MY98 track/rally build
#41
Posted 02 December 2011 - 09:38 PM
will be attempting the gearbox install over my long weekend (without the dccd wiring loom for the moment) should be fun
so far ive just prepared everything for tomorow. just cracked a few g box bolts, removed starter motor, cracked hub nuts, disconnected sensors/plugs and thats about all i can handle for tonite
#42
Posted 05 December 2011 - 10:07 PM
the new V6 gear box has male guide pins (2) whereas the old V4 box has the receiving holes. so now i have the guide pins sticking out of the engine and the new box.
(edit) or are these pins just 'stuck' in the gbox from the donor engine??
What do i do? can i tap out the guide pins from the new box? pics soon so u can see what im talking about
#43
Posted 06 December 2011 - 07:03 AM
#44
Posted 06 December 2011 - 09:44 PM
heres some pics
#45
Posted 06 December 2011 - 10:13 PM
heres the new box almost in...
heres the diff out then new one installed: (the mighty VN in the background)
and here are the brakes, they have quiet a bit of rust on them, espesially the rears in the handbrake assembly.
My plan is to spray the shit out of the inside with rust killer/converter to rid it of all that flakey shit? sound good? any suggestions
#46
Posted 07 December 2011 - 07:17 AM
Surface rust is nothing to worry about.
#47
Posted 08 December 2011 - 09:52 PM
so, my questions are:
- has anyone run into the same problem upgrading boxes?
- is there an easyway to remove turbo/pipe setup? (apart from disconnecting oil, coolant lines and 50bolts
#48
Posted 09 December 2011 - 10:13 AM
Easy way........Ha!
In this country, you gotta make the money first.
Then when you get the money, you get the power.
Then when you get the power, then you get the women.
#49
Posted 09 December 2011 - 11:43 AM
Frank is right in that the 5MT cases are the same size. There is no difference there - you must have it aligned incorrectly.
For turbo/dump pipe nuts/bolts you NEED to make 110% sure that the spanner (and a good quality spanner/etc) is definitely seated on the object you're trying to turn before cranking it. I also find I need hex-sided sockets, rather than the normal 12-pointed socket. I also use Crows Feet tools as they grip much harder. Another option is to hammer a 1mm smaller socket onto the nut to get it to turn. You'll need to replace this one when you get it off, though.
Hex vs 12-point
Crows Feet
#50
Posted 09 December 2011 - 12:07 PM
#51
Posted 09 December 2011 - 12:12 PM
your issue will be the intermediate bolt hole near the turbo. youll have to grind some metal off to make it fit, happens with most 8 bolt boxes into 4 bolt cars..( 4 bolt boxes dont have this section, its flat with no bolt hole)
just hit it with a flapper whieel on an angle grinder and take 2-3mm metal off the entire corner along the length of the bolt hole..
wont compromise the bell housing strength..
btw, this will not need removal of the turbo to do.. just the box out again
wtf?
here we go again.
whinge whinge whinge
Respect your elder members. They've endured many a time stupid questions like yours. They irritate us.
#52
Posted 09 December 2011 - 04:04 PM
Depending on which nut it is and how much room you've got you might be able to get one of these bad boys in there, you hammer them on then put a large socket over it to undo it:
Or you can use 3/8 drive socket utensil's
Or metrinch spanners and sockets.
Subyclub, The place where random internet weirdos become good mates
#53
Posted 09 December 2011 - 04:35 PM
hi..
your issue will be the intermediate bolt hole near the turbo. youll have to grind some metal off to make it fit, happens with most 8 bolt boxes into 4 bolt cars..( 4 bolt boxes dont have this section, its flat with no bolt hole)
just hit it with a flapper whieel on an angle grinder and take 2-3mm metal off the entire corner along the length of the bolt hole..
wont compromise the bell housing strength..
btw, this will not need removal of the turbo to do.. just the box out again
yeh thats the exact issue, sounds ALOT easier that trying those rusty seized ass turbo bolts, i think ill be giving it ago this weekend
cheers
also thanks for all the bolt removing info, will unfortunatly come in handy in the future
#54
Posted 10 December 2011 - 09:17 PM
the whole bolt came out of the turbo.shows how stuck on the nut was ay...
rusty turbo OFF and bolts loosened
heres the gearbox finally mated up with the engine!
and the rest of the drive line just about fully assembled
#55
Posted 11 December 2011 - 02:56 PM
#56
Posted 11 December 2011 - 05:31 PM
What do i have to do to get the speed sensor working from this new box? this one is a 3 wire the old one was 2
just screw the old sensor that suits your loom into the box
#57
Posted 11 December 2011 - 07:42 PM
#58
Posted 11 December 2011 - 07:45 PM
u probably all know this but just in case.....especially with exhaust or brake lines you should give the nut a little crack in the clockwise direction ensuring the tool ur using is secured on the nut properly first of course, in most cases that will save u many a nut or bolt rounding.
marv....i am impressed with the look of the parra coloured weapons. what are they? are they irwin item?
good luck with the loom on the dccd and the rest of the build. well done on those braids.
#59
Posted 11 December 2011 - 07:54 PM
marv....i am impressed with the look of the parra coloured weapons. what are they? are they irwin item?
That was me actually
Yeah irwin make them: http://www.irwin.com...bolt-extractors
#60
Posted 11 December 2011 - 07:58 PM
didnt realise irwin had a catalogue like that, very handy.
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