5 replies to this topic

[Luke96]

Hey guys.

 

I have an issue that is bothering me a lot. It isn't a massive problem, but it annoys me. I will try not make this too long.

 

I have a 2006 Subaru Liberty 2L sedan.

 

Anyway, I needed to get my car serviced at this point anyway, and my check engine light was on. After getting it serviced by a Subaru Specialist, he told me that something to do with a pump (or something) that helps start the car when it is cold was kicking out errors (sorry I don't know much about cars so I can't say exactly)

 

It was all cleared, and as soon as I left the place, the light came back on. I told the guy, and it was a different error code. It was something to do with the 'neutral inhibitor switch'.

 

He cleared it, and on the drive home, it came back on again.

 

I took it back to him, and he had no idea how to fix it. So I took it to a Subaru dealership, and they said the same thing, that it was the inhibitor switch. They were unable to fix it, because they do mechanical work and not electrical.

 

So I took my car to an auto-electrician, and he again said the same thing. He fully replaced the switch and checked all the wiring, and said it was all ok. He cleared the error logs. 

 

But, unluckily for me, as soon as i turned the car on again after getting that fixed, the light was still on!!!

 

 

Sorry for the long explanation, but if you need anymore information I will try to explain further.

 

This is just really bothering me now. 

 

       Thank you!

[surge]

Well it's time to connect it again to a scanner and see if it's still the same error code as before.

If it is, take it back to the auto electrician to check his work.

What subaru do you have?

The first issue you mention sounds like the secondary air pump - a common issue on some turbo models which you can Google.

As you've only had one issue fixed, you may find there is a second issue causing the CEL.

[Niko]

To save time you can get a bluetooth OBD2 reader from Jaycar or eBay, and use a free iPhone/Android app. That way you can scan the code at home and call your mech with the actual code. Also if it is throwing up false errors you can clear them yourself.

[Reevesy]

^ use a Wi Fi one if your using an iPhone. Jaycar sell both.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

[Luke96]

Ok thanks guys. I will try those out and see how they go. If not I will just have to take it back.

[Niko]

https://www.jaycar.c...nology/p/PP2145

Or get a Wifi one like Adrian said. Mine is like the one in the link, still going strong 3yrs later.