430 replies to this topic

[Sam]

Updated build thread.

Car

2003 MY03 Subaru Outback Wagon


Engine & Drivetrain

STI EJ257 bottom end
JDM WRX 2.0L Heads
Exedy Sports Organic Clutch
JDM 5 Speed Gearbox 4.44 Ration
Throttle Happy Tune making 159AWKW
TD04L Turbo
KLS Powerspirit 3" Dump Pipe
2.5" Cat-back exhaust (straight pipe)
XForce Rear Muffler - Angled
Walbro 255L Fuel Pump
GFB Short Throw Shifter
Platinum Spark Plugs
Genuine Subaru Service kit


Suspension & Handling

BC Racing BR Gold Coilovers
Whiteline 20mm 2 way adjustable Rear Sway Bar
Poly Urethane Bushes
GT-B Legacy Front Strut Brace
Gen IV GT Liberty 316mm Front Brakes
Bendix Ultimates all round
STI 6 speed brake booster
STI 6 speed master cylinder


Exterior

Rota Grid 18x9.5+38 in Gunmetal Grey
Goodyear Eagle F1 235/40r18 Tyres
Ultrex 06 STI front lip
Rolled Guards
STI Badges
Clear side indicators
Legacy Front Grille
Custom rear garnish tail lights
Personal Number plates "[03.SUBY]"
Legacy GT-B Bonnet
Legacy GT-B Rear Wing
Brake Calipers in 'Candy Teal'
Phillips 100% H7 55W Low Beams
Phillips 80% H1 55W High Beams
Phillips 100% H3 100W Fog Lights (wired correctly)



Interior

02 STI Bucket seats
STI 300km White faced dials
STI Carpet Mats
09 WRX Gearknob
Turbosmart 52mm Boost Gauge in pod
35% tint on front 2 windows
15% tint on rear 2 windows and cargo area
Piezo Central Locking Beeper
Woodgrain in Satin Black


ICE

Kenwood DPX-U6120 Head Unit
Pioneer GM6400F 4 Channel Amplifier - Under Drivers Seat
Clarion SRQ1621s 6.5" Components - Front
Fli Audio 180W 6.5" Components - Rear
Option Audio 400W 2-way Amplifier
Option Audio 1300W 12" Subwoofer in Ported Box
Dynamat in all 4 doors


Probably way more, will add things as I remember them.

[Shaz]

Sam,

I would be just going for an exedy OEM replacement clutch. No need for a HD with the mods you have planned. Plus, the stronger the clutch, the weaker the gearbox

Cheers,
Shazza

[Sam]

Sam,

I would be just going for an exedy OEM replacement clutch. No need for a HD with the mods you have planned. Plus, the stronger the clutch, the weaker the gearbox

Cheers,
Shazza

Ok thats cool, would you recommend Exedy over Extreme?

[Shaz]

Ok thats cool, would you recommend Exedy over Extreme?

Not sure mate. I've only ever used Exedy.

I'm sure some of the other blokes on here (Aek, Alex, Adam, Matt, Iain) would be able to tell you.

Cheers,
Shazza

[Sam]

Aek, Alex, Adam, Matt, Iain.... you guys with turbos might be able to lend some experience???

[allpaw4]

+1 from Shaz. Clutches are cheap compared to boxes. The stronger the clutch, the faster you will kill the box. Standard pressure rating is optimum, especially if its the 5 spd.
Xtreme have an extremely good tech help service, and aren't afraid to exchange products. That said, I've never had a problem with Exedy either.
Other advice is dont worry about the iridium plugs. They normally get changed every 25k for ~6 bucks each. Iridiums only last 100k, and cost ~25 each. Not worth it financially, and I have heard of rough idle problems with them, and personally experienced bad cold start performance with them. My advice is to avoid them. Spend the saved coin on something worthwhile.
Get a new water pump. Cheap insurance. 130 odd bucks, and saves a lot of headf#@ks later when the original starts leaking.

Something else - I dont know about how long the dual range boxes are, but you may need to get a different tailshaft. Might be worth looking into anyway.

Both will probably comparable in price concerning the TMIC/FMIC deal, but the benefits will lean towards the FM. Its more stealth, and will keep you out of the eyes of the local police (if you paint it black) and will handle bigger turbos etc much better than the TM. But lets not get into a "this is better - no its not - yes it is" thread.

Cheers,
Ben

[Sam]

+1 from Shaz. Clutches are cheap compared to boxes. The stronger the clutch, the faster you will kill the box. Standard pressure rating is optimum, especially if its the 5 spd.
Xtreme have an extremely good tech help service, and aren't afraid to exchange products. That said, I've never had a problem with Exedy either.
Other advice is dont worry about the iridium plugs. They normally get changed every 25k for ~6 bucks each. Iridiums only last 100k, and cost ~25 each. Not worth it financially, and I have heard of rough idle problems with them, and personally experienced bad cold start performance with them. My advice is to avoid them. Spend the saved coin on something worthwhile.
Get a new water pump. Cheap insurance. 130 odd bucks, and saves a lot of headf#@ks later when the original starts leaking.

Something else - I dont know about how long the dual range boxes are, but you may need to get a different tailshaft. Might be worth looking into anyway.

Both will probably comparable in price concerning the TMIC/FMIC deal, but the benefits will lean towards the FM. Its more stealth, and will keep you out of the eyes of the local police (if you paint it black) and will handle bigger turbos etc much better than the TM. But lets not get into a "this is better - no its not - yes it is" thread.

Cheers,
Ben

Thanks for the detailed response!!!

I will stay away from the Heavy Duty clutch!
And yes, i forgot about a new water pump. I get one to suit the new engine, right?

As for the plugs.... I will get some decent normal spark plugs, not necessarily the iridium ones.

I was told i only need a new tail shaft if i delift the Outback, but ill need a few other parts as well i think. So at the moment, im not going to delift it.

Im pretty sure i am leaning towards the top mount, as i just read on MRT website that for the power figures i will be running with the stock turbo, a front mount will be overkill???
Could someone please explain what would be best in this situation?
I have a front mount lined up if i need to, but after reading that its overkill im more inclined to stick with top mount!..

[Cam.]

Careful with the HD clutch, That's what killed my bugeye box originally!

Can't go wrong with a top mount, Especially with the standard turbo.

I'm running a VF34 with a standard wrx top mount and it's handling 16psi fine.

[Sam]

Careful with the HD clutch, That's what killed my bugeye box originally!

Staying away from it
Thanks for the advice!

[allpaw4]

At present its certainly overkill, but if you want to push it later down the track, its a good idea. Basically at this stage, it depends on 1) how much you want the scoop, and 2) how much you want the cops to look at you. Keep a quiet exhaust, stock outback bonnet and a black front mount and they wont know unless you either boot it in front of them or they pull you up and look.
Also depends on how much you can pick up a turbo bonnet for. Remember you will probably need to paint it too.
Performance wise there wont be much difference between the two, you might find a little more lag when you first plant your foot with the small turbo and the FM, but it will only be ~100 rpm max. Cooler inlet charge should have it running more efficently though.
But TM will be easier. Buy tarbo bonnet, fit and drive away.

Yes, water pump definitely to suit the new engine. Good news about the tailshaft.

Cheers,
Ben

[Adam]

Can kill a box with a normal exeedy clutch

Aparantly they are made to oem specs. And are what most people use.

I'll be going FMIC when I have money.

Do you have a turbo bonnet? Or will you have one by the time the conversion is done?

[alexGT]

plenty of power to be had from standard wrx TMIC, they will top out just over 170kw atw. good tune with 16-17psi out of TD04 will get you just under this (plenty of power if you haven't had a turbocharged car before). FMIC is a waste of time with the TD04.

my Process West TMIC power limit is a smidge over 250kw atw, which I would need forged internals + more boost to get even close to. you would be stupid not to have a B4 bonnet and TMIC by the way.

clutch. exedy oem replacements are known for their off throttle (decel) rattle. they are NOT the same as the OEM clutch you get from Subaru. If you would like an OEM clutch you can order from the states for around $500 delivered (close to exedy OEM replacement cost). all part numbers + order info is on rexnet there have been plenty of guys who have done this.

water pump/service parts - get these from rising sun subaru. use genuine parts for WP/Timing kit. kris has very well priced kits.

pfr7b is the spark plug you are after.

[Sam]

At present its certainly overkill, but if you want to push it later down the track, its a good idea. Basically at this stage, it depends on 1) how much you want the scoop, and 2) how much you want the cops to look at you. Keep a quiet exhaust, stock outback bonnet and a black front mount and they wont know unless you either boot it in front of them or they pull you up and look.
Also depends on how much you can pick up a turbo bonnet for. Remember you will probably need to paint it too.
Performance wise there wont be much difference between the two, you might find a little more lag when you first plant your foot with the small turbo and the FM, but it will only be ~100 rpm max. Cooler inlet charge should have it running more efficently though.
But TM will be easier. Buy tarbo bonnet, fit and drive away.

Yes, water pump definitely to suit the new engine. Good news about the tailshaft.

Cheers,
Ben

I think top mount is the way to go. I can always upgrade if needs be anyway.
At the moment I can't find a turbo bonnet, but I'll keep looking.

[Sam]

plenty of power to be had from standard wrx TMIC, they will top out just over 170kw atw. good tune with 16-17psi out of TD04 will get you just under this (plenty of power if you haven't had a turbocharged car before). FMIC is a waste of time with the TD04.

my Process West TMIC power limit is a smidge over 250kw atw, which I would need forged internals + more boost to get even close to. you would be stupid not to have a B4 bonnet and TMIC by the way.

clutch. exedy oem replacements are known for their off throttle (decel) rattle. they are NOT the same as the OEM clutch you get from Subaru. If you would like an OEM clutch you can order from the states for around $500 delivered (close to exedy OEM replacement cost). all part numbers + order info is on rexnet there have been plenty of guys who have done this.

water pump/service parts - get these from rising sun subaru. use genuine parts for WP/Timing kit. kris has very well priced kits.

pfr7b is the spark plug you are after.

Thanks for the part numbers for the spark plugs. Could I get the water pump and service part from Bursons though??

[Cam.]

Always go genuine when it comes to water pumps.

Sadly, You won't be able to get a genuine one through Bursons though.

[Sam]

Ok thanks for the advice. I'll see how much they are through Subaru!

[Xon]

-Extreme Heavy Duty Clutch kit

Most people will tell you this is a very fast way to kill your box, and often they're right. Standard OEM is better, it's much cheaper to replace the clutch than the whole box.

Also, 100,000km service includes water pump I believe?

Edit: I see many people have beat me!

I'd like to though, it's not clamping pressure alone that kills the box, but the way you shift. It's also not how you launch it, but how you slam between gears. 1st is a very chunky, non-syncro gear and it's hard to kill. Look around and you'll find most people strip 2nd, 3rd or 4th.

On plugs, I personally have huuuuge cold start issues with iridium plugs. They're fine otherwise, but from a dead cold start it's horrible. If you hate changing plugs go platinum, if you don't mind it then go regular $2 plugs.

[CRUISN]

Ok thanks for the advice. I'll see how much they are through Subaru!

Whatever you need, buy it from Chaplins Subaru in the US.

I collected all the part numbers for bolts and brackets I needed to delift the Outback and ordered them from Chaplins. US$47 + 18 shipping. Just ou tof curiosity I took the same part numbers Subaru Docklands $212!!!!!!!!!!! For the exact same parts. WTF!

[Sam]

Whatever you need, buy it from Chaplins Subaru in the US.

I collected all the part numbers for bolts and brackets I needed to delift the Outback and ordered them from Chaplins. US$47 + 18 shipping. Just ou tof curiosity I took the same part numbers Subaru Docklands $212!!!!!!!!!!! For the exact same parts. WTF!

Thank you very much for that Mark, I will look into them for when I do the delift.
Approx how long did the parts take to arrive though?

Most people will tell you this is a very fast way to kill your box, and often they're right. Standard OEM is better, it's much cheaper to replace the clutch than the whole box.

Also, 100,000km service includes water pump I believe?

Edit: I see many people have beat me!

I'd like to though, it's not clamping pressure alone that kills the box, but the way you shift. It's also not how you launch it, but how you slam between gears. 1st is a very chunky, non-syncro gear and it's hard to kill. Look around and you'll find most people strip 2nd, 3rd or 4th.

On plugs, I personally have huuuuge cold start issues with iridium plugs. They're fine otherwise, but from a dead cold start it's horrible. If you hate changing plugs go platinum, if you don't mind it then go regular $2 plugs.

So what is the difference between Iridium plugs and platinum plugs? (or are they both the same?)

[Sam]

What could anyone suggest regarding the turbo back exhaust? Should I just get the exhaust guy to make a custom one?
I want to go 3" back to the diff.

Could I buy headers/cat converter/pipes etc instead?