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'99 Liberty RX clutch replacement


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#1 ruckusman

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Posted 25 October 2018 - 10:05 PM

Hi Guys,

 

Looks like I am in the right place to ask this, my Suby needs a new clutch and I'm going to be the one doing the job.

 

Youtube research shows me there's two different approaches, engine out and transmission out, I'm wondering if there's a third possibility

 

Now the engine out looks easier as I don't have a car hoist, ramps or a transmission jack etc, so I'm leaning towards the engine out method.

 

I'm basing my research on this video

 

 

One thing I am pondering is if I remove the radiator which is part of the engine removal process, undo the engine mounts and slide it forwards, is there the possibility of having sufficient space to do it that way?

 

If worse comes to worse I can hire a hoist if necessary anyway.

 

From what I've read on here - Execy clutch kits are the go.

 

I'm on the northern beaches in Sydney is someone can suggest a preferred supplier, otherwise I'll ebay it

 

Car has ~290K kms or thereabouts so I suspect the clutch may likely have been replaced previously, was this model delivered with the dual mass flywheel?

 

I am hoping that it's a single mass flywheel which can just be machined, but I want to be prepared for the worst.

 

Is it a good idea to do the rear main seal whilst I'm in the vicinity?

 

Any other tips you can give me are much appreciated.

 

I should mention BH9 VIN and EJ25 engine in case it's relevant.

 

peace out

 

Glenn



#2 duncanm

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Posted 26 October 2018 - 08:19 AM

- I don't think you'll get away with engine in the bay, sounds like a recipe for dropped engine and busted fingers to me, and I'm pretty sure there's not enough space - borrow or hire a hoist. 

- bog stock exedy on ebay.  OEM are exedy, AFAIK. I got my last one for $250.

- SMF/DMF - you might need to take a punt.  I event went as far as to ask my local Subaru dealer to look up my VIN, and they still couldn't tell me what it would be (turned out to be SMF). Go SMF and source a flywheel if you have to.

- Definitely do every other item like rear main seal, new throwout and pilot bearing while you're in there.

- watch the little throwout bearing springs, and take note how they lock into place. They're a bugger to find if you drop them in a drain (ask me how I know).



#3 ruckusman

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Posted 26 October 2018 - 11:11 AM

Thanks for the reply I thought the engine still in the bay was wishful thinking, but engine out seems a more attractive proposition - I do have jack stands but after doing brake lines on Mum's Barina I have no desire to lay underneath a car for any longer than absolutely necessary. I think you're spot on with the SMF and clearly there's no definitive way to know beforehand without knowing the full service history. I'll just have to suck it and see... If it's already a SMF, are there any wear limits should it need machining, or is that another thing I should just source beforehand? peace out Glenn

#4 El_Freddo

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Posted 26 October 2018 - 07:25 PM

G’day Glenn,

Any SMF will fit the EJ25. If you have a squeak sound at idle that you’re trying to track down it’s most likely a dual mass flywheel. That said, I always thought the dual mass came out from the Gen3s onwards. Is your lib an “early” Gen3 from 1999 with single overhead cam EJ25? If so it’ll be single mass flywheel from factory but it may have already been swapped out.

Last time we did the clutch in my sister’s Gen3 we put a single mass flywheel from a Gen2 in, new clutch disc (~$80) and used the second hand pressure plate from the Gen2 as well (about $70 for both at pick a part). Previous to this clutch change you could start the engine, rip the hand brake, put it in first, let the clutch out and walk away from the subi.

Great time to do the rear main seal. Use genuine only and DO NOT hit/tap the new seal all the way in, only do it so it’s flush with the metal around the seal. You’ll know what I wan when you see the old one. Take a pic of the old one if you need to ;)

I usually opt for gearbox out these days. Much easier than engine out with no coolant etc to deal with. Drive shafts - slip off when the gearbox is on the way out (roll pins removed), and slip them back on as the gearbox goes in. A set of ramps and a motorcycle jack work a trick. Hardest part can be getting the gearbox out from under the car if needed.

Engine out is good if doing other things like head gaskets or cam belt kit work ;)

Cheers

Bennie
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