Suby Club

So most of you know i drove over to SA on Friday night Well on my way i thought i would check the car over at half way just to be safe. turns out the slight pull i had around town turns out to be a major issue when you're doing 800KM's + i'm now in Adelaide and the inside of my tyres are smooth! it has worn down quite a bit also! I cant afford to go grab a new set of T1R's or RE001's just yet and i dont want to buy a set of cheapo tyres so im going to grab some used tyres for the trip back. just some all rounders or whatever they got in my size. BUT my question is, If i get a Wheel Alignment done now (probably with the new used tyres) when i get new tyres back in melb in a few weeks, will i need to get the alignment done again? do the tyres make a difference? and how much should a alignment cost? (all 4 not just front) i dont want to get it done and then have to get it done again when i get new tyres so if its going to be out when i get some new rubber i wont bother doing it now as the used tyres are cheap enough for me not to bother about wearing them out on the inside.

i think you're looking into it too much. it's not like your car has any worthwhile adjustments to be had for any reasonable handling gain. unless you have any significant handling mods? buy tyres. (align if you can't keep off the guard rails or oncoming traffic) drive home. buy new tyres. align. a good alignment of all fours I usually get for around $60-$70. Find a joint that's reccomended. Not the next bridgestone/bob jane

Hi, As stated an alignment will only cost a touch north of a pineapple, so don't skimp on it. Effe having a blow out half way home mate. Cheers, Nik

yeah on closer inspection im going to have wheel alignment done and a full suspension check while im here and then get some new rubber back in melb. i was expecting more for the alignment so sub$100 is not so bad.

Ty, Once the alignment is set, it wont change by fitting tyres. As you have probably seen, the heads are fitted to the rims not the tyres. Cheers

Ty,
Once the alignment is set, it wont change by fitting tyres. As you have probably seen, the heads are fitted to the rims not the tyres.
Cheers

yeah i know but i was not 100% on how it was done so my thought was if the tyres have worn slightly towards the inside would getting it aligned to these tyres cause it to be aligned to counter that and in changing tyres it would cause the new ones to wear incorrectly also. but i was thinking it would be $140+

ok here are the results. BEFORE: AFTER: FL Camber: -0.47 -0.47 FR Camber: -1.03 -0.32 FL Toe In: -2.20 -0.00 FR Toe In: -1.14 -0.10 Apparently they cant adjust the FL Camber any more because its lowered. but in all honestly until i did this long trip it was fine, tyres were wearing evenly as i often head up the hills and give it a bit around the corners. this was just a quick going over though as the rear was not done, new tyres are in the works as soon as i get back to Melb but its tracking heaps better now as it is. going to book in for a complete suspension check next week and new rubber. Quick question, what are others running? i am inclined to keep the camber a bit aggressive as i do like the way it was handling up the hills and i dont foresee myself going on another long interstate trip again before i sell the Gen1 and buy the Family boat (VY/VZ or Aurion)

Looks like it had too much toe out. Probably why it chewed the inside of the front tyres. I'm running about (maybe just under)1deg neg camber and still wearing the outside edges so I will be going more aggressive. Go VY over VZ. Aurion is a bit of a yawn to drive but should be bulletproof.

Go VY over VZ.
Aurion is a bit of a yawn to drive but should be bulletproof.

i liked the Sportivo, buying something that i cant fiddle with may be a good thing lol (looks at the case that is Mark vs the Gen4)

anyway, on the way back had a slit second decision to take the return trip along the coast MT Gambier and the rest of the coast...
well the tyres really need replacing now lol, i tried to beat the sun through the Great Ocean Road but got to Appollo bay and started to loose, from there onwards it was pitch black...
Most fun i have had along the coast ever!
no traffic, high bead the soums, low temps annd of waves crashing on the rocks.

anyway throwing the car around a bit the tyres wore more on the outer edges so i didn't wear the inside much more, am going to grab some new Toyo T1R from Tyrepower Hawthorn $189ea on Saturday.
was going to get the RE001's ($165) but the treadwear is 280 on the T1R's vs 220 on RE001. and i know the T1R so.. tried and trusted

Back to Suspension though, Where do you go Jase? your local and no doubt have found somewhere good, going for a 4W alignment.

Errrrrr...... I have a machine at work.........for training purposes. You could enroll in a 12 week pre apprenticeship course and then I could do it for you for free! My mate uses Edgars Tyre Power (on Blackburn Rd just past FTG rd.) for his workshop and has been quite happy with them. He's tried most in the area. $189 Faaaaarrrk... I was was quoted $267+tax FCUKIN TRADE price when I was looking at them last year! We are talking 215/45-17 aren't we?? I prefer the Toyo because they are directional (can turn them on the rims) where as the RE001s are asymetrical and can only be mounted one way.

Errrrrr......
I have a machine at work.........for training purposes.
You could enroll in a 12 week pre apprenticeship course and then I could do it for you for free!

My mate uses Edgars Tyre Power (on Blackburn Rd just past FTG rd.) for his workshop and has been quite happy with them. He's tried most in the area.

$189 Faaaaarrrk...
I was was quoted $267+tax FCUKIN TRADE price when I was looking at them last year!
We are talking 215/45-17 aren't we??

I prefer the Toyo because they are directional (can turn them on the rims) where as the RE001s are asymetrical and can only be mounted one way.

Ummm, Need another Suby to show the class a 4wd alignment (i can even bring in a badly worn tyre lol)
I should call Edgars cause its literally around the corner.
While i was down in Geelong today i called around and Hawthorn was the cheapest but i never called the one closest to me lol.
I did pop into the one in Geelong and he quoted $225ea lol, i said WHAT! hawthorn can do em for $189.. he looked at me, pulled out the calculator and had a fiddle then said he can do it but he wont be happy about it, i thought it best not to bother with him there when he said that lol

also this is 205/50/16, since when did you get 17's?

And.. i thought the T1R's still had inside and outside? i only ever rotated them front to back.

since when did you get 17's?

Since yonks ago!

You have seen it with 17's I'm sure.
Maybe you didn't notice! The bugeye rims look almost the same as the RX 16s.

Camber shouldn't wear your tyres, too much toe out will wear inside edges, too much toe in will wear outside edges. Also, if you can't adjust something I would be checking suspension components for wear, check suspension arm bushes, struts, etc. I have run 2 degrees on my legacy for 8 years, never worn the inside edges. My outside edges wear from excessive corner speed. Also remember that a normal alignment in Aus should give a bit of toe in, it helps in having responsive steering and when right should prove an issue to tyre wear. And in answer to your original question, no change tyres won't affect your alignment, but when you are spending $800+ on a set of tyres, $60 for a 4 wheel alignment is chicken feed. You should also have your alignment re-done every 10,000km, or 20,000 at most, otherwise before you know it you will have stuffed tyres again, only halfway through their life. I have to get an alignment done every 2 months or so as the roads around my area at absolutely shiteful. Regards Paul

I have run 2 degrees on my legacy for 8 years, never worn the inside edges.
My outside edges wear from excessive corner speed.

I run 2 deg all round aswell without any dramas, if anything I reckon the tyres wear better at 2 deg than whatever's std.

Also remember that a normal alignment in Aus should give a bit of toe in, it helps in having responsive steering and when right should prove an issue to tyre wear.

Toe-in provides better straight line stability, toe-out will cause the car to turn in quicker.

Caster, Camber & Toe explained

I run zero toe. Specs on a Gen III is -3mm to + 3mm.

I tried -2mm all round, was very stable @ high speed but found it didn't turn in to my liking, have settled on -1mm all round.

The camber i was happy with, prior to doing the long trip. i will probably return to having 1deg camber but i will keep the toe neutral for now. the guy said the settings would have be hell though on the tyres driving straight for so long on very rough rd's but as i wont be doing that trip again in MY car im going to keep it setup for city and hills driving. I'll take a photo of the tyres when they are removed just to show how bad it actually was but i can say 100% it was the trip to SA that did it. the week before i actually checked all the tyres and they were fine. as for wear, i had the pedders 28 point check done but all came out good (supprised actually thought they would have picked something for me to spend money on lol) all they picked was a leaking rack but that was actually from the resivor as it is leaking a tad and dripped a bit.

ty next time u go past a pedders place call in and ask if they have camber bolts for your car,(camber bolt replaces top bolt on lower strut,where it bolts onto the hub. can give u upto a degree and a half neg camber if needed) they have a special spline on them ,once installed you can adjust the angle of the wheel to suit.

camber bolt replaces top bolt on lower strut,where it bolts onto the hub.

Lower hole in the front struts.
Either (usually top) hole in the rear - that's if you don't have a multi-link rear end.

After 2 years, I think he's fixed it.