220 replies to this topic

[allpaw4]

Hey peoples. Here it is, THNKB4’s build thread. I apologise in advance for the long post…

I’ve owned this car for 4 years now, and it has never been the most reliable thing on earth… However it has provided a platform for me to throw seemingly endless amounts of money at, and learn quite a lot of lessons in the dos and don’ts of modifying a motor vehicle.

Now, the vehicle in question – an MY02 ADM Liberty B4. When I bought her, she had very few mods. She had 150 odd thou on the clock, and was felt very quick compared to the old R31 GX skyline and MY00 Liberty RX.
Mods were:
3” Cat back exhaust
RDA Slotted front rotors
MRT Sport pads F&R
Standard turbos slightly fiddled mechanically to move the ‘surge’ experienced with the B4’s standard tune from the normal ~100km/h to ~130 km/h by S&J Auto. (This was done before S&J’s had access to the ecutek tuning)
Tinted windows


The first change I made was to order the personalised plates, and also bolt on the 240mm Lightforce spotlights I had on my RX. Lets see you try and flash me now you pricks!



Then, 3 weeks after I bought her, I took her out after a thorough washing, and No. 4 big end decided to finally let go. Grrr. No hope of warranty, as it was a private sale, and there was no point having a go at the bloke who sold it to me, as I had declined to get it RAA inspected before I bought it. So in reality, my own stupid fault. Lesson learned.

Fast forward 12 months. After receiving about 5 grand in back pay for working shift work as a 4th year apprentice, plus all the saving that had been going on, its time for a new engine. Several emails to and from S&J later, and its all sorted out. Take it down to Adelaide, drop it at the workshop, and head back for a block of work. Catch a lift back down to pick it up a few weeks later. Excellent.
I walked away minus $8020, but I had a car with a brand new engine. Specs as follows:
Brand new genuine EJ207
Genuine MLS Gasket kit.
New timing belt, water pump etc
Heads thoroughly cleaned, one stage removed from porting.
100k service on the new engine.
There was a list, but I don’t have the receipt in front of me…

24 hours later, and its had its 1000k run-in. (with about 18 hours worth driving, pretty much non-stop. All variable load/revs, as it should be done, not just a trip home and back!) Get it serviced, and I’m good to take it home. Couldn’t afford to have it tuned at this stage, I thought it could wait until I could afford it. A few months later while in Adelaide, I had S&J’s check out how it was running, as it was booked in for a power run to satisfy my curiosity.
A rather standard 128.9kW. I don’t think I have a digital copy of this at the moment, but if someone argues, I can take a photo of the sheet and post it up…

Ok, 6 months later. After a rather spirited run with the mates and family, it decides to die again. Seriously annoyed now. 23,000k out of a brand new engine. This is bullshit! After a few calls, it will need to be warranted by S&J’s, but there are the standard workmanship/product failure checks to fulfil before the claim will be upheld. I can’t afford to get this done in the short term as an apprentice. Damn it. So after stewing on it for a while, I work out that I’m going to get screwed if I chase this (The engine will be deemed not under warranty, and then I have to pay for the hours used for the removal of the engine as well as a replacement), and so decide to leave it and get another engine just to get it mobile, and then sell it. This plan lasted about 2 months.
After that I decided to keep it, and start looking on import monster for some nice goodies. As I was thinking about throwing a 2.5L into it at this stage, I went straight for some brembos, and also handling bits. The goal at this stage was to make it look like an S401, but make it go so much harder than one it wasn’t funny. So swathes of bits were bought. STi this, STi that, and some other JDM goodness.
In addition to the pictures, there were some STi Mcgard locknuts & braided lines, a few Autometer Cobalt series gauges, a black/blue Apexi turbo timer, ported VF32/33 turbos plus a few other bits. All up there was more than 15 grand thrown into parts for it.





















Now, I’ve fitted all these nice bits that have taken me 6 – 8 months to acquire, I need an engine. After trawling the ozliberty forums and various wrecking yards around the country for a complete motor (at a decent price), I finally found one. Out of a 99/00 JDM TT (to my knowledge this was an 8:1 compression 20R block also, not a 208). After purchasing this, and collecting it from the transport crowd, I spent the next 2 or 3 weeks reading and slowly pulling my old one out and installing it. I know this is a long time for a remove and install of an engine, but this was the first one I had done since the replacement of my first cars engine – an 83 mazda 323 FWD. That took 3 days in 45 degree temps. This was going to be a bit longer…












After finally finishing the engine swap, it was time to change the fuel pump. Switch the stock unit with a Walbro 500hp one, and all good. There were some issues I had with this, but they were my own silly fault, and usually revolved around electrical plugs that I hadn’t reconnected after the install. Once this was sorted, I ran into another issue. It had spark, fuel and air. ECU was getting readings off all the sensors, and seemed to be doing its thing correctly. Another few days were lost chasing that problem. Turned out to be the cam gear and crank pulley. The sensor pickup points were slightly different on the new motor compared to the old. So, the 207 got piled into the boot, and it went down for these to be switched, and also to be tuned.


Ok, happy with those results! Went in with 112kW (down due to the lower compression ratio and the ported turbos) but came out with a rather satisfying 155kW. A/F ratios are nice, and yes, I could get more power if they were moved up a little, but I live in the outback, so the safety factor needs to be a bit bigger here than in the city. Also, Sean didn’t know that the turbos were ported at this stage, so the tuning was somewhat conservative. VOD was almost gone, with it simply being just 2 shoves in the back, you feel the primary wind up, then it flattens off, and then the secondary grabs you by the balls and pulls you back again. I know the design was flawed, and why they got rid of it, but I love how that power was delivered.

A month or 2 later, heading home from work, it lost all power after going round a corner fairly hard. Limped it home, and had a brief look to see what had gone wrong. Missed the coil pack dangling by the wiring in the dark. Needed to get to work the next day, so had to drive it to work on 3 cylinders. Should have caught a lift, but no-one likes to get up to drop someone at work by 5.30 in the morning…
Anyways, that night I had a harder look, and found the coil pack. Put it back on, tightened the bolt and also checked the other coil packs just in case. It was better, but still not right. Once days off rolled round, I went over it rather well. Plug was fouled, but not excessively. Changed this, but to no avail. After another week and much reading & talking to people in the know, decided to take the coil off and check it over – turns out that a coil pack doesn’t like running without a plug connected for any length of time. Absolutely fried the coil pack. Replaced this with a spare off the old engine, and away it went, good as gold. However, not long after this, the engine decided it had had enough, and down it went again.

Very much annoyed at it now, but I’ve spent too much money on it to throw it all away now. As much as I love the twins, I’ve had enough of trying to make it work. After a word to Sean, I found out that he wasn’t willing to do the electronics part of the single turbo conversion. Everything else he was good for, but not the electrics. From here I spoke to our good friends over at AM Auto, and here it was decided that a Ver. 7 STi conversion would be the best bang for buck. However, when finances didn’t happen as quickly as I wanted, and someone else snapped up the package I was eyeing off, I was left with a Ver. 8 STi Spec C package. For an extra thousand bucks, I was told the twin scroll would be a much better option than the version 7. Better torque, on boost much faster, and much better drivability. So, my beloved got towed to Adelaide, put on a truck to Brisbane, then Alan organised a tilt-tray to take it from Brisbane to his workshop. 2 weeks later I’m warned of the standard boost control not coping with cold weather, and asked if I approved of putting in a bleed valve to control this. I said yes naturally. A week later I fly up to pick it up, straight after night shift, and begin to drive it back home to SA. Total trip time of 4 days, and covered a lot of kms. Total bill was just shy of 10 grand, but that included having the Brant alarm removed, new dump pipe and also a new clutch fitted. I was very much overjoyed. Not only does it work well, but it has large amounts of power… Anything other than clean bitumen, and it wants to spin 1st and 2nd gear…  Lets see how long the gearbox lasts…



Right, after a month or so, time to get it tuned. A quick trip to Adelaide, and back to see Sean. Went in with 188kW, and came out with 195kW. Very nice! It was at this stage I actually found out that it was a Spec C, and Sean very nicely put in dual boost maps and also enabled launch control. Very cool!







Again, there could be more power if the A/F was brought up a smidge, but again, better to be safe than sorry, especially with the climate I live in. Nothing below 40 for the next week… Welcome to the desert!

And now we are sitting at the present. Still quite a bit I’d like to do on her, but there have been a few changes on the scene for me, so she has taken a bit of a back step on the priority listing for now. We’ll see whether I do more suspension mods or get a gearbox first… Depends if I break her… 

Sorry for the massive posting, but that’s what a build thread is for hey?
Any questions, fire away.

Cheers,
Ben

[DukeNik'em]

Reading lots of words isn't my favourite thing, but your Lib looks beautiful, that's alot coming from a GEN III hater. Looks like you thought your mods out. I rikey the new scoop....

Pink badge ey? Hello Sailor.

Nick

[allpaw4]

Thanks Nick - it does seem like there are the people who like the new scoop, and others that hate it. But hey - a little bit of performance gain in the form of more airflow, and it looks a lot tougher with it too. I'm not a real big fan of being pulled over and defected, so most of my mods have been based on subtle looks, if any change at all. Not scraping the ground, nor insanely loud, still have stock BOV, etc. Still chasing the 'factory' look. As for the pink, if you look, theres pink in quite a few places, its just the obvious thing is the front badge - Once I get a mesh grille, it will be changed back to a badge with the body colour background though.

Cheers,
Ben

[DukeNik'em]

Thanks Nick - it does seem like there are the people who like the new scoop, and others that hate it. But hey - a little bit of performance gain in the form of more airflow, and it looks a lot tougher with it too. I'm not a real big fan of being pulled over and defected, so most of my mods have been based on subtle looks, if any change at all. Not scraping the ground, nor insanely loud, still have stock BOV, etc. Still chasing the 'factory' look. As for the pink, if you look, theres pink in quite a few places, its just the obvious thing is the front badge - Once I get a mesh grille, it will be changed back to a badge with the body colour background though.

Cheers,
Ben

Respect to you mate. Factory/tuning house look is what I've always chased with my cars aswell, plus all my family do the same. Albeit the exhausts do get loud, the rest of the car is kept looking stock, or if parts are put on they're factory. I can't stand when people bastardise a car with stupid bolt on items, just brings down the make and model. Stickers all over the rear windows or stupid aftermarket bodykits....blurgh. A nice subtle, clean look always impresses people more.

Nick

[RX25SE]

Good read Ben.



Very jealous!
*wants that power curve*

[Delete This Account]

Fantastic write-up mate! Thanks for sharing!

[aekOne]

great write up Ben. quite a journey and transformation it's gone through!

[Trent]

Nice. Good write up. Bloody hell it's cost you some dollars! And I'm keen on one of those scoops aye.

[AussieTemplar]

Looks great! Any idea where I could source one of those front bumpers and how much.. but I'm guessing they wont fit REV A-C..

[aekOne]

i reckon you'd be looking at $550 - $750 if you can find one

[allpaw4]

Cheers guys, it has been a huge journey. Not that its going to stop here though!
Couldn't agree more Nick - so many nice cars around, then they destroy them by putting obnoxious parts on and a shopping list down the side of them...
Power curve is very much awesome RX25SE - I like the fact that the power is still going up at 7200 rpm...
Skywarp - Scoop was got through import monster, direct from K2 Gear - its a replica of the S401, due to not being able to source it direct from Subaru (they will not hand out 401 parts unless you have proof of registration & ownership of a 401). Be warned, not cheap - I think it was almost 500 without paint.
Same deal with the bumper AussieTemplar - Although yes, it can be got in Rev A-C. But again, not cheap. Approx a grand before paint.
These are fibreglass items, but the paint shop I got to do them said that they were the highest quality aftermarket parts he'd seen. They are a direct fit - no messing around trying to mount it, it just fits.

[Trent]

Skywarp - Scoop was got through import monster, direct from K2 Gear - its a replica of the S401, due to not being able to source it direct from Subaru (they will not hand out 401 parts unless you have proof of registration & ownership of a 401). Be warned, not cheap - I think it was almost 500 without paint.

They can keep it at that price. I'd rather go fmic.


Still looks tits though.

[allpaw4]

Yep, damned expensive, but I'm after a specific look, and don't mind paying for the parts I want... Can understand that call though. FMIC is better again, especially if you've still got the B4 I/C.

[AussieTemplar]

Same deal with the bumper AussieTemplar - Although yes, it can be got in Rev A-C. But again, not cheap. Approx a grand before paint.
These are fibreglass items, but the paint shop I got to do them said that they were the highest quality aftermarket parts he'd seen. They are a direct fit - no messing around trying to mount it, it just fits.

Where's the best place to source these aftermarket items. I'm in dying need of an aftermarket front bumper as my current one looks like shit. I'm not going to pay $1000, but I'm sure there would be something else possibly $500? Sorry for thread hijack, cheers!

[Shiv]

Thats a fantastic build you've done there. I love to see it when people such as yourselves go all out with carefully thought out mods like this.

Nick -- check out ImportMonster.com.au for new bumpers or any other parts you may want.

[AussieTemplar]

Nick -- check out ImportMonster.com.au for new bumpers or any other parts you may want.

Haha I know that's always an option but something local is preferred. Price wise I guess I won't be paying that much difference if I went with ImportMonster/Local.. but import monster is slow boat and there is probably always a risk involved incase the part isn't exactly as 'translated'. Thanks though Shiv! I'll probably just end up with an Import Monster import anyway haha.

[Alex]

Neat car.

I like your Brembo calliper covers.

[buzzda]

great write up mate, car's come a long way.

[Mosti]

Very nice build, pitty about the other engines thoough. Gotta be happy with a V.8 Spec C.
Is that a genuine S401 front bar or is it the K2 Gear Replica? I want your engine brakes and bumper

[buzzda]

Is that a genuine S401 front bar or is it the K2 Gear Replica? I want your engine brakes and bumper

Replica... Bloody nice bar tho.

Skywarp - Scoop was got through import monster, direct from K2 Gear - its a replica of the S401, due to not being able to source it direct from Subaru (they will not hand out 401 parts unless you have proof of registration & ownership of a 401). Be warned, not cheap - I think it was almost 500 without paint.
Same deal with the bumper AussieTemplar - Although yes, it can be got in Rev A-C. But again, not cheap. Approx a grand before paint. These are fibreglass items, but the paint shop I got to do them said that they were the highest quality aftermarket parts he'd seen. They are a direct fit - no messing around trying to mount it, it just fits.