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Ahri's Evolution - My 02 Outback EJ251 to EZ30D Conversion


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#21 duncanm

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Posted 25 May 2018 - 09:31 PM

wiring diagram I have says H6 has a fuel pump controller.

Dig around behind the rear inner panel in front of the jack storage - that's where it hides

#22 KerrosTalde

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Posted 25 May 2018 - 11:45 PM

Checked every relay i could lay my hands on and nothing.

This is going to plague me now, and it is going to be the simplest bloody thing that too.

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Error.403 Does not compute. The moment the key makes it to ON, everything stays lit up until the battery is disconnected.

 

I'll have to pick Tim's brain about his RS30 build, as i was using that as a guide.


"Wouldn't it be fun to have a daily that you can take racing, tow a boat with, take the kids to school in, go do the grocery run, and hoon in any weather?"

 

"Why do you think i bought a Subaru then?"


#23 KerrosTalde

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Posted 25 May 2018 - 11:48 PM

wiring diagram I have says H6 has a fuel pump controller.

Dig around behind the rear inner panel in front of the jack storage - that's where it hides

Cheers for the advice. When it is daylight, i'll have a squiz, the back of the H6 is packed full of everything that was in the way of the looms.


"Wouldn't it be fun to have a daily that you can take racing, tow a boat with, take the kids to school in, go do the grocery run, and hoon in any weather?"

 

"Why do you think i bought a Subaru then?"


#24 KerrosTalde

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Posted 26 July 2018 - 01:04 AM

Mass update time with photo dump! Get yer coffee ready!

Well, it has been almost two months since i last posted, and it has felt a bit like groundhog day, as you will see in my next few posts.

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Time to lap the valves and put in new seats.

 

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Doing both heads took the most of an afternoon, even with the coffee speed-boost.

 

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Nice new MLS gaskets.

 

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Time to torque it down and slap some cams in.

 

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One bank done. Looks like 3/4 of an SR20 at this angle.

 

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Both sides done, time to clean this pig up for the rear cover.

 

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Clean enough to eat off of, at least for the mating surfaces are.

 

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Rear cover on and the timing chain sprockets to fit.

 

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When you can't be arsed to make a tool to hold the sprocket still, just improvise.
Hey, if it's stupid but it works, it ain't stupid.

 

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This is where i learned how much of a pain in the ass the tensioners were to reset.
 

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Replacing all of the front cover bolts with new stainless kit because a third of these were mangled anyway.

 

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Scotch bright and degreaser works wonders on the slag and staining that builds up from leaking power steering pumps. I also ran a reaming bit through all the bolt holes to clean out the old sealant that was packed in there.

 

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Front cover sealed and new stainless H5 kit looks pretty good.

 

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Intake manifold, injectors, fuel rails, and all associated wiring fitted ready to go into the engine bay.

 

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Swapping both the power steering and air con from the H6 to Ahri as the pumps and lines are different than the 2.5 kit on the engine side.

 

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Sorting out where i can lift the engine up from so it is as level as possible.

 

That's it for this section of the update which brings us to early June, tune in next time for fitting of the engine and the plight of issues that ensue.
Later days.


"Wouldn't it be fun to have a daily that you can take racing, tow a boat with, take the kids to school in, go do the grocery run, and hoon in any weather?"

 

"Why do you think i bought a Subaru then?"


#25 Barbbachello

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Posted 26 July 2018 - 08:49 AM

Neato. H6 looks a billion times more complicated to assemble than an EJ


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#26 KerrosTalde

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Posted 26 July 2018 - 07:04 PM

Neato. H6 looks a billion times more complicated to assemble than an EJ

 

It is a learning curve coming from an EJ, but they did simplify things somewhat by the time they got to the EZ36.
Having the FSM makes thing a whole lot easier than slapping it together blindly though.


"Wouldn't it be fun to have a daily that you can take racing, tow a boat with, take the kids to school in, go do the grocery run, and hoon in any weather?"

 

"Why do you think i bought a Subaru then?"


#27 El_Freddo

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Posted 26 July 2018 - 10:12 PM

Awesome work. You'll love the H6 with a manual behind it ;)

Cheers

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#28 KerrosTalde

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Posted 27 July 2018 - 01:56 AM

Part two of my mass update.
 

At the end of the last update, it was the first week of June and i was just about to install the engine.

 

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Once i removed the engine from the stand, i fitted the new rear main seal, and bolted the EJ251's flywheel and clutch to it, despite likely still being good.
Preventative maintenance beats having to pull the engine in fifty thousand because it's leaking.

 

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Practically installed itself, only took five minutes from lowering it down to unhooking it.

 

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Time to put the exhaust on while she's up on stands.

 

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Well... that's what i get for trying to take a shortcut...
The 2.5's exhaust not only is a smaller diameter, but the rear section is longer by about four inches.
The front half of the exhaust didn't want to go further up either.

 

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And this is why. The manual gearbox's crossmember kicks off to the left instead of being straight like what the H6's auto crossmember is.
The left exhaust runner was never going to just bolt on. Time to cut and bend.

 

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Luckily i had a couple of sections of old extractor runners from the Hi-Po 250 c.i. 2V in my XB Falcon.
They were the right diameter and had the perfect bends to throw a dogleg around the crossmember but keep it tucked up clear of the ground.


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This is not my best welding work, but it will do the job.
I do plan on getting a proper system made in the near future, but for now i have "UEL collectors".

 

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The length difference between the 2.5 and H6 exhaust sections is easier to see here.
The H6's rear box was rusted out so i transplanted the straight through muffler from my old system onto it. I look forward to hearing it.

 

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One last bit of butchery before she starts.
I did not swap the throttle cables over out of laziness and the bracket didn't fit any more.

Improvise, Adapt, Overcome!
 

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It may be lit up like a christmas tree, but everything checked out and it was ready to start.

 

As a side note, the H6 and 2.5 Outbacks have the same fuel pump wiring, down to the last pin, so i didn't need to delve into the rear half of the loom.

After putting the fuel pump fuse in and checking that she wasn't spraying fuel like a cut artery, i turned the key and she fired up and ran like new.

WIN!

... until she started leaking oil out from behind the rear timing cover like the Exxon Valdez.

FAIL!

SO MUCH FAIL!

 

Turned her off and waited till morning as it was now around 10 at night and i had been wrenching on the car non stop since 7 am.

 

Up bright and early once again.

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Honestly, screw pulling the engine out.

The air con is degassed anyway, so i pulled the condenser out the way, and that made things so much easier.

 

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Couldn't get my impact driver onto the harmonic balancer bolt with the radiator support upright in the way, so i made up a pronged tool that slots into the holes on the balancer.
And yes, i deliberately made it long enough to brace it against the body like this.

 

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Off it all goes, clean everything down, new O-rings from my VRS kit (They had given me double the amount i needed for O-rings) and sealant, back together it goes.

 

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By the time i had disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled everything, It was 1 am and inside the shed was no longer bearable to be in.

I'm a summer person, i would rather it be 40+ inside the shed than 4.

 

As i had pulled the rear cover off, i had found that two of the large O-rings that seals to the oil pump and behind the lower idler sprocket were damaged, likely when i fitted the rear cover it was knocked out of place. They had been pinched and when the engine got to operating pressure, it began leaking from there.
It was a pretty big kick to the teeth after what had been two months of work. But, hey, that's part of working on cars. Sometimes they play hard ball.

 

Anyway, left starting the car for a week and focused on finishing the rest of the car instead, giving it plenty of time to cure off just in case the sealant wasn't curing properly in the sub-20 degree days.

 

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Interesting fact: The pre-facelift H6 light (Right) and post-facelift 2.5 light (Left) have different plugs for the light sockets but the same wiring colours.

 

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A couple minutes of soldering and rewrapping later and you almost wouldn't be able to tell i had replaced anything.

 

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I wanted to see what i could do about getting rid of the auto shift pattern in the dash cluster.

Removing the globes from the shift tree and then using the 2.5's fascia on the H6 cluster did the job, although now my clock and odo are on opposite sides to how they were.
I'll look at getting my hands on a H6 BFM cluster in the future.

 

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Ahri finally has her face back!

 

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Spent a little bit of time cleaning up the interior.
Lots of crap was dislodged when the dash was pulled out and there was dust everywhere from my last trip up to the Flinders.

 

The weekend rolled around again and between a wedding and a paintball day with some mates, i turned the keys for another try.

 

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Humming away nicely again.

 

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She made it five minutes this time before leaking, and it was not as severe as last time, but it is still leaking from the rear cover in the same area.

I needed a cup of tea and some biscuits after this one to prevent me from beating my head against a wall in frustration.

 

A few days later my 1JZ Soarer, which had become my daily driver while Ahri was off the road, blew one of its turbos.

I would have preferred a hard kick to the nuts.

Ahri got wheeled out of the shed into the back yard and for the rest of June and most of July, i was stuck riding my motorbike to work while i had the Soarer's turbos rebuilt and high-flowed, and fixing up other small issues that i had been ignoring for the last year like paint, power steering rack leaks, and a intermittent fuel pump ecu failure.

Expensive but necessary work on a car like this.

 

But hey, at least one of my cars is now finished!

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This section updates us to last week. Next update is groundhog day, and a stunning revelation is made.
Stay tuned and later days.


"Wouldn't it be fun to have a daily that you can take racing, tow a boat with, take the kids to school in, go do the grocery run, and hoon in any weather?"

 

"Why do you think i bought a Subaru then?"


#29 duncanm

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Posted 27 July 2018 - 08:30 AM

awesome stuff.... you have the patience of Job. I'd be kicking the dog by now

#30 Barbbachello

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Posted 27 July 2018 - 09:05 AM

Ive sort of been there before. When i had my engine out last i had a massive brain fart about how the throw out bearing comes off the pressure plate for the pull type clutches. Long story short i had the car ready to drive out of the shed, full of coolant, oil and fuel before finding i had no clutch pedal...


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#31 KerrosTalde

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Posted 28 July 2018 - 01:12 AM

awesome stuff.... you have the patience of Job. I'd be kicking the dog by now

If spontaneous human combustion from frustration was a thing, i'd look like a crispy piece of bacon, i tell you that much.
Lots of tea and music was needed to face this problem time and time again, and the mental image of having the wagon done and winding it out through the hills to the tune of a singing flat-six was the motivation that kept me from just dropping a used 251 back into it to just end my suffering and put it back on the road.

 

 

Ive sort of been there before. When i had my engine out last i had a massive brain fart about how the throw out bearing comes off the pressure plate for the pull type clutches. Long story short i had the car ready to drive out of the shed, full of coolant, oil and fuel before finding i had no clutch pedal...

I can almost feel how much of a punch in the guts that would have been for you.

Having to pull an engine out is a PITA at the best of times; having to pull an engine out that you've just finished installing and plumbing is unfortunate indeed.


"Wouldn't it be fun to have a daily that you can take racing, tow a boat with, take the kids to school in, go do the grocery run, and hoon in any weather?"

 

"Why do you think i bought a Subaru then?"


#32 KerrosTalde

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Posted 28 July 2018 - 03:24 AM

We're back for part three of my update spam. You know the drill; fill those coffee cups and make yourself at home.

 

We're continue this saga after i suffered a crippling double whammy with the H6 leaking AGAIN and a 1JZ doing typical 1JZ things. After throwing my purse and some spanners at the Soarer to keep it happy, i finally can wheel Ahri back into the shed and start this cursed tango once more. I realised that i hadn't been documenting as thoroughly as i should have, in case some other unfortunate soul suffers the same fate with oil leaks and stumbles across my delusional ranting hoping for a clue.

 

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I am becoming a little too well prepared for this...
This is every tool needed to do this job.

 

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Oil and coolant drained again, radiator, condenser, and alternator removed.
Power steering and air con pumps swung out of the way.

 

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The balancer tool i made sure has been earning its keep. Definitely worth the effort making it.

 

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Kind of amusing to think back on when i first looked at the timing chains and how confusing it looked then.

Repetition makes even the most daunting of tasks mundane eventually...

(Yes, one of the oil pump bolts is the same as those on the front cover. I munted the head of the old one torquing it down improperly like the massive Dunce i am  :P )

 

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Yeah yeah, i know i should just make a damn tool for it by now, but the truth is i can't be   :fork: 'd!

 

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Cam sprockets, idlers, and oil pump relief valve removed.

 

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Water pump removed, and then it's just a matter of undoing the rear cover's bolts and removing it again.

 

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How i've been keeping track of everything.

Timing kit for the RHS is removed first and put on the left side of the cloth, LHS kit is put on the right, everything in between goes down the guts. It's a little bit OCD but i feel its important in case i have a sudden rush of shit to the brain and forget what goes where.

 

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And off comes the rear cover. Plenty of oil down the middle of it where it kept on leaking from.

 

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And we are back here once again.
You see it yet?

 

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The smoking gun. These are all the large O-rings located around the oil pump and main idler sprockets.
The most ruined one at the bottom is from behind the lower idler sprocket, which is torqued to 50.6 ft/lb.
The one on the far left is from the upper idler sprocket, which is torqued to the same spec.

Curious how one is stuffed far worse than the other...

 

By this point, i was starting to see a trend with these O-rings that had come in the VRS kit from America and went to Jarvis Subaru to get a quote for all of the OEM O-rings...

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I almost had to reach for a chair after seeing how much the cheeky sods were going to charge for bloody O-rings. $131!

 

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Took the quote sheet to Ludowici Seals in Wingfield on my way home and handed him the sheet to see if he had the same kit.
Laughed his ass off, disappeared for a minute and came back with all the seals i needed and squared it off at $18 bucks.

Legend!

 

Once i got home, i decided to see if there was any difference in the large O-rings...

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:dash2:  :dash2:  :dash2:  :dash2:  :dash2:  :dash2: 
The bottom one is the Subaru spec O-ring at 25mm x 2.0mm thick.
The top one is what came with the VRS kit from America. 25mm by 2.5mm thick.

 

The O-rings sit inside a little groove in the block that is about 1.5mm deep by my vernier's reckoning, aside from the groove for the lower idler sprocket, which is closer to 1.2mm deep.
O-rings only need to sit just a little bit proud to work properly, any prouder and they compress too much and crush and leak, which is what was happening.

 

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Wheeled the old GS500 in and tuned the carburettors as a bit of a break from working on the EZ30.
My fleet of projects makes the shed a bit crowded. To get them all in the shot, i'm sitting on a 4V 351 Cleveland block destined for the XB Falcon wagon tucked away in the back of the shed.

 

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Went through and surgically cleaned the rear cover and block face with a razor blade, then scotch bright, then wax and grease remover on a rag, and then metho on a clean white shirt.
Overkill? Maybe...

 

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Fitting the new Subaru spec O-rings into place with just a tiny bit of sealant in the grooves to keep them in place, i applied the sealant to the rear cover and then fitted it to the block carefully, putting about half of the bolts in only finger tight so the surfaces mated, and then left it for half an hour to let the sealant go off a bit before fitting all of the bolts and torquing it to spec.
I threw an old tablecloth over the front of the engine and left this little fan heater running at half power for a day to keep the temperature around the rear cover close to 20-odd degrees to improve the chances of it curing properly.

 

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All the timing chain gear back on the next morning.
 

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Gave the front cover the same thorough cleaning that the rear cover and block received.
 

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Sealant applied and the front cover fitted and torqued down with those shiny little H5 bolts.
Torque that balancer down to 130-something ft/lb or until my tool breaks again.

 

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Refit everything else again and leave for three days.
From starting to assemble the timing chains and sprockets to putting tools away and waiting for everything to cure, it only took me four hours.

 

Aaaand that is it. I've caught up to present time and in the morning, i will be firing the car up and seeing if she will finally hold her oil and run.
I will make sure i record the occasion regardless of the outcome, but for now, i need beer and sleep.  :drinks:

Cheers for sticking out these massive photo dumps, and apologies if you experienced a bit of deja vu reading through.

 

Stay tuned and later days.


"Wouldn't it be fun to have a daily that you can take racing, tow a boat with, take the kids to school in, go do the grocery run, and hoon in any weather?"

 

"Why do you think i bought a Subaru then?"


#33 Barbbachello

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Posted 28 July 2018 - 10:47 AM

Fingers crossed it works this time. Would love some more pics of the rest of the fleet and engines haha

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#34 El_Freddo

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Posted 29 July 2018 - 01:46 AM

Hoping this has come through as a winning job done! Nasty price on those O rings, $18 is much nicer!

That shed full of projects looks way better than the ones I'm used to. Dad's shed that I basically grew up in would open your eyes to a cluttered shed - but we know where everything is that's in there ;)

Cheers

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#35 KerrosTalde

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Posted 29 July 2018 - 10:50 PM

Short update.

My mate Sam came by in the morning and helped me move another project engine off the trailer, before filming the startup of the EZ.

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Had gone to a junkyard to find a new rear door for my old Gen 2 RX Lib that's been sitting in the back yard waiting its turn, and came back with an L-24E and five-speed manual box from an R30 Skyline.

 

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It looks like junk at first glance, but hooked a battery to the starter and read healthy comp on all cylinders.
Good score for $100.

 

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Bench space is both the best and worst thing to have.

Good to have because you put stuff on it, bad to have because it ends up collecting all manner of shit. A spare engine for the Beetle and enough parts underneath to build four more.

 

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Actually starting to run out of floor space; might have to look at hanging the VW from the rafters for a while...

I'll move the engine up to the loft for storage once i take a day or three to organise the shed properly.

 

Anyway, onto what matters. Firing the old girl up and seeing if she leaks or not.
Here's the link.

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=L6pr-0yzfC4

 

Success tastes sweet.  :dance: 
I'll be putting rego back on it and driving it around for a few hundred kilometres before dropping the cheap sacrificial oil and changing the filter.

Next up will be working through the errors and bugs that will inevitably rear their heads, now that the ecu has been essentially lobotomised with the auto trans module delete.

 

Anyway, until next time stay tuned and later days.


"Wouldn't it be fun to have a daily that you can take racing, tow a boat with, take the kids to school in, go do the grocery run, and hoon in any weather?"

 

"Why do you think i bought a Subaru then?"


#36 NQRSoobee

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Posted 30 July 2018 - 09:43 PM

Running & sounds really sweet.

Good luck if you have to take it to Regency (I took a brand new 2week old trailer to them and they still picked it to bits).

If you're north side I'll have to keep an eye out for you as you can't miss my poor old faded beast.



#37 KerrosTalde

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Posted 31 July 2018 - 06:29 PM

Running & sounds really sweet.

Good luck if you have to take it to Regency (I took a brand new 2week old trailer to them and they still picked it to bits).

If you're north side I'll have to keep an eye out for you as you can't miss my poor old faded beast.

Cheers, i'll need to get a video of it driving next.
I am not looking forward to having to deal with them if i have to take her there, but i have tried to keep it as close to how it would have been had a manual version been available.
Being an Outback, i'm hoping that they will see that while it has got the engine swapped over, the brakes are the same. Although, i will have to work out what i am doing with the VDC and ABS and sort out the check engine light first.
I'm in the north-east near the hills, but i do drive up north side pretty often, so i'll keep an eye out too.


"Wouldn't it be fun to have a daily that you can take racing, tow a boat with, take the kids to school in, go do the grocery run, and hoon in any weather?"

 

"Why do you think i bought a Subaru then?"


#38 KerrosTalde

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Posted 31 July 2018 - 07:56 PM

Short update. (And a bit of a flashback)

 

Took the old girl to a family friend's workshop on Monday and got him to hook up his Snap-On diagnostics reader and see what that check engine light is about.

 

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Fancy bit of kit.

 

Turns out there were 17 fault codes showing.
Here's the list;

P0719: Brake Switch Circuit Low
P0724: Brake Switch Circuit High
P0736: Reverse Incorrect Ratio
P0763: Shift Solenoid C Electrical
P0768: Shift Solenoid D Electrical
P0801: Reverse Inhibitor Control Circuit
P1086: Tumble Generator Valve Pressure Sensor 2 Low

P1087: Tumble Generator Valve Pressure Sensor 2 High
P1088: Tumble Generator Valve Pressure Sensor 1 Low
P1089: Tumble Generator Valve Pressure Sensor 1 High
P1135: O2 Sensor Circuit (Open) (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

P1199: Differential Pressure Sensor

P1241: 2 Stage Twin Turbo System (1)
P1242: 2 Stage Twin Turbo System (2)
P1596: Auto Transmission Diagnostic Input Signal Circuit High Input
P1698: Engine Torque Control Cut Signal Circuit Low Input
P1719: ECU Communication Circuit

 

And a partridge in a pear tree.

The codes in bold persisted to reappear after deleting the codes and restarting the car every time.

The majority of these codes are because it is freaking out about not having an auto trans and corresponding module to talk to.

 

P1241, P1242... Strange, i don't remember installing turbos... :scratch_one-s_head: 
This might be her way of hinting that she wants to be twin turbo like the Soarer...

In any case, the check engine light is still on with these codes, and the ABS and VDC lights are on too, the latter two simply because i haven't swapped the ABS pump over and hooked up the VDC wiring despite having the module plugged in at the other end. Was more concerned with getting it to start and run without dropping its guts everywhere first.
It also has a stumble and stalls at idle occasionally so the O2 sensor code might actually need to be attended to rather than ignored.

 

The short drive to the workshop and back has told me that the gearbox doesn't like third gear even more with the H6, and the 4.11 finals feel a bit short for the engine. The box is from a crashed 01 Forester that had about 320,000 on it when i got it, and it first started crunching after i picked up my XB wagon back in December 2016.
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The grand old rust bucket was nicknamed Big Bess during the 500km drive back from a farm up past Parachilna.
She's a 1973 XB Falcon 500 that my grandfather owned from new until 1990. The weight of both the trailer and Big Bess was about double what a 2.5 Outback is rated to tow at a guess, and the gearbox crunched ever since.

 

A WRX gearbox/diff is probably going to be on the cards in the near future, as well as a set of 4/2 brakes and a proper exhaust system, but one step at a time.

Keen to see what you all make of the persisting errors and what your suggestions are for what can be done to piss them off.

 

As always, stay tuned and later days.


"Wouldn't it be fun to have a daily that you can take racing, tow a boat with, take the kids to school in, go do the grocery run, and hoon in any weather?"

 

"Why do you think i bought a Subaru then?"


#39 Beckers

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Posted 01 August 2018 - 05:57 PM

The TGV codes, yeah sure it got those too.

You need to find someone with a Subaru Select and scan it.



#40 Barbbachello

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Posted 02 August 2018 - 08:45 AM

As OMR said. No TT or TGV codes should be there so probably safe to ignore them. Would be worth getting an SSM gauge hooked up. S&J would be my first thought for SA


tIeW8DE.png





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