Hey guys, got the slave cylinder reconditioned..went to put it in the car the other day and the boot filled up with brake fluid, took it back to the place who reco'd it and they checked it out and found a dodgy seal. Replaced no worries and I was on my way,
Now, I am trying to bleed the clutch and I am getting absolutely no resistance in the pedal at all. The fluid is pushing the slave cylinder but not very much and the pedal snaps straight to the floor every time.
So any ideas on what is happening? Something need adjusting? The pedal adjustment is about halfway through..is this right?
Please help me, I just want to get the Lib back on the road,
Cheers, Jesse
43 replies to this topic
#2
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 10:37 AM
Sounds like the master is not primed.
Make sure the pedal pushrod has some free play when the pedal is all the way up.
This will ensure the piston seal is not covering the compensating port, allowing the master to fill correctly.
Then loosen the pipe nut at the master and push the pedal down, nip up the nut and release pedal. (like you would nornmally bleed)
Do this until you get a good supply of fliud (makes a mess so wash it off with water when you are finished).
By now you should should have some sort of pedal, so just bleed at the slave in the normal way.
Note:
Some vehicles the lines go up and down so the air will be trapped in the upper sections and causes an odd feeling pedal (clutch will stil work).
If this happens, get someone to push the pedal very quickly as the bleed nipple is opened then close the nipple with the pedal on the floor.(do this a few times) This should eventually shoot the air pocket out the bleed nipple.
Make sure the pedal pushrod has some free play when the pedal is all the way up.
This will ensure the piston seal is not covering the compensating port, allowing the master to fill correctly.
Then loosen the pipe nut at the master and push the pedal down, nip up the nut and release pedal. (like you would nornmally bleed)
Do this until you get a good supply of fliud (makes a mess so wash it off with water when you are finished).
By now you should should have some sort of pedal, so just bleed at the slave in the normal way.
Note:
Some vehicles the lines go up and down so the air will be trapped in the upper sections and causes an odd feeling pedal (clutch will stil work).
If this happens, get someone to push the pedal very quickly as the bleed nipple is opened then close the nipple with the pedal on the floor.(do this a few times) This should eventually shoot the air pocket out the bleed nipple.
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?
#3
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 12:30 PM
Cheers Jase, I'll give that a go 
#4
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 01:36 PM
Is this the pipe nut you are talking about Jase?
#5
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 02:21 PM
Correct.
If what i suggested doesn't work, you may have to remove the master and bench bleed it before re fitting.
To bench bleed:
Place master in a vice so the pushrod can be operated.
Fill with fluid.
Place finger lightly over outlet hole. (it will act like a one way valve)
Pump the push rod gently and allow fluid to escape on the downstroke.
Using finger pressure over the hole to prevent air entering on the upstroke.
Repeat until a good supply of fluid leaves the master.
If what i suggested doesn't work, you may have to remove the master and bench bleed it before re fitting.
To bench bleed:
Place master in a vice so the pushrod can be operated.
Fill with fluid.
Place finger lightly over outlet hole. (it will act like a one way valve)
Pump the push rod gently and allow fluid to escape on the downstroke.
Using finger pressure over the hole to prevent air entering on the upstroke.
Repeat until a good supply of fluid leaves the master.
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#6
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 02:27 PM
Ok, there is fluid coming out of the master every time the pedal is pushed down..the same can be said for the slave cylinder. I have some clear tubing and there is very few bubbles coming through at all....but still no pedal resistance. If the master isnt primed properly, will it still push fluid through to the slave?
Hopefully you can understand what I mean...
Hopefully you can understand what I mean...
#7
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 02:30 PM
A good supply of fuild or just a dribble?
Yes it will still push fluid but wont operate the slave (the trapped air is compressing)
You did check the freeplay right? You should be able to move the pedal about 5mm before any slack is taken out of the pushrod.
Yes it will still push fluid but wont operate the slave (the trapped air is compressing)
You did check the freeplay right? You should be able to move the pedal about 5mm before any slack is taken out of the pushrod.
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#8
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 02:37 PM
With the master bleed nut, am I supposed to pull it out all the way and use my finger? I've just been cracking it about a quarter of a turn and fluid comes out...sometimes as a dribble, other times it squirts across the engine bay.
Yeah, I checked the free play, there is about 5mm where the actual pedal is...is this where I check it? I have the fluid going into a clean bottle...should I just keep bleeding and see what happens.
Sorry about any spelling...I'm using my phone.
Yeah, I checked the free play, there is about 5mm where the actual pedal is...is this where I check it? I have the fluid going into a clean bottle...should I just keep bleeding and see what happens.
Sorry about any spelling...I'm using my phone.
#9
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 02:43 PM
As I pump the fluid in the master reservoir stays level when the pedal goes to the floor but drops when it is raised again...this is different to normal yes? What could cause that?
#10
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 02:46 PM
Does it make a difference that I haven't started the car since beginning this? (TMIC) gets in the way. A mate said something about a self adjusting clutch? I have made the car prime but can't actually start it...
#11
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 02:57 PM
Car will start without TMIC! But may not run for long. Scared the shit out of me when that happened!
I don't think it has a self adjusting clutch?
I don't think it has a self adjusting clutch?
#12
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 03:02 PM
Yeah, I've never had an issue before bleeding a clutch, done it hundreds of times issue free.
#13
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 03:19 PM
You wont need to start it.
Fluid remains level as the piston moves forward. This is normal.
Stick your head under the dash and you should be able to rattle the pushrod around a bit. You may even be able to see the rear of the piston (move the dust boot if fitted) move when the pedal is pushed. This should happen only after the initial 5mm or so of freeplay has been taken up.
Out of curiousity, are yo able to push the slave cylinder piston all the way back?
Is the slave pushrod adjustable as well?
Fluid remains level as the piston moves forward. This is normal.
Stick your head under the dash and you should be able to rattle the pushrod around a bit. You may even be able to see the rear of the piston (move the dust boot if fitted) move when the pedal is pushed. This should happen only after the initial 5mm or so of freeplay has been taken up.
Out of curiousity, are yo able to push the slave cylinder piston all the way back?
Is the slave pushrod adjustable as well?
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#14
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 03:27 PM
Is this what the slave looks like?
It looks super extended...
It looks super extended...
#15
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 03:27 PM
No the slave isn't adjustable. The free play looks about right. I can push the slave piston all the way back and it pushes fluid through to the reservoir.
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 03:32 PM
Looks like this at the moment.
#17
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 03:35 PM
Something doesn't look right with the clutch arm thing.
Spring should be stretched, and the boot on the slave should be compressed.
I think...
My slave was real hard to get back on when I did my box.
Has the throw out bearing engaged?
Spring should be stretched, and the boot on the slave should be compressed.
I think...
My slave was real hard to get back on when I did my box.
Has the throw out bearing engaged?
#18
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 03:38 PM
Grants Slave Cyl:
(i dont have a pic of mine)
(i dont have a pic of mine)
#19
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 03:44 PM
That's a pic of the slave when the pedal is on the floor...
As for the throwout bearing I can only assume so. The clutch fork was in it properly when I put the pin through and the clutch fork swings fine when done with my hand...?
Anyone else have a clear pic of what it looks like on their car? I can pull the TMIC off the STI and have a look if it stops raining.
As for the throwout bearing I can only assume so. The clutch fork was in it properly when I put the pin through and the clutch fork swings fine when done with my hand...?
Anyone else have a clear pic of what it looks like on their car? I can pull the TMIC off the STI and have a look if it stops raining.
#20
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 03:46 PM
Clutch fork shouldn't be able to be moved by hand. I dont think. That's probably why you have no pedal feel?
You put the bearing onto the input shaft and then installed the clutch arm yes?
From memory, the bearing has to be sorta clicked into place, try pushing the clutch arm towards the back of the car hard and see if it clicks in.
(assuming its not engaged)
You put the bearing onto the input shaft and then installed the clutch arm yes?
From memory, the bearing has to be sorta clicked into place, try pushing the clutch arm towards the back of the car hard and see if it clicks in.
(assuming its not engaged)
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