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Engine Failure P0026 (2.5 L 2000 Liberty)


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#1 tw3124

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Posted 07 March 2018 - 04:17 PM

Hi guys,

Hoping somebody here might be able to help me out with an issue Im currently experiencing with my 2000 Liberty. I recently changed the engine in the car (the other one gave up on me) and was able to get the car to run whilst I had the up on the stands. However as soon as I lowered the car and try to start it again Ive been unable to get it going again.

When I first started it, the engine seemed to be running a bit rough when idling and vibrating quite heavily. I connected the test connectors under the dash in order to get a fault code and it returned P0026. I looked up this in the Haynes manual and I cant seem to find it anywhere. Looking around the internet it seems that it relates to a variable valve timing sensor that are located on each bank of the engine. However I cant seem to find these sensor anywhere on my engine.

Im pretty sure the issue is with the timing of the engine as I am getting sparks and fuel to the cylinder but cant seem to get proper ignition. Is there something else that I might have missed when changing the engine over? Or alternatively does anyone know of this P0026 code coming up on older (Gen 3) models as most of the videos I have seen seem to be for Gen 4 and up?

Any help would be appreciated.
Cheers

#2 Jimbo

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Posted 07 March 2018 - 07:45 PM

Gen3 doesn't have AVCS (variable valve timing). Did you get the CEL and decode via it's flashes? The codes starting with "PO" I'm certain didn't come into Gen3 until the facelift where they got an electrical overhaul.

You might have to decode the fault using the old system. So say, 2 long flashes = 2 and 4 short flashes = 4. 

Did you put a new timing belt on the replacement engine? If not, check the crank and cam angle sensors are plugged in. If one of those is not plugged in, it'll do exactly as described.

 


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#3 El_Freddo

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Posted 07 March 2018 - 09:37 PM

You might have to decode the fault using the old system. So say, 2 long flashes = 2 and 4 short flashes = 4.


2 long flashes = 20, 4 short flashes = 4. This equates to a code 24.

What did the replacement engine come from?

Are the fuel lines plumbed in correctly?

Cheers

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#4 tw3124

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Posted 07 March 2018 - 10:52 PM

Gen3 doesn't have AVCS (variable valve timing). Did you get the CEL and decode via it's flashes? The codes starting with "PO" I'm certain didn't come into Gen3 until the facelift where they got an electrical overhaul.
You might have to decode the fault using the old system. So say, 2 long flashes = 2 and 4 short flashes = 4. 
Did you put a new timing belt on the replacement engine? If not, check the crank and cam angle sensors are plugged in. If one of those is not plugged in, it'll do exactly as described.


Ahh that makes a bit more sense then.
Yeah I found a thread on this forum that describes how to read the fault code using the CEL. The code would be 26 I think.(2 long 6 short) which from the list of codes provided in that thread said air temperature sensor. But when I looked at the location of the air temp sensor in the manual their is no sensor in the same place on the air intake. Which leads me to believe I am looking through the wrong manual haha. It looks like there are two sensor just before the butterfly valve in the throttle body so I am wondering if one of these is the air temperature sensor, or have I misinterpreted the fault code?

The timing belt was changed a few years ago but I’m pretty sure both the cam shaft and crank sensors are connected, though I’ll test them with a multimeter tomorrow to make sure.

#5 tw3124

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Posted 07 March 2018 - 10:57 PM

2 long flashes = 20, 4 short flashes = 4. This equates to a code 24.What did the replacement engine come from?Are the fuel lines plumbed in correctly?CheersBennie


The replacement engine was out of an auto 1999 Liberty that my dad had back home. The car we swapped it into was a manual but we changed the flywheel and starter motor and as far as I’m aware they are the only differences in terms of the engine.

I am pretty certain that the fuel lines are plumbed correctly purely because we had the engine running but I’ll double check those as well.

#6 duncanm

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Posted 08 March 2018 - 08:26 AM

26 is definitely intake air temp sensor with the pre-OBD 2.5, and the fault symptoms are consistent.

 

Are you looking in the right spot?  My manual says its a temperature and pressure sensor unit bolted to the manifold just to the passenger's side of the coil pack (it actually sits under the spark lead boots when they're inserted).

 

Attached File  sensor.png   31.19KB   3 downloads

 

Couple of diagnostic steps attached...

Attached Files



#7 tw3124

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Posted 11 March 2018 - 03:04 PM

26 is definitely intake air temp sensor with the pre-OBD 2.5, and the fault symptoms are consistent.
 
Are you looking in the right spot?  My manual says its a temperature and pressure sensor unit bolted to the manifold just to the passenger's side of the coil pack (it actually sits under the spark lead boots when they're inserted).
 
attachicon.gifsensor.png
 
Couple of diagnostic steps attached...


Thanks Duncanm,

I found the sensor and checked the resistance of the sensor itself with a multimeter. I’m not sure if I have done it correctly but I tested the middle two prongs of the sensor and got back around 8 kOhms. The manual says it should be between 1-3 kOhms but my dad tested the sensor on the old engine and it returned the same resistance as the one I tested.

So either both the sensors in the engines are faulty or I have read the manual incorrectly and tested the resistance of the circuit incorrectly. Were those the two pins I was supposed to test or have I completely misunderstood what the manual is telling me to test?

#8 duncanm

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Posted 11 March 2018 - 09:30 PM

those pages definitely say middle two pins..






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