148 replies to this topic

[Nizza]

stage 1 begins...









will be attempting the gearbox install over my long weekend (without the dccd wiring loom for the moment) should be fun

so far ive just prepared everything for tomorow. just cracked a few g box bolts, removed starter motor, cracked hub nuts, disconnected sensors/plugs and thats about all i can handle for tonite

[Nizza]

ok, run into a little problem here:

the new V6 gear box has male guide pins (2) whereas the old V4 box has the receiving holes. so now i have the guide pins sticking out of the engine and the new box.

(edit) or are these pins just 'stuck' in the gbox from the donor engine??

What do i do? can i tap out the guide pins from the new box? pics soon so u can see what im talking about

[Marv]

Ideally, you tap the dowels in the gearbox out. Now,when you do this you need to get a dremel or very fine sandpaper in there and polish the chamfered edge back to be super-smooth. Any burring or scratches on that will stop the box from going together. You want to do the same to the pins in the motor, making them ABSOLUTELY smooth. Get a set of cheap vernier calipers from Bunnings and measure the dowel to make sure it is MAX. 10mm diam.

[Nizza]

yeh had to drop the box, thankfully the pins tapped out pretty easily and on your advise marv i sanded the holes and pins for an easy fit. however i decided not to mount the box just yet seeing as my brakes arrived which im not entirely happy with their condition

heres some pics

[Nizza]

Old box out:






heres the new box almost in...









heres the diff out then new one installed: (the mighty VN in the background)





and here are the brakes, they have quiet a bit of rust on them, espesially the rears in the handbrake assembly.
My plan is to spray the shit out of the inside with rust killer/converter to rid it of all that flakey shit? sound good? any suggestions

[Marv]

That's how most import brakes come. Spray the bejeesus out of it with Inox and clean them up with a metal scourer/light sandpaper. Once you've done that, give it a prime and rattle can black.

Surface rust is nothing to worry about.

[Nizza]

spent this arvo cleaning up 1 front and 1 rear brake, there starting to look respectable. had a mate come over so we had another futile attempt to fully install this stupid gearbox, but ran into yet more problems. seeing as this RA box is larger than the old im having issues with clearance from the dumpipe/turbo my just millimetres. nevertheless i believe the turbo must be removed, but looks like a major pain in the arse.

so, my questions are:

• has anyone run into the same problem upgrading boxes?
• is there an easyway to remove turbo/pipe setup? (apart from disconnecting oil, coolant lines and 50bolts

btw already rounded one of the turbo/dump pipe nuts so not happy jan!

[fatcat67]

Physically the boxes are the same size, so it's more than likely an alignment issue.
Easy way........Ha!

[Marv]

There is no easy way to remove the turbo and up-pipe. You'll most likely also have to drop the headers off the bottom of the motor to give you more space.

Frank is right in that the 5MT cases are the same size. There is no difference there - you must have it aligned incorrectly.

For turbo/dump pipe nuts/bolts you NEED to make 110% sure that the spanner (and a good quality spanner/etc) is definitely seated on the object you're trying to turn before cranking it. I also find I need hex-sided sockets, rather than the normal 12-pointed socket. I also use Crows Feet tools as they grip much harder. Another option is to hammer a 1mm smaller socket onto the nut to get it to turn. You'll need to replace this one when you get it off, though.

Hex vs 12-point


Crows Feet

[Grant]

Had a similar problem just recently with a rounded nut on the dump pipe...what a freakin nightmare. We attacked it with a hacksaw, cold chisel, hammer, and eventually a dremel to get it off. Depending on which nut it is and how much room you've got you might be able to get one of these bad boys in there, you hammer them on then put a large socket over it to undo it:

[implanted4]

hi..

your issue will be the intermediate bolt hole near the turbo. youll have to grind some metal off to make it fit, happens with most 8 bolt boxes into 4 bolt cars..( 4 bolt boxes dont have this section, its flat with no bolt hole)

just hit it with a flapper whieel on an angle grinder and take 2-3mm metal off the entire corner along the length of the bolt hole..

wont compromise the bell housing strength..

btw, this will not need removal of the turbo to do.. just the box out again

[Scuba-Roo]

Depending on which nut it is and how much room you've got you might be able to get one of these bad boys in there, you hammer them on then put a large socket over it to undo it:

Or you can use 3/8 drive socket utensil's

Or metrinch spanners and sockets.

[Nizza]

hi..

your issue will be the intermediate bolt hole near the turbo. youll have to grind some metal off to make it fit, happens with most 8 bolt boxes into 4 bolt cars..( 4 bolt boxes dont have this section, its flat with no bolt hole)

just hit it with a flapper whieel on an angle grinder and take 2-3mm metal off the entire corner along the length of the bolt hole..

wont compromise the bell housing strength..

btw, this will not need removal of the turbo to do.. just the box out again

yeh thats the exact issue, sounds ALOT easier that trying those rusty seized ass turbo bolts, i think ill be giving it ago this weekend

cheers

also thanks for all the bolt removing info, will unfortunatly come in handy in the future

[Nizza]

this morning when i looked at the gearbox i wussed out and decided NOT to shave the gbox for clearance. instead i bit the bullet and decied to take the turbo off, turns out the dump pipe had to be removed and the turbo LOOSENED just enuf for a few mm play, which meant i didnt have to diconnect any lines/hoses or headers


the whole bolt came out of the turbo.shows how stuck on the nut was ay...





rusty turbo OFF and bolts loosened




heres the gearbox finally mated up with the engine!




and the rest of the drive line just about fully assembled

[Nizza]

What do i have to do to get the speed sensor working from this new box? this one is a 3 wire the old one was 2

[Scott]

What do i have to do to get the speed sensor working from this new box? this one is a 3 wire the old one was 2

just screw the old sensor that suits your loom into the box

[Nizza]

sweet, thought so. cheers scott

[fatdon]

nice little set up so far mate all seems very similar in my garage at the moment, there is always something that will go in twice or if ur really lucky three times thats when u know ur an unqualified genius looking at the bolts u just did up thinking hmmm better get those little fellas off again.

u probably all know this but just in case.....especially with exhaust or brake lines you should give the nut a little crack in the clockwise direction ensuring the tool ur using is secured on the nut properly first of course, in most cases that will save u many a nut or bolt rounding.

marv....i am impressed with the look of the parra coloured weapons. what are they? are they irwin item?

good luck with the loom on the dccd and the rest of the build. well done on those braids.

[Grant]

marv....i am impressed with the look of the parra coloured weapons. what are they? are they irwin item?

That was me actually

Yeah irwin make them: http://www.irwin.com...bolt-extractors

[fatdon]

yeah sorry grant. just had a qucik sqiz and marvs sig had me in that next hole!

didnt realise irwin had a catalogue like that, very handy.