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#41 Ordex

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Posted 10 January 2019 - 06:09 AM

I couldn't find a torque figure for the TT manifold to block bolts. 25Nm seemed to be the figure for every other EJ of the same era, and it's what's listed in the Haynes manual for 3rd gen Legacy, so that's what I went with.

 

When I was torquing mine up one seemed to be taking more turns than the rest. Backed it out and found the bolt stretched out and about to snap in half! What a pain that would be!!!



#42 Josh18

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Posted 11 January 2019 - 04:12 PM

Nice work fixing up your manifold, it looks great!

If you still have it out could you please take a pic of the how the factory fuel rail and pressure regulator is set up?

Cheers

Josh



#43 Chaapppppp

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Posted 11 January 2019 - 04:15 PM

Got mine from Subaru dealer, oem is best seeing as gates has sold out to China, continue with your story, very interesting

#44 podmak

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Posted 14 January 2019 - 11:45 PM

Nice work fixing up your manifold, it looks great!
If you still have it out could you please take a pic of the how the factory fuel rail and pressure regulator is set up?
Cheers
Josh

I didn't read it early enough. I literally bolted the manifold to the block and then checked the forums. See if these will help you:

Attached Files


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#45 podmak

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Posted 14 January 2019 - 11:55 PM

And to get some sort of a closure, the idling fluctuation is still present.

I put the manifold back on, and there is no change in the idle. Still goes up and down.

I only bought 3m of vacuum tubing, and that wasn't enough to replace ALL of the plumbing around the engine bay. So I just did the ones that were unreachable with the manifold on and then "hurried" starting the engine.

Naturally, I plugged the coils in the other way and killed a battery cranking, but on the bright side, I shocked myself with the fact that there were no leftover bolts after the procedure. I don't think it ever happened to me before...

With that said, I think I am going to finish the job and replace ALL of them vacuum tubes, and then get to that timing. I saw another thread somewhere in twin section where there was a man with surging idle, did the timing belt with all the pulleys and got it sorted.

I think I tried everything else, what's another 500 bucks... (that's sarcasm btw.)

Also I discovered oil drop on the bottom of my oil filter. That will be the camshaft seal not the head gasket... right?

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#46 Chaapppppp

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Posted 15 January 2019 - 09:14 AM

That was me with the surging/low idle, doing timing did sort the idle out, still surges a little when warming her up but doesn't bother me to much. Next thing on the list to do is the PCV valve. It used to stall out at the lights which was really annoying, oil drip on filter could be cam seals or oil pump im guessing, have fun!

#47 duncanm

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Posted 15 January 2019 - 09:17 AM

Could also be oil cooler seal... Clean her up and then inspect after a while

#48 Chaapppppp

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Posted 15 January 2019 - 12:01 PM

Yeah true, my model doesn't have one

#49 podmak

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Posted 16 January 2019 - 07:04 AM

Thanks for the ideas. I will put them on my list.

I got 4 new CEL codes after the intake was put back on. I suspect these to be a result of bad contact after re-connecting the plugs. Well that's the theory anyway; 

 

The CEL comes on when I start the engine, and doesn't go away, so there is definitely something disconnected...

12 - Starter switch or circuit.
24 - Air control valve or circuit.
44 - Waste gate duty solenoid (turbo).
68 - Exhaust valve duty solenoid.

With the intake being off for so long - almost 5 weeks - is it safe to assume the ECU would have been reset to factory default ? 

 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~I found this on nasioc.com in regards to CEL 24 & 44 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

From <https://forums.nasio...d.php?t=2125765>

With OBD I Subies, the only reason that a sensor would trip a code would be the following:

1. Sensor is disconnected.

2. Sensor is not receiving power or is not grounded properly.

3. The sensor itself is shot to the point it cannot communicate with the ECU.

 

Code 24 would be for the Idle Air Control Valve. Is your idle funny in anyway, like does it go up and down or is it low or high? (This sounds familiar...)

 

Code 44, as you have said is for the wastegate duty solenoid.

 

First things first, check and make sure the connectors are plugged in.

 

If they are plugged in and you know how to use a multimeter and a testlight, test for power to the sensors using the testlight and test to make sure that the sensors are being properly grounded.

 

If everything tests out then your sensors themselves are most likely messed up beyond all recognition.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


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#50 duncanm

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Posted 16 January 2019 - 12:52 PM

12 - Starter switch or circuit.
24 - Air control valve or circuit.
44 - Waste gate duty solenoid (turbo).
68 - Exhaust valve duty solenoid.

 

 at least 2/4 of those codes are to do with solenoids in the BBOD.  Check your wiring to that.\

 

and 24 (IACV code) will probably lead to bad idle, from http://www.4bc.org/vanagon/codes.html ()but I don't know if its true.,.)

 

Code 24

With the IAC code 24 thrown, the ECU will use what is called 'fuel cut' to reduce excessive engine RPM. It turns off 1 or 2 injectors to maintain idle speed, for certain values of RPM, vehicle speed, and throttle position. This can result in a rough idle, and poor idle exhaust emissions values. 


#51 podmak

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Posted 17 January 2019 - 01:45 PM

I didn't transfer the little choke pill over to the new plumbing when I did the primary turbo vacuums... 

I went through the rubbish bin and got all of them old vacuum lines back out this morning.

...

 

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#52 podmak

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Posted 17 January 2019 - 03:39 PM

I couldn't find a torque figure for the TT manifold to block bolts. 25Nm seemed to be the figure for every other EJ of the same era, and it's what's listed in the Haynes manual for 3rd gen Legacy, so that's what I went with.

 

When I was torquing mine up one seemed to be taking more turns than the rest. Backed it out and found the bolt stretched out and about to snap in half! What a pain that would be!!!

This turned out to work just fine. Thank you. 


gallery_5378_147_9927.png


#53 podmak

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Posted 17 January 2019 - 10:00 PM

  

12 - Starter switch or circuit.
24 - Air control valve or circuit.
44 - Waste gate duty solenoid (turbo).
68 - Exhaust valve duty solenoid.
 
 at least 2/4 of those codes are to do with solenoids in the BBOD.  Check your wiring to that.\
 
and 24 (IACV code) will probably lead to bad idle, from http://www.4bc.org/vanagon/codes.html ()but I don't know if its true.,.)
 
Code 24
With the IAC code 24 thrown, the ECU will use what is called 'fuel cut' to reduce excessive engine RPM. It turns off 1 or 2 injectors to maintain idle speed, for certain values of RPM, vehicle speed, and throttle position. This can result in a rough idle, and poor idle exhaust emissions values. 

This BBOD - it's now my #1 to-do.Thank you, again.

gallery_5378_147_9927.png


#54 podmak

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Posted 17 January 2019 - 10:15 PM

It's probably worth mentioning:

Last night, I took it for a ride to local store. Stepped on it (restrictor pill still out, CEL still on) and the secondary turbo didn't come on. Instead, something clicked and the CEL went away. Boost returned after releasing and reapplying pressure on the accelerator. Didn't get a chance to go as fast as to get the secondary turbo to kick in since.

Today, I reinstalled the restrictor pill. I drove the car quite a bit. No CEL. I cleared the codes, and none came back yet. Still didn't have a chance for the twin turbo operation to kick in. But no CEL at all.

While I had the manifold off, I replaced the knock sensor with a genuine Subaru part.

Next step is to finish all of the vacuum lineage, and most importantly clean all the shit from BBOD - mercilessly replace all of the vacuum lines, even if they look ok. I am loosing it, mate...

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#55 El_Freddo

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Posted 17 January 2019 - 10:19 PM

I am loosing it, mate...


No, it seems like you’re starting to win the battle ;)

Keep up the good work and it’ll pay off!!

Cheers

Bennie
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#56 duncanm

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Posted 18 January 2019 - 04:48 AM

Thing to do with the BBOD is check all the solenoids are working with a battery and blow through them with some carb cleaner.

Clean or replace all vac lines but be very careful not to lose the one or two pills in there.

#57 Chaapppppp

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Posted 18 January 2019 - 08:43 AM

Persiver mate, you will get there👍

#58 podmak

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Posted 22 January 2019 - 12:13 PM

Finished refurbishing the BBOD... I forgot what the abbreviation actually stands for. I also tried looking it up online, but if someone can please educate me. 

And I checked all of the solenoids inside the BBOD, ran some brake cleaner through them, then changed their state with a 12V and ran some brake cleaner through their other passages... Except the big one in there - now that I am writing the post, I realize that it was decently dumb, having it all disassembled but not actually checking the biggest one. And it's because I was lazy getting it out and playing around with it. Lesson to be learned here, hopefully future me will remember. 

 

On the brighter side, the boost is back. (Like, it's allways been there, just not so obvious; The third gear is especially fun to drive in.)

Even the twin turbo operation comes on, except sometimes it doesn't, especially when driving uphill.

The idle rpm still fluctuates, but doesn't go as high as it used to. Which is mildly annoying after all this time. 

 

 

Attached File  b9fa3a54-a289-4e1f-a428-ebc616aeb60e.jpg   22.88KB   1 downloads
And it's throwing Error Code 66. When it goes into limp mode, after trying to bring the power going uphill... 


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#59 Chaapppppp

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Posted 22 January 2019 - 07:30 PM

Bbod: black box of death
🤗

#60 Josh18

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Posted 22 January 2019 - 10:37 PM

I cleaned my BBoD for the first time the other day and found my big solenoid in there (ECV duty solenoid I found out) was stuck. I found this out as it cam to life as I was spraying upper engine cleaner through the clicking solenoids. On my car at least, which is a very early GT you don't need a battery to click the solenoids, they all click with the green connectors connected and the ignition on but engine not running. The vacuum tank has enough reserve to keep them sucking when they click too, which I didn't expect. Also the boost control solenoid in the LH guard pulses quickly the whole time, which I only just learned is how the are supposed to work. Anyway as I was going from one solenoid to the next I heard a few random and quiet other clicks from the BBoD and at first I thought that's be right, I've somehow stuffed a solenoid or something, but slowly the big solenoid in the box, which I think is the same as the one in the guard fluttered to life and then kept pulsing from there out. It might be worth checking your car in this mode to see if they are cycling, they are quite loud and fast. Also, on my box, a lot of the solenoids are connected to each other by common lines and my big solenoid actually came to life just from the upper engine cleaner sprayed into the other solenoid lines.

My car goes much better now, with power delivery being very smooth and vod almost gone.

Also It probably wont help now but I only replaced the lines that were obviously bad, which was only one in the BBoD as I didn't want to break what was not broken and having the numbers on the hoses is so good for keeping track of everything.

Cheers






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