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B4 Front Mount (Many Pics)


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#1 hawks_123

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Posted 06 July 2009 - 09:40 PM

Just installed the FMIC kit from scarles in New Zealand. It took much longer than expected and incredible amount
of cutting of the bar. We did not use the cooler that is in there kit, just the piping. Although because the cooler was not the exact size that they designed the kit with we needed to do some modding on the cold side of cooler.
I suggest that anyone who wants to do this should not buy the cooler they supply as i'm sure there would be no chance of keeping the crash bar, just make sure the widths are the same as there. As you can see it is still possible to keep the crash bar if you get a shorter cooler.

Engine Bay with the Interwarmer removed
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First section of the piping as it comes off the two turbos
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Cooler with mounts bolted onto the top.
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Half mutilated crash bar, because it's a short cooler, only the bottom of the bar had to be cut out.
Atleast it doesn't look defectable.
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This is the back of the front bar, even after this there was heaps more to cut out. There is no chance at all
that the driving lights could be kept.
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Cooler mounted to the underside of crash bar.
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Pod mounted in guard alongside hot pipe onto cooler, freed up room in the engine bay for coolant overflow
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Overlow bottle in place of stock air box. Pod and hot pipe go into each hole in the guard.
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Hot and cold pipes connected to cooler
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This is what happens when you get the wrong size cooler. Quick trip to bunnings plumbing section. (this pipe now changed to a silicon joiner)
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Cold pipe coming up infront of Cam belt cover, taking the place of the coolant bottle.
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Temporary Blow off valve (now replaced)
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All Done up
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The finished product.
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I've noticed no real difference in lag or VOD. A maybe a tad more power, could be a placebo effect though.
The biggest difference is heat soak, no power drop even after a lot of boosting. Summer will be the real test though.
If you do it make sure all clamps are done up really tight, it's not good fun playing mechanics on the side of the road.
If it's broke use a cable tie.

#2 robt

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Posted 06 July 2009 - 09:50 PM

I say sticky!

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#3 B4TT

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Posted 06 July 2009 - 09:58 PM

cool :D, wish I could still afford an FMIC :(

 


#4 Evil_VZ-T

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Posted 06 July 2009 - 10:02 PM

Looks good, Congrats on giving it a go. But i would try and invert the core and try and run the piping just under the headlights (like the Rs's) So you an still have your foggies
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#5 Hypnotic

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Posted 06 July 2009 - 10:43 PM

Thats nice work, looks alright, now all ya need is a tune and you should be right.

As soon as she hands it to you, slowly take of your pants, then, while staring her straight in the eyes rub it against the tip of you penis, while continuing your painfully intense gaze whisper to her;
 
"My eye is watering, this might be a bit hot"

I should just convert to single, right?
 
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#6 Alex

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Posted 06 July 2009 - 11:05 PM

good on you for having a go! i'd be replacing that pvc elbow ASAP. billsy spec piping! theoretically it should be good, but i don't know how long they go with the clamping forces. also, as stated, try flipping the core, and you may be able to put the foggies back in!

#7 Delete This Account

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Posted 07 July 2009 - 07:30 AM

Looks very tuff mate! Thats one dirty engine bay! Clean asap!

#8 hawks_123

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Posted 07 July 2009 - 08:02 AM

Looks good, Congrats on giving it a go.

But i would try and invert the core and try and run the piping just under the headlights (like the Rs's) So you an still have your foggies


Good luck to anyone who tries to invert it. Pics do not do justice to how little amount of room there is at the front of a B4. Also depends on how defectable you want your car to be.
The lights are just bling anyway, not useful for anything. It's much more beneficial to have a FMIC IMO.

Looks very tuff mate!

Thats one dirty engine bay! Clean asap!


Why? There no underbody cover anymore, it'll just get dirty again ;)
I'm one of those people who dosn't care to much about under the bonnet, once shut you cant see it anyway. ;)
If it's broke use a cable tie.

#9 Dylan

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Posted 07 July 2009 - 08:22 AM

Nice one!

#10 fatcat67

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Posted 07 July 2009 - 10:00 AM

Even when Al puts front mounts in Gen3's he dosen't invert them. He uses an EVO core (from memory) with hot and cold side pointing down to the ground at 45deg and runs the piping low too. I think Graham (gradg) has posted pictures up here somewhere of his Outback with that setup.
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#11 XXB4XX

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Posted 07 July 2009 - 10:10 AM

the big question is... does it flutter!!! haha

#12 Mosti

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Posted 07 July 2009 - 10:11 AM

Looks tops mate Inverting the core looks like it could be quite easy to do, few silicon bends and cutting the piping. I'm not a fan of seeing the inlet and outlets of the core and the silicon joins. Maybe the core could sit about 2" lower, it would hide the joins and foggies might be able to be used.

#13 Delete This Account

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Posted 07 July 2009 - 10:12 AM

the big question is... does it flutter!!! haha




Probably did when he had that rubber thing where the BOV is ment to go :P

#14 rxliberty2000

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Posted 07 July 2009 - 11:48 AM

Looks good.

Interesting that you can see so much of the piping in the front air damm.

with my install you see a lot less:

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#15 hawks_123

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Posted 07 July 2009 - 12:45 PM

the big question is... does it flutter!!! haha


Oh yeah, hard work not laughing at myself on every gear change though
Also went like poo, no boost after gear changes.

Looks tops mate
Inverting the core looks like it could be quite easy to do, few silicon bends and cutting the piping.
I'm not a fan of seeing the inlet and outlets of the core and the silicon joins. Maybe the core could sit about 2" lower, it would hide the joins and foggies might be able to be used.


Simple, i could not be even an inch lower, it would then be lowest part of the car.

Looks good.

Interesting that you can see so much of the piping in the front air damm.

with my install you see a lot less:


Completely different bar though, had no choice but to take that much out.
If it's broke use a cable tie.

#16 kr0nic

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Posted 07 July 2009 - 05:43 PM

Oh yeah, hard work not laughing at myself on every gear change though
Also went like poo, no boost after gear changes.



Simple, i could not be even an inch lower, it would then be lowest part of the car.



Completely different bar though, had no choice but to take that much out.


Mate i know EXACTLY what you mean, i installed this exact kit (except with the supplied cooler) on sunday, me and a mate spent 10 hours putting it in, i am going to get rid of the cooler that came with the kit and get a shorter one like yours cause i cant even run a crash bar the way it is now. Can i ask what the exact measurements of your cooler are ? and where you bought it from ?

Are you going to get the BOV flange re welded so its pointing down instead of the stupid angle its on now ? with the bov im now running it hits on the bonnet cause of the pipes direction.

Did you cut the bar all yourself ? We attacked mine with the angle grinder haha, theres bugger all left of it now! im going to have to take it to a body shop to get it smoothed out, im also getting them to cut out the fog light mounts completly.
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#17 CRUISN

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Posted 07 July 2009 - 08:51 PM

Great work there mate. Ive been staring at my engine bay over the last few days sussing out what needs to be moved and where to put a fmic in.

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#18 Matt

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Posted 07 July 2009 - 09:37 PM

I was looking at Shanes RSK today with the front bumper off,and his crash bar is tiny in comparison to ours AUDM's, its pretty much just the top section supporting the bumper,the section you had to cut out wasnt there? His is an older revision Legacy,but if all JDM Legacy's have a smaller crash bar could this be another option too cutiing up the crash bar? Though its probably still defectable it'd be alot less noticable?? Just a thought

#19 Billsy

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Posted 07 July 2009 - 09:52 PM

i hope you cut out the crashbar where it was covering the core, and cut the top of the mouth of the bar (where you cant see) so that the entire core gets airflow, there are a lot of fmic installs around that dont work properly due to blocked cores

......................................

 


#20 hawks_123

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Posted 08 July 2009 - 08:01 AM

Are you going to get the BOV flange re welded so its pointing down instead of the stupid angle its on now ? with the bov im now running it hits on the bonnet cause of the pipes direction.

Did you cut the bar all yourself ? We attacked mine with the angle grinder haha, theres bugger all left of it now! im going to have to take it to a body shop to get it smoothed out, im also getting them to cut out the fog light mounts completly


Na we have already changed that, two 90' copper bends welded together to face the othere way so i am still using the
factory BOV. I'll put up a pic soon.
Yeah we cut/trimmed everything, that is a large reason why it took so long.

i hope you cut out the crashbar where it was covering the core, and cut the top of the mouth of the bar (where you cant see)
so that the entire core gets airflow, there are a lot of fmic installs around that dont work properly due to blocked cores


We only cut out the bottom of the crash bar. The cooler is not actually visible when looking under the bonnet, i don't think it will really effect flow, the radiator works fine when it's not all exposed. The fan during summer will also suck air through the top.
If it's broke use a cable tie.




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