So the Lib has been going great.. making good power but i have an issue that has been really starting to become a problem..
9/10 times when i go to start it.. it cranks for ages then eventually comes to life (barely)
idles rough for a minute then its fine..
doesn't matter if its Hot or cold.. only time it seems to start straight away is within 5 minutes of tuning off...
Was happening before all mods (3in TBE, Silicone Intake)
i have replaced Knock sensor (was a problem)
replaced IACV
new plugs and leads
tried the Coilpack from my Gen1 that was laying around
now im about to go shell out for a new Fuel Filter another can of UEC and give the AFM a spray but any other ideas?
i only get codes for IACV because i have a dicky Neutral Position sensor which throws a IACV CEL when in overrun on the freeway.. (clutch in let revs drop and then kick it in and out of gear the code disapears)
anyway..
the other thing is its running rich as a mo fo on startup!
sometimes i can smell fuel but most of the time it just starts with a cloud of smoke..
i know the car is a bit rich from the dyno day.. but thats because of the 3in TBE and the silicone intake..
only other thing that i have done was a Walbro.. but i think the problem started quite a while after that...
car runs fine on boost.. and all through the range.. just on startup it has issues..
one thing i have noticed though is it sometimes starts just as i stop cranking it... like if i time it right as i stop cranking, it might fire 1 cylinder and it rumbles slowly to life...
any ideas?
i have thought FPR but am going to try the above listed first... hopefully its just a dirty AFM
Starting issues V3 STI (EJ20K)
Started by CodeBurn3r, Dec 28 2012 10:19 AM
11 replies to this topic
#1
CodeBurn3r
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Posted 28 December 2012 - 10:19 AM
ams: "Can't live with them, can't throw rocks at them."
#2
RX25SE
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Posted 28 December 2012 - 10:59 AM
Sounds like a leaky injector Ty.
Is there any way you can monitor fuel pressure while it sits?
You could try unplugging the fuel pump relay while the egine is running at a fast idle. This will kill the fuel pressure.
Let it sit for a while but when you start it cycle the key a few times to build the fuel pressure before you crank it. Take note if it starts any better.
Faulty one way valve in the fuel pump causes the same symptoms (drops fuel pressure while it sits) but will not run rich on start up.
Also check the fuel pressure reg does not have fuel in the vacuum line (split diaphragm). This causes a 'rich all the time' problem.
Is there any way you can monitor fuel pressure while it sits?
You could try unplugging the fuel pump relay while the egine is running at a fast idle. This will kill the fuel pressure.
Let it sit for a while but when you start it cycle the key a few times to build the fuel pressure before you crank it. Take note if it starts any better.
Faulty one way valve in the fuel pump causes the same symptoms (drops fuel pressure while it sits) but will not run rich on start up.
Also check the fuel pressure reg does not have fuel in the vacuum line (split diaphragm). This causes a 'rich all the time' problem.
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#3
CodeBurn3r
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Posted 28 December 2012 - 11:13 AM
ahhhh.. Thanks Jase,
I'll hit those up this arvo..
i was thinking its only running rich on startup cause it is pumping fuel in for ages before it starts... hope its not injectors...
I'm going to tap a fitting into the Fuel line for a gauge and monitor it for a while...
might do that on the weekend..
worst thing is everything was perfect bar the faulty Knock Sensor from the first start up;..
its just something that has started to show up over the last few weeks to a point where now it almost always takes ages to start (bar the occasional time i jump in and it starts perfectly after sitting for a day (then i leave it for 3 and it wont start haha) (and i get pissed cause i dont know what has changed haha)
its a hard one to diagnose because once its been runnning it will start fine untill its sat for a while
I'll hit those up this arvo..
i was thinking its only running rich on startup cause it is pumping fuel in for ages before it starts... hope its not injectors...
I'm going to tap a fitting into the Fuel line for a gauge and monitor it for a while...
might do that on the weekend..
worst thing is everything was perfect bar the faulty Knock Sensor from the first start up;..
its just something that has started to show up over the last few weeks to a point where now it almost always takes ages to start (bar the occasional time i jump in and it starts perfectly after sitting for a day (then i leave it for 3 and it wont start haha) (and i get pissed cause i dont know what has changed haha)
its a hard one to diagnose because once its been runnning it will start fine untill its sat for a while
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#4
Richo
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Posted 28 December 2012 - 12:03 PM
does sound like too much fuel at cold start/cold run - had the same in the RS
How long is the pump priming for ? im normally hearing ~1-2 seconds
How long is the pump priming for ? im normally hearing ~1-2 seconds
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#5
fatcat67
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Posted 28 December 2012 - 11:42 PM
I had that problem in my track car. It ended up being the water temp sensor(brown plug one in cross over pipe).
Replaced and started firing straight away.
It must have fooling the ECU by giving incorrect temp reading and over fuelling when cold.
They don't often stuff up but when they do its a pain to diagnose.
Replaced and started firing straight away.
It must have fooling the ECU by giving incorrect temp reading and over fuelling when cold.
They don't often stuff up but when they do its a pain to diagnose.
As Tony Montana would say:
In this country, you gotta make the money first.
Then when you get the money, you get the power.
Then when you get the power, then you get the women.
In this country, you gotta make the money first.
Then when you get the money, you get the power.
Then when you get the power, then you get the women.
#6
CodeBurn3r
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Posted 30 December 2012 - 01:05 AM
FatCat.. i thought that.. happened on the old engine but this is hot or cold it has problems..
It's definitely over fuelling.. had more of a hunt around today. and its getting worse.. today it almost locked on me after cleaning the MAF and checking the Crank Position sensor.
(BTW for anyone playing at home.. easy way to check the MAF is to unplug it all together and see if the problem stays, apparently it tells the ECU to use a fail-safe map that should start fine)
flooded it and had to unplug the injectors to get it cleared out.
A mate thinks its Injectors.. i bloody hope not.. i'm sceptical as it was fine for about a 2 weeks after the engine was first installed and run (actually first fire up was instant)
and if the injectors were up the shitter i would not have expected it to run such a good number on the Dyno...
tomorrow i hopefully will be able to track down a spare Temp Sensor and swap it over to test (if i have one lying around)
would you think the Walbro could be too much for the Stock Injectors/FPR ?
I wouldn't think so but im starting to think it started after i swapped that... but then again it has presented itself over such a long time and i did so many things in the beginning...
if need be its only $15 or so for a Trico sensor up at SuperCrap to swap over and test..
It's definitely over fuelling.. had more of a hunt around today. and its getting worse.. today it almost locked on me after cleaning the MAF and checking the Crank Position sensor.
(BTW for anyone playing at home.. easy way to check the MAF is to unplug it all together and see if the problem stays, apparently it tells the ECU to use a fail-safe map that should start fine)
flooded it and had to unplug the injectors to get it cleared out.
A mate thinks its Injectors.. i bloody hope not.. i'm sceptical as it was fine for about a 2 weeks after the engine was first installed and run (actually first fire up was instant)
and if the injectors were up the shitter i would not have expected it to run such a good number on the Dyno...
tomorrow i hopefully will be able to track down a spare Temp Sensor and swap it over to test (if i have one lying around)
would you think the Walbro could be too much for the Stock Injectors/FPR ?
I wouldn't think so but im starting to think it started after i swapped that... but then again it has presented itself over such a long time and i did so many things in the beginning...
if need be its only $15 or so for a Trico sensor up at SuperCrap to swap over and test..
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#7
93tzlegacy
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Posted 30 December 2012 - 07:23 AM
what ecu are you running ? if its the v3 sti ecu have you wired in tha ambient air temp sensor?
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#8
CodeBurn3r
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Posted 30 December 2012 - 10:01 AM
what ecu are you running ? if its the v3 sti ecu have you wired in tha ambient air temp sensor?
Yeah the V3 6S ecu
sure did.. i might pull the ecu up and check the pins are all connected still but i made sure that everything wiring wise was A1.. especially after i connected the boost control solenoid to the wrong plug (right pin wrong plug haha)
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#9
CodeBurn3r
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Posted 30 December 2012 - 10:57 PM
So blew a Radiator hose today haha
bought a new Coolant temp sensor and installed that...
same farking issue..
Next on the list..
CAM position sensor clean...
Engine Grounds...
check the Fuel Pressure
bought a new Coolant temp sensor and installed that...
same farking issue..
Next on the list..
CAM position sensor clean...
Engine Grounds...
check the Fuel Pressure
ams: "Can't live with them, can't throw rocks at them."
#10
CodeBurn3r
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Posted 02 January 2013 - 02:02 PM
So go figure.. had a epic cruise yesterday... a wicked hoon up through the state forest on the dirt roads (gopro footage soon)
and now today the car is starting fine and not having a rich start???
I'll keep updated but hopefully thats the end of it
and now today the car is starting fine and not having a rich start???
I'll keep updated but hopefully thats the end of it
ams: "Can't live with them, can't throw rocks at them."
#11
CodeBurn3r
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Posted 23 June 2015 - 02:54 PM
I never actually Answered this and i just pulled up my own thread in google when searching for something else, so i thought i better answer this haha..
Turned out to be Coolant Temp sensor as FatCat thought.. but not that simple.. It was actually a faulty ECU not the Sensor..
Swapped for another 6S and it worked fine haha
thats a long time gone now though.. PFC for dayz now 
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#12
Barbbachello
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Posted 23 June 2015 - 05:20 PM
I never actually Answered this and i just pulled up my own thread in google when searching for something else, so i thought i better answer this haha..
Turned out to be Coolant Temp sensor as FatCat thought.. but not that simple.. It was actually a faulty ECU not the Sensor..
Swapped for another 6S and it worked fine haha
thats a long time gone now though.. PFC for dayz now
who are you? I think i remember you but havent seen you around here for ages
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