Jump to content


Photo

BE5 Rev D not making boost


  • Please log in to reply
26 replies to this topic

#1 lknguyen

lknguyen

    New Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 12 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Calgary Alberta Canada

Posted 15 May 2017 - 02:28 PM

Hi,

 

I just received my Subaru B4 Rev D and it is not making boost.

 

1. I have read through the Twin Turbo guide and took off and inspected the TMIC (very challenging to put back on). Everything looked okay. The IACV was closed but freely movable manually. I then cleaned and replaced the lines in the BBOD making sure to note to replace the restrictor pill in line 2. I put everything back together and I still am not making any primary or secondary boost.

 

My boost gauge shows vacuum of 20+ but whenever I'm driving it won't go past 0.

 

2. I don't have any CEL or stored codes as the black connectors once plugged in shows a steady flashing CEL. I plugged in the green connectors and while i hear clicking and fans going on/off, I do not see the either primary or secondary actuators arms moving. Would that be part of the problem?

 

Can anyone point me in the right direction how to diagnose this problem? Thank you!

 

 



#2 Guest_KONG_*

Guest_KONG_*
  • Guests

Posted 15 May 2017 - 02:46 PM

Is your vac tank holding vacuum?
Remove line 1 on the BBOD and you should hear a hiss of air being sucked back into the tank.

Also double check your vacuum lines from the BBOD are plumbed correctly.
There's diagrams on page 2 & 12 of the TT thread.

#3 lknguyen

lknguyen

    New Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 12 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Calgary Alberta Canada

Posted 15 May 2017 - 03:02 PM

Kong,

 

Thank you for the reply and help! I have not checked the vac tank yet and I will try that tomorrow morning! I will also remove the BBOD and double check the plumbing again and update!



#4 lknguyen

lknguyen

    New Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 12 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Calgary Alberta Canada

Posted 15 May 2017 - 03:12 PM

Kong,

 

Couldn't wait to test it in the morning I just ran out and tried your vac tank test by removing Line 1 from the BBOD while the engine was running. There was no sounds of air. 

 

If the Vac Tank is faulty, how do I access it? And would I expect split lines be the cause of the faulty Vac Tank?

Thanks.



#5 Guest_KONG_*

Guest_KONG_*
  • Guests

Posted 15 May 2017 - 03:15 PM

When you removed the solenoid box to do the lines, was there a thin vac line that came out the bottom of the BBOD that runs off into the guard?

That vac line will connect to a thicker hose which is plumbed from the driver side inner wheel well, across the top of the bumper reo, off to the passenger guard area where the tank is located.

 

Run the car for a couple minutes, turn the engine off then check again for the hiss.



#6 Guest_KONG_*

Guest_KONG_*
  • Guests

Posted 15 May 2017 - 03:32 PM

That's the tank on the bottom right of the photo...

 

 

tank_zpsmtoikv4z.png



#7 lknguyen

lknguyen

    New Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 12 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Calgary Alberta Canada

Posted 15 May 2017 - 03:38 PM

Kong, 

 

I remember that thin vac line. I just removed my solenoid box to make sure I reattached it, and I did at the bottom of Line 12.  I will have to try that again listen for the hiss tomorrow morning. It's nearly midnight in Calgary. 

 

That is a pretty big tank. I hope it isn't buggered because I don't know where to source another one. How would one access it without dismantling the fender like the picture?



#8 lknguyen

lknguyen

    New Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 12 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Calgary Alberta Canada

Posted 15 May 2017 - 03:46 PM

The only vac line that disappears out into the fender is still attached!  I will recheck the BBOD plumbing however since it's detached from the car now. 

Thanks! I'll let you know what I find!

Attached Files



#9 Guest_KONG_*

Guest_KONG_*
  • Guests

Posted 15 May 2017 - 03:49 PM

Well that's a start.

The tank may have a hole from an accident but it would seem more likely to me that the hose that connects to it is leaking somewhere.  Alternately, the associated solenoid in the BBOD isn't sealing or it could be incorrect internal BBOD or external vacuum line plumbing.

 

I hope this is the cause of your problems, but it's also possible this is just part of the problem and once the tank holds vacuum there may still be further diagnosis needed .



#10 lknguyen

lknguyen

    New Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 12 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Calgary Alberta Canada

Posted 16 May 2017 - 02:25 PM

Hello all,

 

This is what I have done so far to try to diagnose the issue:

 

1. I checked the BBOD internal and it all seems correct to the references for REV D online. 

2. I tried to drive the car for a few minutes and took line 1 from the BBOD after. There was no hissing

3. I drove the car again but harder and the car did make some boost 5-6 PSI at 4500 rpm. I do hear the BOV going. I am reckoning that is the secondary turbo kicking in. A CEL came on during the drive.

4. I connected the two black wires together while the car was off, and turned it into the ON position to retrieve the code. This is where I stopped because there was a weird flashing combination that doesn't fit any reference I have seen online for it.

 

The link for the youtube video is below. (The video where the code begins again is at 0.06). I got 17 LONG flashes, and 3 SHORT flashes.

 

https://youtu.be/8H7p2fQqcXE

 

The code kept cycling 17:3 however I can't find any references to that CEL code since that would mean its a 1703?

 

Can anyone enlighten me on that code? 

 

Thank you!



#11 lknguyen

lknguyen

    New Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 12 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Calgary Alberta Canada

Posted 16 May 2017 - 02:32 PM

To add to this:

 

I don't know if my 2002 Subaru B4 BE5 RevD is OBDII compliant. But on the website http://www.troublecodes.net/subaru/ the flashing sequence 17:3 = 1703  may match the code P1703.

 

Would that be a correct assumption? P1703 is "Low Clutch Timing Control Solenoid Valve Circuit Malfunction"



#12 Guest_KONG_*

Guest_KONG_*
  • Guests

Posted 16 May 2017 - 04:52 PM

I'd say so,  a Circuit malfunction may explain why a soleniod in the BBOD isn't working. 

Did you unplug the BBOD when you did the lines? Perhaps check the plug for broken wires & bent pins.

 

I'm interested to see what our Duncan has to say.  Does the BBOD circuit anything to do with the brake or clutch harness?



#13 duncanm

duncanm

    wha' who ?

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 2,002 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Sydney

Posted 16 May 2017 - 05:14 PM

... how's your boost gauge plumbed in ? Are you confident its measuring the right thing, and works ok?

 

Hearing the BOV is not consistent with reading no significant boost.

 

No hissing / actuators not moving / vac tank not storing vacuum - per Kong's suggestion.  You need to sort that first, or none of the actuators will work.   

You can see here (third pic in http://www.subyclub....-to-twin-turbo/, 'system chart') that the vac tank is charged off the manifold via a check (one-way) valve when the engine is pulling vac.  Make sure that valve is working ok and as Kong says - the lines are all ok (it runs from the BBOD across the front of the radiator to the vac tank).  Maybe just do a simple pressure test on the line after the check valve to see if there's any leaks.

 

 

I found another reference to P1703 (http://www.subyclub....cu-error-codes/) "AT Low Clutch Timing Solenoid Valve Circuit Malfunction" - so definitely could be something in your auto box (maybe the torque converter lock up or something?) -- my only thought is that could trigger limp mode (open the SPRV) - but you should still get some boost.  I'd ignore that for now.

 

I found another reference to P1703 (http://www.subyclub....cu-error-codes/) "AT Low Clutch Timing Solenoid Valve Circuit Malfunction" - so definitely could be something in your auto box (maybe the torque converter lock up or something?) -- my only thought is that could trigger limp mode (open the IACV) - but you should still get some boost.  I'd ignore that for now.



#14 lknguyen

lknguyen

    New Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 12 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Calgary Alberta Canada

Posted 16 May 2017 - 05:41 PM

Thanks for all the replies KONG and duncanm!

 

duncanm,

 

My boost gauge is attached to a previous "T" line ( see attached picture) that was blocked off. I'm assuming there was a boost gauge or something here from the previous owner so I unblocked it and put my own line into it.  Is this a suitable area to sample boost on a 2002 BE5 Rev D? I believe it was working because my boost gauge was showing boost (like 5-6 psi) past 4500rpms.

 

The P1703 code seems like it would show up on OBDII scanner screen, not as a code via flashing CEL because of the "P" but that's all I could come up with from the flashing CEL lights. My BE5 has a manual transmission so I don't understand what you mean by auto box. Does that refer to something other than the transmission?

 

The small thin vac line runs from the BBOD and attaches a hose that leads into the fender, I double checked that however I don't know if the line is okay once it's in the fender. I can see it turning into the hard line behind the bumper and it looks good. It disappears again into the passenger fender and to the Vac Tank and I haven't peeked inside yet. That will be the next task tomorrow I guess!

 

I will make sure the check-valve is okay however I don't know where they are. There are two one-way valve/cylinders on the passenger side on the firewall. Is that what you are talking about?

 

Kong,

 

I did unplug the BBOD harness, and another harness in front of it to take it out of the car. I will double check for wiring and pins that are faulty on the line I unplugged tomorrow I suppose. 

 

Thanks everyone.

Attached Files



#15 duncanm

duncanm

    wha' who ?

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 2,002 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Sydney

Posted 16 May 2017 - 06:11 PM

 If you've got a MT - scratch the P1703, then.  Nothing to do with transmission. The only thing electrical on the clutch in an MT is the starter kill and cruise control cutout (if you have cruise).

 

Maybe its P0173 -- fuel trim malfunction Bank 2 ? Doesn't make much sense to me.

 

That spot for boost gauge should be fine -- sure the gauge is ok ?

 

I'm not sure where the check valve for the vac tank is off the top of my head -- you may need to trace the line from the tank (front of radiator), through the BBOD and to the manifold.



#16 Guest_KONG_*

Guest_KONG_*
  • Guests

Posted 16 May 2017 - 06:43 PM

If all vac lines are correct then I'd be suspicious of the solenoid in the BBOD that seals vacuum in the vac tank or its wiring.
It should click when you do a green plug diagnostic mode check.

#17 lknguyen

lknguyen

    New Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 12 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Calgary Alberta Canada

Posted 16 May 2017 - 11:55 PM

I will unbolt the BBOD and do the diagnostic mode check and see if all the solenoids are all clicking.

 

To add to this, I have a question about the BBOD external lines for 10 and 12 for the REV D. I am unsure if this was the correct set up, and i will try to get a photo when I get home. In text though,

 

1. I got line 10 terminating into a connector that connects it to a slightly larger diameter rubber tubing and goes directly down somwhere. (it was midnight. I was tired and didn't check what it was. My apologies)

2. I got line 12  going into a SOLID pipe that spans the manifold and disappears across the engine...(Again, it was midnight when I was working and didn't trace it all the way to the end)

 

I am unsure if this is correct. I hope it is not and this is my problem. Can anyone confirm and maybe upload a picture? I have seen some drawing diagrams but it has Line 11 (from rev a/b/c I believe) and it is a little confusing for me.

 

Thanks heaps!!!



#18 zanzarah

zanzarah

    Trusted Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 112 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Adelaide

Posted 17 May 2017 - 12:49 AM

1.Line 10 goes down and connects  to the intake. (boost bleed off from the exhaust valve  2 port duty solenoid)

2.Line 12 from the manifold to vacuum tank via the one way valve (vacuum storage)

Attached Files


Liberty B4 2002 BE5 Rev E 2.5L BITURBO TF035HL-14GXT E85


#19 lknguyen

lknguyen

    New Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 12 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Calgary Alberta Canada

Posted 17 May 2017 - 03:38 AM

Zanzarah,

 

it seems I have the line 10 and 12 hooked onto the right places. I will check the operation of the solenoids tonight then. Thank you!



#20 lknguyen

lknguyen

    New Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 12 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Calgary Alberta Canada

Posted 17 May 2017 - 03:52 AM

I am still mystified by the CEL flashing sequence. Is it possible my vehicle is OBDII complaint? I hooked a cheap Ebay bluetooth OBDII scanner and used the Torque app but the Torque app said it cannot connect to the ECU. I am going to see if any of my friends have a more legitimate OBDII scanner I can use and see.

 

If anyone has any insight to the CEL sequence as well, don't be afraid to chime in :)

 

Thanks for all the help so far






0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users