Turbo Timer... yeah yeah i know.. but listen! LOL
#1
Posted 24 July 2012 - 11:44 AM
i don't often have time to sit and idle the car, ( i do when i can) but often i will drive down the highway to a meeting place ( i am newspaper Photog remember) and jump out and do the shoot and go again...
or i will have to fang it across town to try and get a shot of something going down, or a whale sighting off the beach or who bloody knows what! so i just don't have time in these instaces to do that... and the times i have had to fang across town ( previously in NA vehicles) i have pushed my friendship with the local establishment!
now to my question... i have the Brandt removed... so i am told by the previous owner... but have an aftermarket immobilizer... this should hook up as if it were on any car that has an immobilizer fitted yeah??
also.. those of you that have them or have had them... any brands or features i should know about??? seen some apexi ones cheap on ebay... are they copies??
1st 1990 Nissan Pulsar Q. What a rocket!
2nd: Gen 2 RX... Loved and lost...
3rd: 1995 Toyota Corolla which drove from Cairns to Bunbury in 5 Days! 6610km!!! didnt miss a beat.
4th: Gen1 GX bought for $500 went like stink... looked like what caused the stink
5th: More civilized now... with a Heritage Wagon... now gone...
6th Mitsubishi KJ Verada..."its nothing like a suby" now gone...
7th: 2002 B4 Liberty TT....
8th: MY04 Subaru Liberty GT Premium Pack Wagon
JLG Photographics Swimwear, Portrait, Commercial and Automotive Photography.www.jlgphotographics.com
#2
Posted 24 July 2012 - 01:12 PM
No.
You don't need a turbo timer.
#3
Posted 24 July 2012 - 01:14 PM
I've heard that the engine's cooling system will continue to circulate water through the lines once the engine is shut off. Unless your car is very heavily modified, this is sufficient.
I'd suggest putting the cash towards something more worthwhile.
#4
Posted 24 July 2012 - 03:14 PM
from Subaru:
"TURBO COOL DOWN PROCEDURE
FHI's position regarding this is that it is not necessary to perform a "cool down/idling" procedure. Our current 2.0L turbo engine has a far greater cooling capacity and, coupled with technology advances, makes this practice no longer necessary. This explains why information about cool down is not included in the Owner's Manual.
The heat contained in the turbo charger will begin to vaporize the coolant at the turbo charger after the engine is stopped. This hot vapor will then enter the coolant reservoir tank which is the highest point of the coolant system. At the same time the vapor exits the turbo charger, coolant supplied from the right bank cylinder head flows into the turbo. This action cools the turbo charger down. This process will continue until the vaporizing action in the turbo charger has stopped or cooled down."
#5
Posted 24 July 2012 - 04:21 PM
and thats why mine is sitting in my tool box ever since i got it off you aekyou don't need a turbo timer. as morgan said (and alex in less words) it's not needed as our cars have water cooled turbos. the reason you know what they all say is because it's true, having one fitted would only be for show
#6
Posted 24 July 2012 - 05:13 PM
#7
Posted 24 July 2012 - 06:12 PM
#8
Posted 24 July 2012 - 11:45 PM
Thanks AEK, appreciate the response... and Alex... i know you like to be the devils advocate, but sometimes its good to understand why you need or not need something...you don't need a turbo timer. as morgan said (and alex in less words) it's not needed as our cars have water cooled turbos. the reason you know what they all say is because it's true, having one fitted would only be for show
from Subaru:
"TURBO COOL DOWN PROCEDURE
FHI's position regarding this is that it is not necessary to perform a "cool down/idling" procedure. Our current 2.0L turbo engine has a far greater cooling capacity and, coupled with technology advances, makes this practice no longer necessary. This explains why information about cool down is not included in the Owner's Manual.
The heat contained in the turbo charger will begin to vaporize the coolant at the turbo charger after the engine is stopped. This hot vapor will then enter the coolant reservoir tank which is the highest point of the coolant system. At the same time the vapor exits the turbo charger, coolant supplied from the right bank cylinder head flows into the turbo. This action cools the turbo charger down. This process will continue until the vaporizing action in the turbo charger has stopped or cooled down."
now that i know that i have nothing to worry about it wont bother, but i did think for a bit there i was an advocate for needing one...
1st 1990 Nissan Pulsar Q. What a rocket!
2nd: Gen 2 RX... Loved and lost...
3rd: 1995 Toyota Corolla which drove from Cairns to Bunbury in 5 Days! 6610km!!! didnt miss a beat.
4th: Gen1 GX bought for $500 went like stink... looked like what caused the stink
5th: More civilized now... with a Heritage Wagon... now gone...
6th Mitsubishi KJ Verada..."its nothing like a suby" now gone...
7th: 2002 B4 Liberty TT....
8th: MY04 Subaru Liberty GT Premium Pack Wagon
JLG Photographics Swimwear, Portrait, Commercial and Automotive Photography.www.jlgphotographics.com
#9
Posted 25 July 2012 - 08:38 AM
I don't spoon feed.
#10
#11
Posted 25 July 2012 - 09:50 AM
1st 1990 Nissan Pulsar Q. What a rocket!
2nd: Gen 2 RX... Loved and lost...
3rd: 1995 Toyota Corolla which drove from Cairns to Bunbury in 5 Days! 6610km!!! didnt miss a beat.
4th: Gen1 GX bought for $500 went like stink... looked like what caused the stink
5th: More civilized now... with a Heritage Wagon... now gone...
6th Mitsubishi KJ Verada..."its nothing like a suby" now gone...
7th: 2002 B4 Liberty TT....
8th: MY04 Subaru Liberty GT Premium Pack Wagon
JLG Photographics Swimwear, Portrait, Commercial and Automotive Photography.www.jlgphotographics.com
#12
Posted 29 July 2012 - 08:07 PM
Other than cranking the car over letting the engine start nd give it about 5 seconds for oil to be happy, there is no point idling the car at start up.
Just start driving and keep it under 2500/3000rpm. This process will warm your gearbox oil up to (something not happening sitting there) not to mention other moving parts.
I wrote a long post on this ages ago on rexnet and i cant be bothered finding it, but its pointless. unless you get in and floor it (which is stupid) then there is no need to sit there with the car longer than about 10 seconds.
Take it from me, i had a my00 wrx and she went till 396000km original engine/gearbox/turbo and pretty much everytime i got into her (partly cause she had a loud exhaust and i was working early mornings back then) it would be in, start engine let clutch out and reverse out the garage and drive.
/rant.
As for your turbo timer, from what you wrote i still dont see why you would need one :S Just dont go full boost then turn it straight off.
#13
Posted 29 July 2012 - 10:17 PM
Stuff the boi racer mods and spend the money on sorting out your tranny/aftermarket immobiliser Frankenstein-ness.
#14
Posted 29 July 2012 - 11:36 PM
if i have to boot it down the road to an accident scene, or to a photo of a local polly or a bunch of greenies chained to some trees or something like that... its arrive, action, go go go no time to worry about the car... which is why i thought that a timer would be of assistance... but i am leaning towards not bothering...
Stuff the boi racer mods and spend the money on sorting out your tranny/aftermarket immobiliser Frankenstein-ness.
haha yeah thats the plan... i can get a timer cheap... and in my defence, it was out of a specific requirement to consider one... not **** factor... unlike remote starting and all that jazz! lol
1st 1990 Nissan Pulsar Q. What a rocket!
2nd: Gen 2 RX... Loved and lost...
3rd: 1995 Toyota Corolla which drove from Cairns to Bunbury in 5 Days! 6610km!!! didnt miss a beat.
4th: Gen1 GX bought for $500 went like stink... looked like what caused the stink
5th: More civilized now... with a Heritage Wagon... now gone...
6th Mitsubishi KJ Verada..."its nothing like a suby" now gone...
7th: 2002 B4 Liberty TT....
8th: MY04 Subaru Liberty GT Premium Pack Wagon
JLG Photographics Swimwear, Portrait, Commercial and Automotive Photography.www.jlgphotographics.com
#15
Posted 16 October 2012 - 07:43 PM
By keeping the motor running It also keeps oil pressure to the turbo bearings until the turbo had slowed down to its lowest possible rpm hence saving the bearings! Cutting the oil feed to a shaft that is spinning so fast is what causes problems!
This is far more important that the temperature!
#16
Posted 16 October 2012 - 08:36 PM
Ugh i could ramble on for forking days about this stuff.
#17
Posted 16 October 2012 - 08:40 PM
Subyclub, The place where random internet weirdos become good mates
#18
Posted 16 October 2012 - 08:40 PM
To everyone who thinks a turbo timer is just to cool the turbo.
By keeping the motor running It also keeps oil pressure to the turbo bearings until the turbo had slowed down to its lowest possible rpm hence saving the bearings! Cutting the oil feed to a shaft that is spinning so fast is what causes problems!
This is far more important that the temperature!
sorry mate, but this is not right.
I worked on a race team a few years back, we had an experimental turbo made specially for us by garret, it included an rpm sensor so we could directly measure the speed of the turbo. Anyway, the speed of the turbo would go from 300,000+ rpm at full boost to about 50,000 rpm in less than 1 second when the throttle was snapped shut on the engine dyno. A tiny factory b4 turbo would probably accelerate and decelerate even quicker than this, basically, by the time your engine has reached idle speed when you stop the car, the turbo will be at its minimum rpm, its not going to get any slower letting the engine idle. When you shut off the engine, a plain bearing turbo will be completely stopped within a couple of seconds.
The idea behind letting the engine idle before shutdown came from the days of oil cooled turbos on big trucks that ran at 30-40psi most of the time, where there would be no natural circulation of coolant after shutdown. The red hot turbo would bake the oil to the bearing surface in the turbo and cause premature wear.
Basically, unless ur exhaust manifold is glowing after an extended period of thrashing, there is no need to idle the motor.
Excessive engine idling causes the oil to be washed from the cylinder walls and wears your rings quicker.
Just look at modern turbo diesel engines, they are basically on boost 95% of the time, and there is no need to idle them.
#19
Posted 16 October 2012 - 09:45 PM
#20
Posted 16 October 2012 - 11:53 PM
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