Jump to content


Photo

Code 66


  • Please log in to reply
32 replies to this topic

#21 01OBK

01OBK

    New Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 86 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 12 September 2017 - 06:15 PM

So I got round to blocking the BOV off this arvo and well I think I found the problem cause it hammers along now! Nice and smooth on change over with hardly any vod. Will throw on a boost gauge over the weekend and see where it's all sitting.
Cheers for the help guys

#22 duncanm

duncanm

    wha' who ?

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 2,002 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Sydney

Posted 12 September 2017 - 07:52 PM

aha!

 

well done for persevering.

 

Now -- BOV is a pretty simple device. Is the plumbing to it ok? Stuck open?



#23 01OBK

01OBK

    New Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 86 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 12 September 2017 - 08:21 PM

Only had a quick look at the BOV before blocking it. It seemed to move freely by hand and would close ok. But I capped off both nipples and could still push it open by hand fairly easily.

#24 duncanm

duncanm

    wha' who ?

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 2,002 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Sydney

Posted 12 September 2017 - 09:18 PM

both nipples? OEM only has one.

 

Do the hose 10 mod while you're there.

 

https://www.tastesli...01-hose-10-mod/



#25 01OBK

01OBK

    New Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 86 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 13 September 2017 - 04:19 AM

Yeah mine has 2 ni0ple coming off it. And yeah was going to try the hose 10 mod.

#26 01OBK

01OBK

    New Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 86 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 16 September 2017 - 05:30 PM

So I threw on a gfb bov and a boost gauge today. I'm only getting around 5-6psi form the primary then like a light switch at 5000rpm I get about 13-14psi from the secondary.
At lower revs the boost seems to fluctuate around a lot between 3-6psi.
And I can get 2 2nd gear pulls out of it before code 66 comes back up and puts it in kind of a limp mode.
Can anyone think of any more avenues I can try?

#27 01OBK

01OBK

    New Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 86 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 25 September 2017 - 06:06 PM

Just an update, still having issues. It doesn't idle real well when cold goes up to 1400rpm then nearly stalls back down to around 600rpm then back up again. Does this repeatedly for a minute or two.
Still getting low boost out of the primary when I put my foot down, only 6psi then at 5000rpm the secondary comes on to 13-14psi. Then it throws itself into limp mode and I get code 45 and 66 come up.
But if I'm pulling up a hill in top gear doing 80kph I get 10psi out of the primary at 2500rpm.
But if I do the same at 60kph boost surges up and down between 3psi and 7psi.
Fuel economy is shithouse too only got 200ks from 40l.
Runs a but rough too when warm, almost like it's misfiring.
I did clean the solenoid box out again over the weekend and still no change, but I did find that the solenoid that has a hose connected to the MAP sensor doesn't open or close when in diagnostic mode with the green and black plugs under the dash connected. Just seems to be stuck kind of half open. All other solenoids open and close alright
Could that solenoid have anything to do with it, I know code 45 means Atmospheric pressure sensor/ Absolute pressure change solenoid Open or Short.
Is that the solenoid the code is pointing to?

#28 Jimbo

Jimbo

    Livin' the Legacy

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 2,771 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:B'town

Posted 26 September 2017 - 09:34 AM

I would say theres a good chance thats your issue. If in doubt change it out.

See if you can remove the solenoid and give it a good clean.

'04 Liberty GT Premium "The Sprog Chariot"


#29 01OBK

01OBK

    New Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 86 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 27 September 2017 - 06:07 PM

So this arvo I cleared the codes with FreeSSM. Pulled the solenoid right out, gave it a good clean and supplied it with 12v and it opens and closes fine. Pulled the little green thing off the manifold connected to that vacuum line and cleaned it out too.
Took it for a drive up the twisties near my house. Drove it hard for about 10-15mins and it pulled fine, change over was smooth was getting about 8psi from primary then up to 12psi when the secondary came on at about 4800rpm. Then I was pulling up a hill just on primary at 3000rpm and the CEL came on again.
No code 45 this time just code 66 again.

#30 01OBK

01OBK

    New Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 86 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 27 September 2017 - 06:45 PM

So I pulled over and let it cool down for about 10mins, reset the ECU following this http://www.subyclub....cu-error-codes/ and drove it hard again on the way back. No codes came up this time but id did feel like it was surging at lower revs between 2000-4000rpm but boost on the primary was staying fairly steady though.
I did clean out the MAF sensor too before I left and it still idles a little bit rough but it is slightly better after cleaning.

Anyone got some ideas what could cause the surging and rough idle?

#31 01OBK

01OBK

    New Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 86 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 11 October 2017 - 07:51 PM

Did a bit of research over the past week and decided to have another tinker with the Outback tonight. Blocked off the top port of the ECV actuator and got 14psi from the primary, secondary came on at around 4600rpm with no VOD and 15psi before it threw up code 66 again this time with a 67 aswell

Connected the top port back up, this time with a .8mm restrictor pill. I got 10psi from the primary for about a second or two before it cuts back down to 6psi. Secondary came on a bit later again at around 5000rpm, this time ECV sounded a little slower to close off.

Does the ECV open to help control primary boost? If it does how can i get it to stay shut and prevent fluctuations from the primary?

#32 01OBK

01OBK

    New Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 86 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 27 October 2017 - 04:16 PM

So another few weeks of research and trial and error and I've finally fixed the problem.
I did the ECV bypass mod and that brought the boost levels right but was still idling rough at around 1200rpm.
Had a look at some hose 10 mod threads and realised I had the BOV supply line still connected to hose 10 via a tee. So I removed the tee and ran the BOV straight to the manifold and hose 10 back to the intake pipe and bingo it now idles perfect at 700rpm.
So glad it's fixed and runs like a dream now

#33 duncanm

duncanm

    wha' who ?

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 2,002 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Sydney

Posted 30 October 2017 - 09:00 PM

glad its fixed.

 

For future reference -- I just came across this code 66 diagnosis flow

 

Attached File  Code-66S-TwinTurbo.pdf   217.44KB   7 downloads

 

(from https://web.archive.org/web/*/http://www.veloce.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk:80/TT%20PDFs/Code-66S-TwinTurbo.pdf)






0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users