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Rear parcel shelf speakers [gen3]

AussieTemplar's Photo AussieTemplar 08 May 2011

Hey all,

Got my sub/amp installed a while ago, it's nice for the bass it produces. Previous owner apparently replaced all the door/tweeter speakers inside the cabin aswell, so music sounds great.
Although, I want more.

I noticed that there is a cutout for a 6x9 on one side, and what looks like a much smaller size speaker on the other side of the parcel shelf. Whats the deal? Why didn't they have a cutout for two 6x9s..?
Someone told me that B4's have a 6x9 on the rear parcel shelf. Is this what it is for?

Reckon it's worth putting a 6x9 in there to help my sub out with bass, I mean most of the bass gets lost in the boot anyway, unless I have the arm rest down on the rear seat.

Cheers for any help.

Nick.
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alexGT's Photo alexGT 08 May 2011

6x9 are a poor man's sub. do not use them if you have a sub.

you want splits in the front and some fairly simple 2 ways in the back doors, you want the sound stage at the FRONT of the car where you are.

edit: if you can't hear bass in the car with a sub something isn't set up right.
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AussieTemplar's Photo AussieTemplar 08 May 2011

6x9 are a poor man's sub. do not use them if you have a sub.

you want splits in the front and some fairly simple 2 ways in the back doors, you want the sound stage at the FRONT of the car where you are.

edit: if you can't hear bass in the car with a sub something isn't set up right.


I can hear the bass, but I feel it's restricted in the boot/sub box. My old man is a long time audiophile and reckons two 6x9s on the parcel shelf would sound better than as 12" sub in a box in the boot, as the 6x9s would get the entire boot for displacement.
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Hypnotic's Photo Hypnotic 08 May 2011

in the B4 it's a 5x7" sub that is connected to the macintosh system.
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AussieTemplar's Photo AussieTemplar 08 May 2011

in the B4 it's a 5x7" sub that is connected to the macintosh system.


Ahh.. so a 6x9 wont fit in that cutout..
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Ben_20EJT's Photo Ben_20EJT 08 May 2011

there must be something up with ur sub, today i put a sub in a mates gen3 sedan and yer no dramers with base.

Also, if u want more base, get a set up like mine....
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DukeNik'em's Photo DukeNik'em 08 May 2011

Also, if u want more base, get a set up like mine....


Posted Image

Hahahaha, you kids with your subwoofers.
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AussieTemplar's Photo AussieTemplar 08 May 2011

Posted Image

Hahahaha, you kids with your subwoofers.


I just want a nice sounding system.. I had my sub turned up tenfold higher than what it should of been for about half a week before turning it righttt down.
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Ben_20EJT's Photo Ben_20EJT 08 May 2011

yer, befor i took all the system out to sell my car, i had a manual tune diel mounted near the gear shift so you could tune the subs bitween shifts, worked so good, i could shake the rear vision mirror off or just have it queit. Id recomend investing in one.
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CodeBurn3r's Photo CodeBurn3r 08 May 2011

Pull the door cards off and look what you have up front, i am currently installing some new Splits up front.. trial fitment saw a HUGE improvement in Bass in the cabin!
with saying that, i only have a tiny 10in sub in the boot and tuned correctly the Bass from that is more than suitable in the cabin.

i would say something is not quite right with your configuration..
also, i have found the speakers in the rear do SFA for bass, the boot is a huge cavity for even 6x9's to produce bass.
i just have a 6.5in set of pioneers in there to give me some depth, but still.. up front is where its at!
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allpaw4's Photo allpaw4 09 May 2011

If you have very little bass, the previous owner probably got the polarity wrong on one of the speakers. As 3 push inwards, the other is pulling outwards, counteracting. Check this before you go further. Next, check the polarity of the sub - for the same reasons.

As far as the cutouts, yes, one is a 5x7, and the other is a 6" and has the amplifier for the radio aerial mounted on the top-side of the plate (I haven't actually seen this, but thats whats in the manual). With a little bit of rooting around, you could move that, and then use spacers for the 6x9's. However if you properly tune the setup and use a bit of dynamat or equivelant, you shouldn't need them.

Sorry Alex, I disagree. When used properly, they aren't the poor mans sub at all. Nothing can be used to effectively replicate the frequencies a sub produces. 6x9's can be used to take out the lower frequencies that the 6 inch standard speakers have trouble producing (read: 60 - 200 Hz). If you have your high pass filters set on the front splits at either 100 or 125 Hz, the rear door high pass filter set at 125 or 150 Hz (the rear speakers are not very good at all at reproducing bass), and then install the 6x9's and set their high pass filter at either 50 or 63 Hz, depending on the quality of the 6x9's. The sub should have the low pass filter set at either 80 or 100 Hz (although I have mine set at 125 Hz, but I don't listen to it loud as hell where it will need to be reduced to keep the clarity).

This is for a setup where you are using stock door speakers and an aftermarket H/U and amps. Aftermarket speakers are much higher quality than stock (general price saving by the factories), and you get what you pay for. Read the spec sheet on what the new speakers can do frequency wise to work out your HPF and LPF points, and also the rate at which it drops - be it 6, 12, 18 or 24 db. Also, those filter points will be different if you don't have 6x9's. You'll loose a lot of lows if you use that setup with out them.

This is the setup that suits my tastes. I'm not saying its the perfect setup, and acoustically it probably isn't the best, but I enjoy listening to my tunes with a lot of crossover between speakers, it helps eliminate certain frequencies being missed.

Hopefully this helps!

Cheers,
Ben
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AussieTemplar's Photo AussieTemplar 09 May 2011

Perfect. Just the information I was looking for. I'll try to sus it all out this weekend. Thanks mate!!!
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