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Suspension: Upgrades, What do I need?

whiteline RSB FSB Strut Brace Bushes

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#1 Adam

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 10:57 AM

Hey Guys,
I’m planning on upgrading my suspension eventually, and would actually like to jump on this group buy from whiteline, so I need help with what I actually need. I will list what I want. Tell me if im on the right track. Basically I want to upgrade sway bars, and re do all my bushes (or as many as I can afford) as they have done over 220k Kms now and seem a bit average/spongy!

Front:
F - Sway bar - 22mm X heavy duty blade adjustable - BSF19XZ
F - Anti-lift/caster - control arm lower inner rear - KCA319A
F - Roll centre/bump steer correction - KCA313
F - Control arm - lower inner front - W51709

Rear
R - Sway bar - 22mm XX h/duty blade adjustable M/SPORT - BSR19XXZ
R - Brace - strut tower alloy adj - KSB590Q
R - Control arm - lower inner & outer - W61382.
R - Sway bar - mount kit heavy duty 22mm - KBR21-22

** already have traliling arm bushes

Questions raised when building this list are;
  • Have I chosen the correct sway bar sizes?
  • Do I need to upgrade swaybar mounts? (I already have alloy links F and R)
  • BSF19XZ (FSB) states it’s for “Non turbo 94-8/97” I wasn’t aware there was a difference, is there?
  • Have I missed anything?

Cheers for the input. I’m a pretty big n00b with suspension gear!

EDIT: Crossed out FSB, Added RSB HD Mounts.

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#2 acres

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 11:13 AM

Don't get that front sway bar, I bought this one and it contacts the crossmember slightly while cornering. I believe the wrx one will be more appropriate as it doesn't have the "bends" so looks like it will have more clearance. I asked whiteline about this but they weren't too helpful, maybe someone else can confirm. The stock rear swaybar mounts are pretty flimsy, I would upgrade those too.

#3 Grant

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 11:21 AM

+1 for upgrading rear swaybar mounts, the stock ones have been known to break.
I'd probably only go 20mm on the FSB too, but that's just me :)

#4 Shaz

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 11:22 AM

Pretty sure you need a turbo front swaybar Adam, as it will foul on the front x-member/exhaust.

I'm sure one of the gen 2 blokes would have an insight into what parts you'll need.


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#5 Alex

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 11:23 AM

Cut and paste my build thread.


/thread.

#6 Marv

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 11:24 AM

Don't go that big on the front - too much understeer. I'd stay stock until you have a front LSD
Get HD mounts for the rear
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#7 Adam

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 11:48 AM

Cheers for the input so far guys.

Cut and paste my build thread.


/thread.


Alex, Pretty much what i did, bar the really exxy items ;)

What do you make of Marv's understeer comment?

Don't go that big on the front - too much understeer. I'd stay stock until you have a front LSD
Get HD mounts for the rear


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#8 acres

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 12:17 PM

Don't go that big on the front - too much understeer. I'd stay stock until you have a front LSD
Get HD mounts for the rear


Personally, I found the 22mm bar was an improvement over stock but I can't comment on whether it or the 20mm bar is the better option.

#9 Marv

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 12:23 PM

What size rear bar did you have?
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#10 B4TT

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 12:32 PM

What do you make of Marv's understeer comment?

Marv knows where it is at!

 


#11 Adam

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 12:37 PM

Wasn't challenging Marv's knowing, just interested in Alex's opinion, as he has 22 F and R

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#12 Marv

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 12:38 PM

He doesn't drive hard enough to find the understeer :P :D
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#13 Adam

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 12:42 PM

Hahaha ZING!

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#14 acres

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 01:13 PM

22mm rear bar. In combination with it i have tried no front bar, stock bar and the 22mm front bar and it definately feels better with the 22. To me anyway.

#15 Marv

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 01:23 PM

Feel is something you can't really quantify, though. Depending on your cornering technique (and at what point of the corner you start accelerating) you can have different results.

To me, its wasted time looking at swaybars/bushes without matching them to your tyres and struts/springs and how you drive your car.
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#16 Xon

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 01:31 PM

Surely Alexxx had already done at least some of these before you bought the car?
I'd agree with Marv, you want the front swaybar atleast a few mm smaller than the rear to help cancel out some of the inherent understeer.

I'd also put a GOOD set of tyres at the top of the list if you haven't already.

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#17 Alex

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 01:39 PM

LOL at the comments.

I felt that the car was balanced rather well when I had the open front diff and viscous rear, although a couple of times, doing silly things, I found there was episodes of understeer with a transition to oversteer. Nothing I couldn't handle though, but you did loose speed playing silly buggers Keiichi Tsuchiya styles.

20mm sway bars are what the GTB came out with from the factory. 22mm was an improvement. Try to source a cheap 20mm, and go the 22mm rear adjustable. If you feel that its too taily (crazy Central Coast "holdmebeerandwatchthisforskilllove" styles) then go up to a 22mm. (Use GC8 p/n)

Xon is correct - buy the best tyres you can. And I can't emphasise enough the importance of bushes.

I'm at work atm, so I can't go through your list very thoroughly, but we'll have words Adam. Rest assured ;)

#18 Xon

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 01:47 PM

You'd also be surprised how much difference driver ability will make. I know that goes without saying, but really. You'd be surprised. Take your car to an advanced driver training course and give the keys to a trainer, and you'll see what a relatively stock vehicle can do.

No amount of mods can make up for lack of ability.

I would have gone to the kitchen, collected a brown bag, dropped my dacks, pinched off a loaf in said bag, done up dacks, stickytaped bag, placed bag in envelope, and mailed it right to your face for being such a tool.


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#19 Alex

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 01:48 PM

You'd also be surprised how much difference driver ability will make. I know that goes without saying, but really. You'd be surprised. Take your car to an advanced driver training course and give the keys to a trainer, and you'll see what a relatively stock vehicle can do.

No amount of mods can make up for lack of ability.

Mods first.

No point taking a bum nugget to a skid pan day imho.

#20 Marv

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 01:58 PM

Mods first.

No point taking a bum nugget to a skid pan day imho.


Bum nuggets are generally faster as it's easier for an inexperienced driver to pedal one quickly and learn than it is to try and pedal something that has had all the stock tolerances taken out of it (which is nowhere near as forgiving)
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