Jump to content


Photo

Joel's BRZ

#becauseracecar

  • Please log in to reply
270 replies to this topic

#221 El_Freddo

El_Freddo

    Rock'n the old Skool

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,491 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Bendigo/Benders/Central Vic/part nomad
  • Interests:Subarus, 4wd'n Subarus, travelling Subarus, Tinkering... I could go on!

Posted 03 April 2019 - 07:10 PM

I’ve just realised (maybe) that your shell is a left hand drive unit. Looking at the firewall it looks like there’s a mount point for the brake booster on the lhs of the vehicle but no corresponding mount on the rhs, where you’ll be sitting.

All that said, and if it is the case, you’ll probably be tieing in a more suitable mount point for the master cylinder (and booster?) anyway. I’m interested to know if the shell is LHD (can’t remember if you e already said it before and if you’re doing a better, more structurally sound mount for the brake booster/master cylinder.

Cheers

Bennie
"The lounge room is not a workshop..."
https://www.imageshack.us/i/po1BKrxbj
1BKrxb.jpg
El Freddo's Pics    -    El_Freddo's youtube

#222 JDWhiteWRX

JDWhiteWRX

    Regular Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 440 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Royal National Park, NSW

Posted 03 April 2019 - 07:51 PM

Yes it is a LHD shell, you have a keen eye Bennie. This is something I've known all along though, the car will have a floor mounted pedalbox and no brake booster so it makes no difference in the end.

 

Joel.


Follow me on Insta: @brzdiy


#223 El_Freddo

El_Freddo

    Rock'n the old Skool

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,491 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Bendigo/Benders/Central Vic/part nomad
  • Interests:Subarus, 4wd'n Subarus, travelling Subarus, Tinkering... I could go on!

Posted 03 April 2019 - 08:00 PM

Yes it is a LHD shell, you have a keen eye Bennie. This is something I've known all along though, the car will have a floor mounted pedalbox and no brake booster so it makes no difference in the end.
 
Joel.


Hehehe... ironic that a LHD shell ends up with a LHD rack for a RHD setup.

I thought you’d use some other sort of mount system to get the best driver position in the vehicle.

Cheers

Bennie
"The lounge room is not a workshop..."
https://www.imageshack.us/i/po1BKrxbj
1BKrxb.jpg
El Freddo's Pics    -    El_Freddo's youtube

#224 JDWhiteWRX

JDWhiteWRX

    Regular Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 440 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Royal National Park, NSW

Posted 03 April 2019 - 09:37 PM

Real race cars don't use brake boosters or ABS, well there is a motorsport ABS that costs a fortune but most just go with dual master cylinders with a balance bar.


Follow me on Insta: @brzdiy


#225 Barbbachello

Barbbachello

    Touring Bruce

  • SubyClub Area Rep
  • PipPipPip
  • 5,864 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Mehico
  • Interests:Docking

Posted 04 April 2019 - 11:23 AM

Yeah right, never noticed it being LHD. Awesome work as usual


tIeW8DE.png


#226 JDWhiteWRX

JDWhiteWRX

    Regular Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 440 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Royal National Park, NSW

Posted 07 April 2019 - 05:31 PM

I got some more work done on the car today.
 
Started by converting my multi-process welder over to MIG since you can never really get all the seems clean enough for TIG when welding to the chassis. 
 
46638649405_4f8b3334dd_b.jpg
 
I had to use a little CAD to make up this piece to re-strengthen the location of the front upper control arm mount.
 
46830512174_f1651a641f_b.jpg[/url]
 
This is after welding the small piece in and cleaning up my welds with the grinder.
 
46830502664_0d9b73d8da_b.jpg
 
Then I just went ahead and welded the mounts into the chassis. My MIG welding skills are not great and the majority of the welds look like pigeon poo but I am confident they are plenty strong enough as I usually run it a little hot.
 
46638648025_7c6e778d91_b.jpg
 
After some minor cleanup with the grinder I gave them a coat of cold-gal.
 
40588131573_c10de76ae5_b.jpg
 
So one side is now complete and I need to spin the whole shell around to do the other side.

Follow me on Insta: @brzdiy


#227 El_Freddo

El_Freddo

    Rock'n the old Skool

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,491 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Bendigo/Benders/Central Vic/part nomad
  • Interests:Subarus, 4wd'n Subarus, travelling Subarus, Tinkering... I could go on!

Posted 07 April 2019 - 08:58 PM

I found when the MIG was doing the chicken shit weld it would do better with more amps and faster movement (from memory, it’s been a number of years since I did this sort of work on my car). The other trick is to experiment with some scrap bodywork metal and the metal you’re welding in place to see what works best - but I’m sure I’m already telling you stuff you already know and practice. I always thought that MIG was easier than TIG - your TIG welds look mint and your consistency in your welds shows your confidence and ability in this skill.

Keep up the good work!

And thanks for the update.

Cheers

Bennie
"The lounge room is not a workshop..."
https://www.imageshack.us/i/po1BKrxbj
1BKrxb.jpg
El Freddo's Pics    -    El_Freddo's youtube

#228 JDWhiteWRX

JDWhiteWRX

    Regular Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 440 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Royal National Park, NSW

Posted 08 April 2019 - 08:37 AM

I don't think my settings are a problem its more technique and limited practice. My MIG welder is Synergic so you just enter the wire size and set the voltage based on a chart for your metal thickness and it sets the perfect amps and wire speed for you.
I always run a few test beads on some scrap before I touch the car to make sure it looks good but then when I get to the car its always much more difficult than running a straight bead on a piece of scrap.

I find TIG much easier, there are no sparks, vision is better, its a very controlled process.

Follow me on Insta: @brzdiy


#229 Barbbachello

Barbbachello

    Touring Bruce

  • SubyClub Area Rep
  • PipPipPip
  • 5,864 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Mehico
  • Interests:Docking

Posted 08 April 2019 - 08:45 AM

Love the Bad Obsession sticker and the CAD reference haha


tIeW8DE.png


#230 JDWhiteWRX

JDWhiteWRX

    Regular Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 440 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Royal National Park, NSW

Posted 14 April 2019 - 07:16 PM

I got the shell up on my vehicle positioning jacks today and spun it around so I could work on the passenger side double wishbone conversion.
 
47604691481_1b0eda8fcb_b.jpg
 
The drivers side took a lot longer because I was kind of figuring out how much metal to remove as I was going. With the passenger side I was just copying so I chopped it all out rather quickly, still a days work though.
 
32662112437_cf1c7defb5_b.jpg

Follow me on Insta: @brzdiy


#231 JDWhiteWRX

JDWhiteWRX

    Regular Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 440 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Royal National Park, NSW

Posted 22 April 2019 - 05:45 PM

I've spent the past 2 days working on the passenger side upper control arm mounts.
 
Many hours were spent making sure the passenger side mount location exactly matched the driver's side.
 
46941440144_8b90032be4_b.jpg
 
Once again my MIG welds look a bit shit but a slight improvement on the other side. I think my main issue is I can't really see the puddle, possibly my auto-darkening helmet settings are way off.
 
46941440064_4d321ff22d_b.jpg
 
I have placed a large online order of rod ends and spherical bearings and tomorrow I will be picking up some more steel tube to start building the control arms.

Follow me on Insta: @brzdiy


#232 El_Freddo

El_Freddo

    Rock'n the old Skool

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,491 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Bendigo/Benders/Central Vic/part nomad
  • Interests:Subarus, 4wd'n Subarus, travelling Subarus, Tinkering... I could go on!

Posted 22 April 2019 - 09:17 PM

Nice work! How do you get the cuts parallel to the rails so straight and tight in the corners?

There’s not much left of the front end! Will all of this be tied into the cage once the time comes for that step?

I bet you’re feeling good about this build! It’s coming along very well!!

Cheers

Bennie
"The lounge room is not a workshop..."
https://www.imageshack.us/i/po1BKrxbj
1BKrxb.jpg
El Freddo's Pics    -    El_Freddo's youtube

#233 JDWhiteWRX

JDWhiteWRX

    Regular Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 440 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Royal National Park, NSW

Posted 22 April 2019 - 09:30 PM

Nice work! How do you get the cuts parallel to the rails so straight and tight in the corners?

There’s not much left of the front end! Will all of this be tied into the cage once the time comes for that step?

I bet you’re feeling good about this build! It’s coming along very well!!

Cheers

Bennie

 

Cheers Bennie,

 

I use an angle grinder as much as possible and then finish the cuts with a Dremel.

 

Yes the cage will come through the firewall and tie everything together. I would have removed a lot more but I need those bits to help me locate the panels for making the fiberglass molds.

 

I have to think a few steps ahead with everything, I can't make any molds until the car is on wheels and sitting at ride height so control arms are next and then I got to buy some wheels.

 

Joel.


Follow me on Insta: @brzdiy


#234 El_Freddo

El_Freddo

    Rock'n the old Skool

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,491 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Bendigo/Benders/Central Vic/part nomad
  • Interests:Subarus, 4wd'n Subarus, travelling Subarus, Tinkering... I could go on!

Posted 23 April 2019 - 07:47 PM

Sounds like an awesome game of chess “against” yourself!

Cheers

Bennie
"The lounge room is not a workshop..."
https://www.imageshack.us/i/po1BKrxbj
1BKrxb.jpg
El Freddo's Pics    -    El_Freddo's youtube

#235 JDWhiteWRX

JDWhiteWRX

    Regular Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 440 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Royal National Park, NSW

Posted 24 April 2019 - 07:14 PM

Yesterday I went and picked up some more 1.5" roll cage tube as I had almost ran out and there is still a lot more to be done. I also picked up some 1.25" tube to make the front control arms and modify the factory rear arms so they are adjustable and no longer contain rubber bushings.
 
In other news my order of rod ends and associated parts has arrived so I pretty much have everything I need to get started. The only but missing is some 4140 chrome-moly solid bar that will be turned down on a lathe by a friend of mine to make uniball tapered adapters to replace the factory ball joints in the front knuckles and studs in the rear upper control arms.
 
This is the full order, its enough to do the whole car. They are all racing series ultra high performance chrome-moly steel rod ends with a Teflon/Kevlar liner.
 
40719156423_27eea01795_b.jpg
 
This shot shows the 1.25" DOM tube with a weld in bung and 5/8" rod end. Everything will be adjustable.
 
40719156383_a6e9ee91d3_b.jpg

Follow me on Insta: @brzdiy


#236 allpaw4

allpaw4

    Chief Sparky

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,486 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Ballarat
  • Interests:Cars, Stereos, Electrical, House Renos

Posted 25 April 2019 - 08:00 AM

Holy crap. This is insane, just when you think something can't be done easily, someone comes out and does it, and better yet, documents it all.

I spent several hours last night and this morning reading this thread. Its awesome work, keep it up man.

Cheers,
Ben

MY02 Blue B4, aka 'The Project' - v8 Spec C engine package and assorted other 'goodies' - Sold, then bought back for parts. In process of stripping.

MY97 Silver RX, aka 'The Track Toy' - All good bits from B4 will find their way into this...
MY03 Holden Commodore - Daily. Because good on fuel.


#237 JDWhiteWRX

JDWhiteWRX

    Regular Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 440 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Royal National Park, NSW

Posted 04 May 2019 - 09:44 PM

I have officially started making my control arms today, starting with the rear trailing arms.
 
I started by making a simple welding jig with some scrap metal.
 
40804754163_75b99f8eb7_b.jpg
 
Then I cut the OEM arms at the kink. I no longer need the kink as I have lowered the trailing arm pickup point similar to what the MCA Suspension "traction mod" does. Also this car will run much less droop travel than a road going car.
 
40804754183_7f380fdbfc_b.jpg
 
The jig keeps the original length but I have adjusted the rod end so that I can mostly lengthen the link as this is most likely what will be needed as I adjust camber.
 
40804754133_e61785b155_b.jpg
 
Then I cut some tube to fill the gap and trimmed part of the OEM arm so the tube could slide in.
 
47718511012_241f7ffaf8_b.jpg
 
Here it is after welding, you can see I also boxed in the lower part for some extra strength.
 
46854515325_78f7cd56c3_b.jpg
 
Side detail
 
46854515375_82ce9f1f39_b.jpg
 
Then I quick clean up with the wire wheel and some cold gal primer.
 
40804755013_08a67564db_b.jpg
 
These arms ended up being 230 grams heavier than the originals and cost about $50 AUD to make.

Follow me on Insta: @brzdiy


#238 Barbbachello

Barbbachello

    Touring Bruce

  • SubyClub Area Rep
  • PipPipPip
  • 5,864 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Mehico
  • Interests:Docking

Posted 06 May 2019 - 11:07 AM

Awesome work as usual


tIeW8DE.png


#239 crjohnson

crjohnson

    Trusted Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 146 posts

Posted 08 May 2019 - 08:17 AM

Nice Work! Where did you buy the rod ends from?



#240 JDWhiteWRX

JDWhiteWRX

    Regular Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 440 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Royal National Park, NSW

Posted 08 May 2019 - 04:34 PM

Nice Work! Where did you buy the rod ends from?

 

Thanks, McGill Motorsports in the UK.


Follow me on Insta: @brzdiy





0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users