box too, about 10 to 20 seconds in you can hear the whine of straight cuts.

MY02 Blue B4, aka 'The Project' - v8 Spec C engine package and assorted other 'goodies' - Sold, then bought back for parts. In process of stripping.

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#5 allpaw4

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Posted 13 August 2015 - 01:08 PM

Have a read on anti lag systems, most of them pulse the injectors during the exhaust cycle of combustion, or run a dedicated injector into the exhaust, blowing the fuel mix up to keep the turbo spinning. It's incredibly harsh to the mechanical side of things.

MY02 Blue B4, aka 'The Project' - v8 Spec C engine package and assorted other 'goodies' - Sold, then bought back for parts. In process of stripping.

MY97 Silver RX, aka 'The Track Toy' - All good bits from B4 will find their way into this...
MY03 Holden Commodore - Daily. Because good on fuel.


#6 Richo

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Posted 13 August 2015 - 01:47 PM

good diffs. Hydrolic handbrake wouldn't hurt

 

Less power = bigger balls needed

 

this was at about 50kph (not a drift, just handbrake.



#7 Robert

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Posted 13 August 2015 - 02:36 PM

If anybody can find billsys vid at a motorkhana I think


Now that's a good video to show what a car can do

#8 Robert

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Posted 13 August 2015 - 02:39 PM



#9 duncanm

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Posted 13 August 2015 - 05:02 PM

awesomes!

#10 surge

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Posted 13 August 2015 - 07:02 PM

Great info.

So from that youtube link he claims it's mechanically stock with the exception of turbo, intake, exhaust and coilovers.
Not bad.

Defiantly will look into the spec c ecu.

I've got a white gen 1 liberty wagon with a 1994 wrx driveline conversion that needs some direction or inspiration.

#11 Barbbachello

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Posted 13 August 2015 - 07:26 PM

Its definitely got straight cut gears in it


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#12 surge

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Posted 13 August 2015 - 09:07 PM

Sorry I was referring to billsys vid at a motorkhana, not my original posted vid.

#13 Jimbo

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Posted 13 August 2015 - 09:12 PM

Lol.

Billsy's GTB was still twin turbo too. Whos says TT's suck?


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#14 allpaw4

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Posted 13 August 2015 - 09:19 PM

That certainly wasn't a stock gearbox I heard, unless it's about to go bang.
Haha. That'll teach me to post before reading the rest of the thread lol.

MY02 Blue B4, aka 'The Project' - v8 Spec C engine package and assorted other 'goodies' - Sold, then bought back for parts. In process of stripping.

MY97 Silver RX, aka 'The Track Toy' - All good bits from B4 will find their way into this...
MY03 Holden Commodore - Daily. Because good on fuel.


#15 Robert

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Posted 13 August 2015 - 09:24 PM

I don't know exactly in billsys case but it's common practice to have a decent sized rear sway bar and disconnect the front sway bar

That will promote over steer

#16 Billsy

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Posted 01 May 2017 - 11:28 PM

lol, heres an epic post dig  :diablo:

 

Just thought id mention that in that video, and many motorkhanas and track days i had stock drivetrain,

whoever thinks you can hear straightcuts there, hasnt heard how loud they actually are see > https://www.youtube....h?v=wlKC85iTY6o

I had straightcuts in at certain stages, but always gave no fucks to the stocker, as long as i had a standard clutch and drove with some sympathy.

hard to tell, but i was actually slipping the clutch on all those transitions, not just dumping it at 7k each time.

 

Stock Gearbox

Stock shitty R160 viscous diffs.

Stock swaybars and links

and the secret to keeping it all in one peice, a STOCK Clutch

the weird squeek is the shagged handbrake.

 

with helical front, plated rear and way more power, shes far more of a weapon now.


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#17 El_Freddo

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Posted 04 May 2017 - 08:34 PM

So did you disconnect the front sway bar in that vid as someone me tioned that you may have?

Pretty awesome bit of fun!

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#18 Billsy

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Posted 16 May 2017 - 12:22 AM

Nope, didnt touch the swaybar. standard 20mm GTB bars F&R

 

 

Took it out to a motorkhana 2 weeks ago.

 

the plated rear and PPG hellical front diff combo is VERY different to slide.

it doesnt spin on the point anymore, it just powerslides/Drifts where ever you point the wheels,  took some getting used to. and it much faster and actually harder to control


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#19 El_Freddo

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Posted 20 May 2017 - 07:14 PM

That's pretty interesting about your current setup. Was it harder to control because you added a front diff so bother front wheels are pulling at the same time?

Are you finding this a better setup now?

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#20 Billsy

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Posted 21 May 2017 - 11:42 AM

yeah, its harder to control with the front lsd because it used to mainly spin the inner front wheel and you could simply steer and point where you want to go.

now it spins both, requires more power and the diff and steering is trying to pull straight so your fighting that, aswell as the front having much more control over where the cars going you have to be far more accurate with the steering input, in a lesser period of time as it slingshots out of the slide quickly.


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