also check the suby-specific things, like:
- center diff. Do some tight circles and make sure there's no binding or clunking (this'll also check the CV's)
- have a peer underneath and make sure all the CV boots (front and rear) and steering rack boots are in good nick -- also look for oil leaks while you're there.
- As Jim says - any clunks or noises as you start/stop/turn.
- gear shift may be sloppy -- that's just shift bushes, easy fix. Check for crunchy synchros (pretty typical), any whining or clicking noises may indicate bearings or teeth on their way out. They're not the smoothest shifting boxes around.
- timing belt and water pump *should* have been done at 100k. No biggie if it hasn't, it may (or may not) suggest an owner with slack maintenance regime. Typically, people sell around 100k because they don't want the expense of the TB change (something like $1000 if you get a mech to do it)
- check coolant is correct and clean. Look for any evidence of corrosion or gunk in the overflow bottle. Make sure the heater works ok. Ditto the A/C.
- check tyres are all the same - and roughly the same wear -- mismatched tyres are bad for the center viscous diffand can kill it. Look for any odd wear patterns (inner or outer edge) - may indicate worn bushes.
For maintenance:
- don't bother changing the clutch till you need to pull the donk for something else, or it starts to slip. I got 250k out of my outback clutch, and it was still going strong when I changed it.
- give it a good dose or two of Upper Engine Cleaner (do a search).