the "there is something wrong with my car" thread
#1
Posted 28 August 2008 - 09:43 PM
#2
Posted 28 August 2008 - 10:04 PM
#3
Posted 28 August 2008 - 10:12 PM
thanks heaps...check the vacuum line from the FPR to manifold, if disconnected the car will run maximum fuel pressure.
i don't have a haynes manual (perhaps a good investment)...
does anyone have a picture of which line this is??
#4
Posted 28 August 2008 - 10:14 PM
former - 2000, Gen 3 - 2.5l RX Liberty, mods - Powerchip Gold 98, Borla extractors, Cat-back sports exhaust, Bilstein Suspension w/ Kings low's, Whiteline X\Heavy duty ADJ rear swaybar, Whiteline front Strut Brace, 6000k HID Xenons.
#5
Posted 28 August 2008 - 10:15 PM
can i have a drive of it next meet? interested to see what your clutch is like...
not a problem... just remember... you break it, you bought it...
to try to describe my clutch, it's like pushing on a rather hard bit of foam that doesn't spring back straight away and is hard to compress...
i get used to it... but as soon as i drive someone elses car i end up hating my clutch when i get back in my car...
#6
Posted 28 August 2008 - 10:19 PM
former - 2000, Gen 3 - 2.5l RX Liberty, mods - Powerchip Gold 98, Borla extractors, Cat-back sports exhaust, Bilstein Suspension w/ Kings low's, Whiteline X\Heavy duty ADJ rear swaybar, Whiteline front Strut Brace, 6000k HID Xenons.
#7
Posted 28 August 2008 - 10:24 PM
that clutch pedal would piss me off
yeh... i reeeeeeaeaaaaally want to fix it...
#8
Posted 28 August 2008 - 10:27 PM
#9
Posted 28 August 2008 - 10:29 PM
Look at your engine.. on the drivers side rail towards the back of the motor you will see a small cylinder shape thing, Much like a wastegate actuator on a turbo.
this is the fuel pressure regulator. there should be a line running off it going to the manifold.. find it and replace it just to be safe.
where can i get hose to replace it? short of going to a wreckers??
clark rubber??
#10
Posted 28 August 2008 - 10:43 PM
#11
Posted 28 August 2008 - 11:04 PM
Autobarn, supercheap auto. repco.
its just basic vaccum hose. 30cm's would be plenty
thanks heaps
#12
Posted 28 August 2008 - 11:32 PM
#13
Posted 28 August 2008 - 11:36 PM
Subyclub, The place where random internet weirdos become good mates
#14
Posted 28 August 2008 - 11:44 PM
A leaking exhaust will be audible all the time. Not just when there is no load on the engine.
A pod filter wont make it back fire more. All pods will do is a low you to fit different intake setups. They offer no actually performance upgrade to an NA.
As for the fuel issue.
Try replacing the temperature sender.
If the car is running colder than it should be it wont run efficiently.
For the transmission:
Grinding gears can be due to,
A: A clutch that wont disengage fully. Re-adjust it.
B: Worn syncro's. Nothing you can do about it. Renew the gearbox oil, and see if that helps.
A Heavy pedal can be attributed to:
A: Worn clutch pressure plate and/or flywheel.
B:Stretched cable and/or low fluid levels in the reservoir.
#15
Posted 29 August 2008 - 12:09 AM
GEN1 Red Mica RS Liberty - Stock factory original
Love is a Legacy, Liberty, etc......
#16
Posted 29 August 2008 - 07:25 AM
Jesus christ.
A leaking exhaust will be audible all the time. Not just when there is no load on the engine.
lol, I beg to differ, my o2 sensor is held in by a hose clamp at the moment. Fine for normal driving but when I hit's full boost it leaks like a tap. Sounds like an external gate love it.
Also my down pipe was leaking for around 6months but I could never tell, was wondering why it had an awesome spooling sound at low revs. But didn't sound like an exhaust leak at all. Machined the down pipe flange flat and it was all good.
#17
Posted 29 August 2008 - 09:56 AM
i don't have a haynes manual (perhaps a good investment)...
A very inexpensive, invaluable investment. I used mine so much with the Liberty and Legacy.
I got mine for $20 off ebay. Get one!
OEM+
#18
Posted 29 August 2008 - 04:57 PM
lol, I beg to differ, my o2 sensor is held in by a hose clamp at the moment. Fine for normal driving but when I hit's full boost it leaks like a tap. Sounds like an external gate love it.
Also my down pipe was leaking for around 6months but I could never tell, was wondering why it had an awesome spooling sound at low revs. But didn't sound like an exhaust leak at all. Machined the down pipe flange flat and it was all good.
All well and good.
But how does this relate at all to an NA car?
There is no dramatic change in exhaust volume or temperature.
The sound he is hearing is the different pitch depending on engine load.
Put a f*cking resonator under it and it will go away. Same with the popping while the engine is being overrun down hills.
#19
Posted 29 August 2008 - 08:40 PM
i will adjust the clutch this weekend (yes it's cable clutch, though the engage point is pretty high up in the movement, i don't even need to push it half way to change gears without a noise [i don't do this regularly, just was seeing how far i needed to push it to change gears])... anyone got any pointers on how to do it...??Sounds like you need a new clutch mate.
Try adjusting the cable (It is cable right?), but i think it is the Clutch its self.
Popping through the exhaust is normal, mine does it all the time.
The "Fart" sound when shifting gears is also pretty normal. Its just the pitch difference between the load differences on the engine.
Basically, think of it as someone lifting weights.
Strain on the way up, sigh on the way down >
and the fart sound is when i'm on the power, it sounds like there is a leaf or something stuck in the pipe and it flaps around when i give it a boot full (or even half power)
i took it to an exhaust place and the guy there said that it's due to the car overfueling and i should put in a new O2 sensor, preferably wide band... (i thought they were more useful on turbo cars personally)
i got under the car and revved it, i can't hear an exhaust leak anywhere so i think you're right about that, i don't think it's leaking...Jesus christ.
A leaking exhaust will be audible all the time. Not just when there is no load on the engine.
A pod filter wont make it back fire more. All pods will do is a low you to fit different intake setups. They offer no actually performance upgrade to an NA.
As for the fuel issue.
Try replacing the temperature sender.
If the car is running colder than it should be it wont run efficiently.
For the transmission:
Grinding gears can be due to,
A: A clutch that wont disengage fully. Re-adjust it.
B: Worn syncro's. Nothing you can do about it. Renew the gearbox oil, and see if that helps.
A Heavy pedal can be attributed to:
A: Worn clutch pressure plate and/or flywheel.
B:Stretched cable and/or low fluid levels in the reservoir.
i've heard about that temparature sender issue, duly noted as something i need to try doing when i get some fundage...
oh, and all the fluids and oils were changed when i had the service done...
that stretched cable thing sounds interesting... (i don't think it's low fluids as it's not hydraulic)
i'll let some people give it a feel at the next meet on wednesday... perhaps they can also help diagnose the problem...
i was having a problem with the thermostat (it was stuck open making the engine cool down when there was no load on it) before the service... i made them replace it as part of the service... i hoped that would fix my problem, but it didn't...Engine temps make a big difference to fuel economy, make sure top radiator hose is getting hot when running to ensure thermostat is opening correctly as well, make sure it doesn't get hot though until the engine is up to temp, if it's warming up the whole time the engine is warming up or the temp gauge takes a while to get up to normal your thermostat might be stuck open which will cause the engine to run too cool, use more fuel, and not run as well as it should.
but it's helpful anyway, thanks...
all in good time paully... i'll be adding another resonator soon...Put a f*cking resonator under it and it will go away. Same with the popping while the engine is being overrun down hills.
i need to make it quieter... cos it drones and pisses me off at the moment... redback mufflers FTL!
though i had attributed the popping to over fueling... thanks for giving me hope that it will stop when i fix my exhaust....
thanks everyone for your help and advice... please keep it coming...
#20
Posted 29 August 2008 - 09:59 PM
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users