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Engine re-install AT trans


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#1 Jimbo

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Posted 10 March 2016 - 06:36 PM

Gents,

Just a question regarding the torque converter on re-installation of the motor to the trans.

Does it matter really which way I do it?

Would I connect the torque converter to the engine and then attach to the transmission? ( I removed the engine with it attached)

OR,

Do I place it back into the transmission first and fiddle with trying to put the stupid backing plate/TC bolts in through the service hole? (This is the way the SM instructs, but seems stupid)

I'm leaning towards the first option as I can imagine dropping the bolts down the service hole and being in a world of pain. Not to mention trying to line up the TC with the backing plate somehow as the transmission won't be able to spin to get it around anyway.

Reason I ask, I'm concerned the TC spline has to go onto the gearbox a certain way, or does it not matter?


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#2 Jimbo

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Posted 10 March 2016 - 08:29 PM

Did some digging and found the answer.

Looks like it has to be the hard way!

FYI for anyone else that has no idea (like myself), the torque converter needs to be "seated" into the transmission first, before re-installing the engine. Reason being, the notches on the leading edge of the TC shaft need to engage the transmission oil pump, then seated onto the spline. So apparently it'll clunk into place. There will be a slight gap between the flex plate and the TC when it comes to aligning them to bolt up but getting the bolts in will bring it back out slightly.

Also, to align the bolt holes on the flex plate with the TC, apparently you should be able to freely spin the TC as there's not enough hydraulic locking pressure to prevent it from spinning with everything inactive.

SO, the answer is NO you cannot mount the TC to the flex plate first and then put it onto the transmission.

I'm thinking, rather than trying to line up the flex plate and TC through the service hole and dropping the bolts eleventy times, should I be able to do it from underneath the car if I have the trans and engine mated but jacked up as high as it will go? Obviously I will have to remove the useless cover plate underneath the engine.

Anyone got any tips or experience they can share?


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#3 CRUISN

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Posted 10 March 2016 - 08:40 PM

Yep, TC MUST stay in trans.

 

Easy as to refit and then spin to line up holes through the service hole.... with the manifold off. I havent done it with manifold in place but i'd say it'd be a bit more of a pain.


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#4 Jimbo

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Posted 10 March 2016 - 09:09 PM

I think having the IC off would suffice, though part of the reason why I thought I could tackle it from underneath. At least if I drop a bolt it wont be a nightmare.

All rides on how much clearance I can get between the engine/trans and crossmember.


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#5 Jimbo

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Posted 11 March 2016 - 11:12 AM

How do you know whenbits "in" ? Is it an obvious sorta clunk and twist?

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#6 Robbks

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Posted 11 March 2016 - 01:47 PM

While I don;t know specifically,
but DO NOT force it.
the previous owner of my Leggy tried to seat it by tightening the bellhousing bolts and rooted the pump spline, etc



#7 Jimbo

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Posted 12 March 2016 - 06:31 PM

Not happy. Goddam auto trans.

Bad forking news. Read the FSM and it talks about a clip on the TC. "What clip?" was my question. Oh there it is, still in the damn transmission. So I fetched it out, and its bent and busted. Oh and while I'm there, the input shaft seal has perished and come to bits.

Looks like a similar seal to a rear main, just a bit smaller. Now, how the hell do I get the old seal out? Do I just pry it out with a screwdriver or something?

Petrol + Matches not far away.


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#8 motoboy76

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Posted 13 March 2016 - 11:51 AM

Nasty Jimbo, the challenge continues...

 

Good luck with it mate....



#9 LPM_B4

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Posted 13 March 2016 - 12:00 PM

Not happy. Goddam auto trans.

Bad forking news. Read the FSM and it talks about a clip on the TC. "What clip?" was my question. Oh there it is, still in the damn transmission. So I fetched it out, and its bent and busted. Oh and while I'm there, the input shaft seal has perished and come to bits.

Looks like a similar seal to a rear main, just a bit smaller. Now, how the hell do I get the old seal out? Do I just pry it out with a screwdriver or something?

Petrol + Matches not far away.

ive heard a self tapper into rear mains and then pry out using screw as leverage 



#10 Jimbo

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Posted 13 March 2016 - 01:28 PM

Okay, so I got the circlip out which is shagged and I removed the busted oil seal.

This is where the fun begins.

Apparently, when the TC is removed, the oil pump shaft should come out with it and the circlip holds them together. Obviously you remove the circlip and you can separate them. The oil pump shaft didn't come out with my TC and it's still seated where it belongs. When I removed the engine, it was probably too much force and the circlip buckled and the pump shaft stayed in the box.

The FSM states you need to join the TC and the pump shaft back together with the circlip, and then gently push it all back into box and twist it slightly so the splines all mate up. There's 2 sets of splines you need to mate up and the oil pump shaft only goes in one way! What a nightmare!


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#11 Jimbo

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Posted 13 March 2016 - 02:17 PM

I figured it out!!

Used a bit of wire coathanger with a hook on the end to retrieve the oil pump shaft. Out she came!

Once that's out, you join it up with the TC then slide it back it. Bit of a wiggle and a twist and hey presto! She's home where she needs to be. Stoked.

Still need a circlip and an oil seal though. Emailed Docklands Subaru (they have been helping me out with a few parts, great service). Managed to scrounge around the interwebs and found the relevant part numbers.

Hopefully they have them in stock as I'm sure they would be a throw away item during tranny servicing. 

While browsing eBay, bought a new IC coupler as mine was looking shite!

Progress!


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#12 Robbks

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Posted 16 March 2016 - 08:23 AM

OT, Have you changed out the crappy plastic Turbo to TMIC pipes yet?
They were a big improvement on mine. and Huge restriction to the primary.

I had a boost gauge plumbed into the turbo outlet and it would push over 20psi before the manifold was up to 15psi



#13 Jimbo

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Posted 16 March 2016 - 10:14 PM

Yeah did that on the Gen2, will do on this aswell when I find a set of black ones cheap enough!

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