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the "there is something wrong with my car" thread


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#1 Blaeven

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Posted 28 August 2008 - 09:43 PM

Hey all... i'm sure you've all heard me bitching about things wrong with my car, so i'm starting this thread to put everything in one place... i know everyone has problems with their cars, but i figured if i posted all mine then someone might be able to shed some light on some of them I'm going to do my very best to be on my bestest behavior and accept any comments/criticisms about my car (or me)... also... i'll be graciously accepting advice without back answering... now... these are all problems that i believe can be fixed, in some cases i've included what i think might be the fix, i'm expecting to be corrected, so please do so if you deem in necessary: - the clutch is too heavy compared to any other car i've driven (a new spring on the clutch pedal perhaps??) - the gears very infrequently crunch when i change them (mainly first and mainly when i'm at a stand-still) - the gearstick is wobbly (need new linkage bushings?) - the brakes are spongy (despite being new pads and being bled both by me and by ultratune when they did my 200kkm service, however the wheel does wobble when i brake hard, so i think i can fix this my machining the rotors?) - the steering has a dead spot in the middle and jumps from side to side whenever i go over little undulations in the road (it has had a wheel alignment) - the rear shocks are bouncy (need to be replaced) - it sits too high (i will lower it soon, though i'm torn between wanting more cornering performance or just going for looks) - it uses too much petrol (running rich?) - it sounds like someone's doing a fart when i accelerate (also due to running rich??) - when i'm rolling down a hill (there are some steep hills near my mates place) in first or second, doing under 2k rpm, it pops and backfires... i took a video, i'll post it soon so you guys can hear... - it's too loud (i'm going to get another resonator put on soonish) ok... now, before you ask, here are the things i've done to it to try to remedy these problems: - cleaned the MAF with contact cleaner (also plan on trying to clean O2 sensor and IACV when able [man that thing is a b*tch to get to]) - had a major (200kkm) service done last fortnight - bought new shocks that turned out to be not very good (still looking for rear shocks) - run it on 98 RON, and 95 RON.... now i'm only gonna use 91, cos it's only getting 400 odd km to a tank, it seems stupid to waste expensive petrol - i replaced the brakes with Gen1 RS 2 pots (277mm) and new QBE (i think) pads. The rotors look to have a fair bit of meat left on them, so i'll probably get them machined soon (no i didn't machine them before i put them on... cos i'm an idiot... :( ) i can't think of anything else at the moment... if i think of more later i'll add stuff... i'll also add progress as i do more to remedy my problems... now, please... feel free to rip me to shreds...

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#2 Evil_VZ-T

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Posted 28 August 2008 - 10:04 PM

replace the gear linkage bushes, try a different gear oil. adjust the clutch pick up point. save and buy some STI struts that arnt f**ked. (yes that costs money) machine the rotors, both front and rear. check the rack for leaks, if so replace the whole rack as its cheaper. check for exhaust leaks, take off the whole system put new gaskets on and use gasket goo. check the vacuum line from the FPR to manifold, if disconnected the car will run maximum fuel pressure. reset ecu also a different spark plug heat range can affect fuel ecconomy Do it once, do it right. if you keep on doing it the dodge, it will fail again.
MY02 Liberty B4

#3 Blaeven

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Posted 28 August 2008 - 10:12 PM

check the vacuum line from the FPR to manifold, if disconnected the car will run maximum fuel pressure.

thanks heaps...

i don't have a haynes manual (perhaps a good investment)...

does anyone have a picture of which line this is??

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#4 Mav

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Posted 28 August 2008 - 10:14 PM

can i have a drive of it next meet? interested to see what your clutch is like...
current - 2006, Gen 4 - 3.0r - spec b, mods - Cusco Strut Brace, Cusco 23mm Rear Swaybar, Cusco BCS, JDM spec b Grille, 6000k HID Xenons, UltraWhite LED Parkers
former - 2000, Gen 3 - 2.5l RX Liberty, mods - Powerchip Gold 98, Borla extractors, Cat-back sports exhaust, Bilstein Suspension w/ Kings low's, Whiteline X\Heavy duty ADJ rear swaybar, Whiteline front Strut Brace, 6000k HID Xenons.

#5 Blaeven

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Posted 28 August 2008 - 10:15 PM

can i have a drive of it next meet? interested to see what your clutch is like...


not a problem... just remember... you break it, you bought it... ;)

to try to describe my clutch, it's like pushing on a rather hard bit of foam that doesn't spring back straight away and is hard to compress...

i get used to it... but as soon as i drive someone elses car i end up hating my clutch when i get back in my car...

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#6 Mav

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Posted 28 August 2008 - 10:19 PM

that clutch pedal would piss me off
current - 2006, Gen 4 - 3.0r - spec b, mods - Cusco Strut Brace, Cusco 23mm Rear Swaybar, Cusco BCS, JDM spec b Grille, 6000k HID Xenons, UltraWhite LED Parkers
former - 2000, Gen 3 - 2.5l RX Liberty, mods - Powerchip Gold 98, Borla extractors, Cat-back sports exhaust, Bilstein Suspension w/ Kings low's, Whiteline X\Heavy duty ADJ rear swaybar, Whiteline front Strut Brace, 6000k HID Xenons.

#7 Blaeven

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Posted 28 August 2008 - 10:24 PM

that clutch pedal would piss me off


yeh... i reeeeeeaeaaaaally want to fix it...

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#8 Evil_VZ-T

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Posted 28 August 2008 - 10:27 PM

Look at your engine.. on the drivers side rail towards the back of the motor you will see a small cylinder shape thing, Much like a wastegate actuator on a turbo. this is the fuel pressure regulator. there should be a line running off it going to the manifold.. find it and replace it just to be safe.
MY02 Liberty B4

#9 Blaeven

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Posted 28 August 2008 - 10:29 PM

Look at your engine.. on the drivers side rail towards the back of the motor you will see a small cylinder shape thing, Much like a wastegate actuator on a turbo.

this is the fuel pressure regulator. there should be a line running off it going to the manifold.. find it and replace it just to be safe.


where can i get hose to replace it? short of going to a wreckers??

clark rubber??

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#10 Evil_VZ-T

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Posted 28 August 2008 - 10:43 PM

Autobarn, supercheap auto. repco. its just basic vaccum hose. 30cm's would be plenty
MY02 Liberty B4

#11 Blaeven

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Posted 28 August 2008 - 11:04 PM

Autobarn, supercheap auto. repco.

its just basic vaccum hose. 30cm's would be plenty


thanks heaps

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#12 Soop

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Posted 28 August 2008 - 11:32 PM

Sounds like you need a new clutch mate. Try adjusting the cable (It is cable right?), but i think it is the Clutch its self. Popping through the exhaust is normal, mine does it all the time. The "Fart" sound when shifting gears is also pretty normal. Its just the pitch difference between the load differences on the engine. Basically, think of it as someone lifting weights. Strain on the way up, sigh on the way down ;)>
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#13 Scuba-Roo

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Posted 28 August 2008 - 11:36 PM

i'll have to try the vac hose thing cause mine doesnt get much more then 400-500km for tank im pretty sure if u google gen2 subaru manual or somthing you can find one in PDF form, or even ebay you can get it on cd. try get a geniune subaru one IMO their 10x better then a haynes manual, but their isnt anything wrong with a haynes manual... for the burble noise check ur exhuast for leaks as evil said, also do you have a pod filter or somthing other then stock intake? i know on my lib when i had a pod filter it burbled alot more! My problems were; gearbox but i fixed it, seems my clutch needed adjusting, woo saved me a gearbox, also ut fresh oil in steering rack needs new seals or replacing i guess, steering pump leaks oil so thats either seals or a new one? ahwell its all in good fun :D

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#14 Soop

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Posted 28 August 2008 - 11:44 PM

Jesus christ.
A leaking exhaust will be audible all the time. Not just when there is no load on the engine.

A pod filter wont make it back fire more. All pods will do is a low you to fit different intake setups. They offer no actually performance upgrade to an NA.

As for the fuel issue.
Try replacing the temperature sender.
If the car is running colder than it should be it wont run efficiently.

For the transmission:
Grinding gears can be due to,
A: A clutch that wont disengage fully. Re-adjust it.
B: Worn syncro's. Nothing you can do about it. Renew the gearbox oil, and see if that helps.

A Heavy pedal can be attributed to:
A: Worn clutch pressure plate and/or flywheel.
B:Stretched cable and/or low fluid levels in the reservoir.
TSM

#15 twinturbosubaru

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Posted 29 August 2008 - 12:09 AM

Soop hit it I reckon, only thing I would add is replace clutch and pressure plate if adjustment don't work, sounds to me like the pressure plate is a bit seized up and slowing your clutch action down which is in turn causing your synchros to get hit hard when going to first gear. Remember never ever ever ever put it into first gear while the car is moving, it will take teeth off that first gear synchro in no time at all, then you are screwed. Engine temps make a big difference to fuel economy, make sure top radiator hose is getting hot when running to ensure thermostat is opening correctly as well, make sure it doesn't get hot though until the engine is up to temp, if it's warming up the whole time the engine is warming up or the temp gauge takes a while to get up to normal your thermostat might be stuck open which will cause the engine to run too cool, use more fuel, and not run as well as it should. Paul
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#16 Pete S

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Posted 29 August 2008 - 07:25 AM

Jesus christ.
A leaking exhaust will be audible all the time. Not just when there is no load on the engine.


lol, I beg to differ, my o2 sensor is held in by a hose clamp at the moment. Fine for normal driving but when I hit's full boost it leaks like a tap. Sounds like an external gate :D love it.

Also my down pipe was leaking for around 6months but I could never tell, was wondering why it had an awesome spooling sound at low revs. But didn't sound like an exhaust leak at all. Machined the down pipe flange flat and it was all good.

#17 CRUISN

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Posted 29 August 2008 - 09:56 AM

i don't have a haynes manual (perhaps a good investment)...


A very inexpensive, invaluable investment. I used mine so much with the Liberty and Legacy.

I got mine for $20 off ebay. Get one!

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#18 Soop

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Posted 29 August 2008 - 04:57 PM

lol, I beg to differ, my o2 sensor is held in by a hose clamp at the moment. Fine for normal driving but when I hit's full boost it leaks like a tap. Sounds like an external gate :D love it.

Also my down pipe was leaking for around 6months but I could never tell, was wondering why it had an awesome spooling sound at low revs. But didn't sound like an exhaust leak at all. Machined the down pipe flange flat and it was all good.


All well and good.
But how does this relate at all to an NA car?
There is no dramatic change in exhaust volume or temperature.

The sound he is hearing is the different pitch depending on engine load.
Put a f*cking resonator under it and it will go away. Same with the popping while the engine is being overrun down hills.
TSM

#19 Blaeven

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Posted 29 August 2008 - 08:40 PM

Sounds like you need a new clutch mate.

Try adjusting the cable (It is cable right?), but i think it is the Clutch its self.

Popping through the exhaust is normal, mine does it all the time.
The "Fart" sound when shifting gears is also pretty normal. Its just the pitch difference between the load differences on the engine.
Basically, think of it as someone lifting weights.
Strain on the way up, sigh on the way down ;)>

i will adjust the clutch this weekend (yes it's cable clutch, though the engage point is pretty high up in the movement, i don't even need to push it half way to change gears without a noise [i don't do this regularly, just was seeing how far i needed to push it to change gears])... anyone got any pointers on how to do it...??

and the fart sound is when i'm on the power, it sounds like there is a leaf or something stuck in the pipe and it flaps around when i give it a boot full (or even half power)

i took it to an exhaust place and the guy there said that it's due to the car overfueling and i should put in a new O2 sensor, preferably wide band... (i thought they were more useful on turbo cars personally)


Jesus christ.
A leaking exhaust will be audible all the time. Not just when there is no load on the engine.

A pod filter wont make it back fire more. All pods will do is a low you to fit different intake setups. They offer no actually performance upgrade to an NA.

As for the fuel issue.
Try replacing the temperature sender.
If the car is running colder than it should be it wont run efficiently.

For the transmission:
Grinding gears can be due to,
A: A clutch that wont disengage fully. Re-adjust it.
B: Worn syncro's. Nothing you can do about it. Renew the gearbox oil, and see if that helps.

A Heavy pedal can be attributed to:
A: Worn clutch pressure plate and/or flywheel.
B:Stretched cable and/or low fluid levels in the reservoir.

i got under the car and revved it, i can't hear an exhaust leak anywhere so i think you're right about that, i don't think it's leaking...

i've heard about that temparature sender issue, duly noted as something i need to try doing when i get some fundage...

oh, and all the fluids and oils were changed when i had the service done...

that stretched cable thing sounds interesting... (i don't think it's low fluids as it's not hydraulic)

i'll let some people give it a feel at the next meet on wednesday... perhaps they can also help diagnose the problem...


Engine temps make a big difference to fuel economy, make sure top radiator hose is getting hot when running to ensure thermostat is opening correctly as well, make sure it doesn't get hot though until the engine is up to temp, if it's warming up the whole time the engine is warming up or the temp gauge takes a while to get up to normal your thermostat might be stuck open which will cause the engine to run too cool, use more fuel, and not run as well as it should.

i was having a problem with the thermostat (it was stuck open making the engine cool down when there was no load on it) before the service... i made them replace it as part of the service... i hoped that would fix my problem, but it didn't...

but it's helpful anyway, thanks...

Put a f*cking resonator under it and it will go away. Same with the popping while the engine is being overrun down hills.

all in good time paully... i'll be adding another resonator soon...

i need to make it quieter... cos it drones and pisses me off at the moment... redback mufflers FTL!

though i had attributed the popping to over fueling... thanks for giving me hope that it will stop when i fix my exhaust....




thanks everyone for your help and advice... please keep it coming... :D

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#20 SUBARU

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Posted 29 August 2008 - 09:59 PM

Hrrrmmmm... To check for an exhaust leak, shove a rag in the end of your muffler and get under the car, no need to rev it, you may not be able to hear it, but you've also got to feel for it. If you've been told you need a new sensor, why on earth wouldn't ouy get that fixed? It's probably the source of alot of issues. Bad O2 sensor will be ruining your engine, your performance and your economy, but will have not much to do with the sound of the exhaust. Pop and crackle and farty exhaust sounds won't be fixed until you put a resonator on it and a different muffler. Get rid of the muffler, it sounds cr@p. Get an MRT one, or Xforce or magnaflow, something that's nice and sublte and is tried and tested. What is your exhaust setup anyway? In terms of dimensions e.t.c.




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