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Bennie's RS wagz

RS wagon

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#41 motoboy76

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Posted 18 October 2016 - 01:21 PM

Nice update Bennie...

 

Let me know how you with the globes as this something I would like to do soon....



#42 El_Freddo

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Posted 29 October 2016 - 08:00 PM

Globes I'm thinking a trip to Jaycar will be the go.  I didn't identify the opportunity I had last Friday so that was wasted :(

 

Update: Engine is still at the shop, but I should be picking it up Monday.  That'll be an exciting moment.

 

Other stuff happening - I've decided it's time to pull the dead engine, then strip that down to find out what the nasty noise is.  My bet is on cylinder 1 or 2 (front driver's side) having a gudgeon pin issue or ring landing issues.  I'm leaning more towards gudgeon pin issue though.

 

I'd probably have the engine out right now if it wasn't for this little :fork: 'er:

 

ORecKw.jpg

 

I've got the right sized allen key, but just can't crack the plug.  I'm thinking someone's done a number with some locktite on this plug.  Any suggestions other than heat (as I don't have any heat gun).  I've levered on it good and proper, tried an extension tube but can't really get it on properly due to the angle the allen key is on.  I feel that if I have a real go at it with the extension tube I'm either going to strip the plug or break my tool.

 

So the filthy (and I mean really filthy!) engine bay looks like this:

 

16ejtm.jpg

 

Another interesting thing I found - WAIC with a puddle of oil. This gives a good indication to the health of this engine!

 

CPxMBc.jpg

 

I'm looking forward to pulling the driver's side head off to find out what's wrong with it.  The bottom end seems good when it's running, the noise is IN the cylinder, not in the centre of the block like a big end.

 
And still no luck on the WAIC pump seal - if anyone has any leads I'd be more than appreciative to know about them!
 

Cheers

Bennie


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#43 El_Freddo

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Posted 29 October 2016 - 11:13 PM

While out "shutting the shed" for the night I managed to crack that plug with the use of the RS's weight - I put the Allen Key on a different angle, jacked the front end up a bit then put a jack stand under the Allen Key end.  Then just dropped the jack and hoped for the best.  If it didn't pop and the Allen key didn't break I would've left it over night.

 

So the clutch pin is out - hopefully that'll mean engine out after breakfast :D

 

Cheers

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#44 El_Freddo

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Posted 15 November 2016 - 08:30 PM

Nothing stuffs up your engine build like this:

 

hdUfhZ.jpg

 

So pissed to say the least!  When the block is orientated correctly this is located on the high side of the cylinder, no where near where water can accumulate.  My guess is that it's some impurity from the factory.  The builders tried to "chase" it out when they bored the block, now they're out of piston options so this block at this time is currently a write off.  I might make a coffee table from it...

 

Now to assess where I'm at and go from there.  Looks like I'll have to dig a block out of the shed that I had other plans for.  It also doesn't look like I'll have this on the road before xmas.

 

  :dash2:   :dash2:   :dash2:   :dash2:

 

Bennie


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#45 motoboy76

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Posted 16 November 2016 - 09:18 AM

Shattering news Bennie.....

#46 CRUISN

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Posted 16 November 2016 - 04:39 PM

My mates selling a 355 stroker, new build with 700hp?

OEM+


#47 Robert

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Posted 16 November 2016 - 08:06 PM

:(

Crate ej207 fixes all

#48 El_Freddo

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Posted 16 November 2016 - 09:44 PM

My mates selling a 355 stroker, new build with 700hp?

 

 

:(

Crate ej207 fixes all

 

Settle down fellas!!  I'm no money bags McGee!  This is meant to be a build with the aim of a solid engine for piece of mind and "hassle free" enjoyment...

 

Shattering news Bennie.....

 

Yeah not happy, but what can you do??

 

I think I'll sit on it for a little bit, think about the next move and go from there.  

I'll just have to practice some patience :(

 

Cheers

Bennie


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#49 Robert

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Posted 16 November 2016 - 10:58 PM

Not sure what the Rs donk was going to cost you, probably find the price wouldn't be that different.

But new 207's can. Be had for ~2k bolt your heads on with a full gasket kit and all the other bits you already have
Probably wouldn't be much more than 3-3.5k all done an dusted.

#50 Barbbachello

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Posted 16 November 2016 - 11:51 PM

Id just find a MY98 or earlier WRX engine. Should be able to find one for 1k or so. Slap your intake manifold and stuff to it and job done


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#51 Adam

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Posted 17 November 2016 - 06:26 AM

+1 for wrx

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#52 El_Freddo

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Posted 18 November 2016 - 09:22 PM

Thanks for the gentle persuasion fellas.

 

My build is about stock - stock block, stock heads.  Yes it's foreign to you no doubt!  

 

Thinking I'll build a good engine from two I've got and get it on the road to begin with - then go from there with the engine build up.

 

Only things to consider are:

 

- put the 12mm rotor oil pump on this engine or run the standard 10mm one?

- keep the APR studs for the fresh build or *cough* re-use the not over heated head bolts *cough*

- time involved in this work to swap a crank and rods

- OR just wait until I can rebuild a different block with an ex-subaru mechanic in the new year (I can't wait that long I reckon!) then get it registered.

 

Depending on what we actually do tomorrow, if we're at home I'm hoping to push her out of the shed and give her engine bay a good clean up from all the muck and grime in there!  While she's out I'll dig out the blocks to work on - one's got a spun bearing, the other blow by issues of some sort...

 

That's where I'm at.  Head is a little all over the place - one day it's wait for the rebuild, the next it's build from two for one decent runner.

 

Reading other posts on RS liberty club's forum it got me thinking as to how others drive their boosted rides - this is new to me and with Ruby Scoo I love giving her a boot full at least once a week (WOT at 4000 RPM and up gets a wicked growl through the snorkel!) - but rarely sees over 5.5g rpm.  Reading posts about a boosted EJ22 NA block and "don't rev it over 6000rpm" got me thinking about how others drive their turbos.  It's probably something to be experienced to understand rather than something to be described...

 

Cheers

Bennie


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#53 Adam

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Posted 18 November 2016 - 09:28 PM

I hit the WOT daily :P

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#54 GNGBNG

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Posted 18 November 2016 - 10:48 PM

I don't like to rev mine past 6,500 as you can drop it into the next gear and be right back into the power/torque range (this being on the track)
I still run the original engine/turbo/gearbox with 275,000kms on it.
I do change my oil every 6 months, and my car is lucky to do 3,500kms a year, hopefully it will hold together.
I do drive it hard, but smooth as well.

#55 Robert

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Posted 19 November 2016 - 02:42 PM

The oem head bolts aren't reusable iirc

Would get new bolts or just use the studs

#56 Barbbachello

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Posted 19 November 2016 - 02:49 PM

The oem head bolts aren't reusable iirc

Would get new bolts or just use the studs

They are to a degree. Reused my 25D ones just fine. But if you want it to be reliable and work forever i wouldnt. Not when new bolts/arp studs are so affordable


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#57 El_Freddo

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Posted 20 November 2016 - 12:03 PM

Ruby Scoo (my L series with EJ22) is running on her original studs with new gaskets from two or three years ago no problem.  Those studs have seen the block frozen (long story!) and 120*C in soft sand while pulling 4G in low first then finally saw the engine run pretty hot when the gasket(s) finally let go.
I haven't had a problem with them yet.

 

The Gen3 RX that I just did the HGs on was done with the old bolts due to not being replaced for over-heating issues.  Early days on this one but time will tell.

 

The RS, I just want an engine to get it registered and drive while I build up the fresh one...  So second hand, not cooked bolts will do the job.  This short term engine will be rebuilt at some point for another project so I'm not keen to throw money at it right now.

 

It's all fun and games though.  The reuse trick might not go down so well on a boosted engine.

 

Cheers

Bennie


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#58 Miguel

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Posted 23 November 2016 - 05:59 AM

Its like $70 for a set of bolts through PartSouq

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#59 El_Freddo

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Posted 30 June 2018 - 10:42 PM

Well this hasn't had a thing done on it since the last post :(

I've had several thoughts on getting this engine sorted - first one is to retrieve it from the paddock it's currently stored in since feb.

So the actual engine thoughts are/were as follows:

1/ slap RS heads on an ej22 NA block - could have an issue with registration due to the change in engine size not being a factory option and I really don't want to engineer this change

2/ wait to get the funds and find the effort to completely build the engine with another block

3/ strip down the engine that came in it (I think it's an EJ20H from a twin turbo - passenger side head has the turbo oil return hammered flat), swap out the crank and rods for a set from an ej20 NA of around the same era. And slap in some new rings while I'm there.

I didn't realise I hadn't updated on this engine that came in it with that knocking in the head. It turns out it had such a dead big end bearing that there was no knock at the big end, it was in the head due to the piston smacking the head from the slop of the effectively missing bearing that was found in the sump. So it was a very "interesting" find.

This crank, rods and rings swap seems to be the cheapest option and possibly a bit of a gamble, but it'd be nice to move it under it's own steam at the very least. I do plan on measuring the bores and pistons for correct tolerances and check the bores for roundness. And if the donor crank and rods are good this thing will go together not a problem. It won't be what I wanted in the beginning but it'll be a goer which is better than what can be said for it atm.

Aside from the engine I've still got to sort out the lights in the instrument cluster (may have got a lead on some replacements after having done some replacements in my wife's VT), replace a rear cv boot, sort out a seal for the WAIC pump or shove a replacement pump in there and find/buy some new intake hoses pre and post turbo - I'm still a little confused as to which kit will work with this and which would be best to go with. Any leads would be appreciated.

Then after all of this, work out how/where this fits in with our current line up of vehicles - the VT is the rock (I'm expecting HGs to be the next big thing on this one, even so, it's a keeper for us), Ruby Scoo is the off-roader and occasional use vehicle then there's the brumby that's my daily. The RS will probably end up on club reg - need to find a club (shouldn't be hard in Benders). With the brumby I didn't think when I got the personalised plates, I'm reluctant to put it on club rego too as I can't take the plates over to club rego ;(

So a lot of thinking is happening behind the scenes, I'm hoping to see some action on this before the end of the month. I've said similar with this before... Hopefully it happens this time - I want to be driving it for it's third house move with us!

Thoughts? I don't want to hear about create engines or ej207s - I've effectively got 99% of the parts to do option 1 or 3. The other work needs the be done regardless of the engine...

Cheers

Bennie
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#60 Barbbachello

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Posted 01 July 2018 - 06:27 PM

2.2 is an option for a gen 1 (GX) so engineer/vicroads wont care. People over think this, its about the chassis as a whole not just an RS turbo.

 

However the compression will be rather high and valves will possibly meet pistons. Rocker arm heads are funny like this.

Crank and rods could work. 2L cranks are all the same assuming you get a pre 99 one and 2L rods are same same turbo or NA.

If your budget is around 1k someone will have a stock 20G you can jam in and avoid cracking a block open.


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