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Steath Ghetto Spec CAI (Cold Air Intake) Class is in

CAI AFM DIY

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#1 Guest_KONG_*

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 01:00 AM

Hi there & welcome to my first DIY.

My name is KONG & I hope you enjoy this class.



Today's subject session is:

"How to make a Ghetto Spec in-guard stealth Cold Air Intake pod filter set up at home by yourself and diagnose any potential areas of weakness to the intake system."


Let us begin.

Cold air intakes have always been a hot topic of debate in the forums. Do they increase power? Do they affect throttle response & fuel consumption? Is the sound shit? Are they even legal?

Who cares! None of that matters in this DIY. We are not here to discuss it at all. People are going to do it regardless & this is just another version of what has already been done many times.

Only, this one's about YOU & motivating YOU to get out there and give it a go whatever it is you are thinking of tweaking.
It's about having the balls to get shit done! It's about thinking and learning, getting you ticker ticking and things and stuff about things along the way.


Let's face it there are a couple of certainties in life.
You are going to die one day, the sun is hot, beer makes you sexy, enthusiasts are going to mod & haters are gunna hate.
Buuuttttt.....ultimately who gives a Forke.png when we are talking about YOU and the things YOU do. Especially when it comes to your car.

It is YOUR car so do what you will.

Experiment, get you hands dirty. Just get out there and give it a go! It might give you the confidence to tackle an issue you have with your car that may save you dollars & give you a sense of accomplishment that money just can't buy.

Learn something new & teach your self in the process..

What have you got to lose?

That's what this class is all about.



This DIY will NOT prove or dismiss ANY theories,
(I can't tell you if you are going to get 150kwatw out from a SOHC N/A 2.5ltr because I'm not a dyno machine nor am I a mechanic and besides, that's just rediculous)

I'm not even going to enter that discussion for now.
That's another class entirely.
Period, exclamation mark, smiley face http://www.subyclub....IR#/biggrin.png


It's simply to point out that a bit of lateral thinking, perseverance & scavenging can get you a pretty decent & good looking mod with minimum fuss or money and you can sit back and say... "Hey, I did that by myself, man it feels good and I didn't pay someone last weeks wage to get it done".




I will share with you what I did recently. Made with my own 2 hands, some cheap parts, off cuts from the bin and stuff that was lying around my shed.


My car is a MY00 model Gen3 Heritage which has been converted to a Twin turbo B4 power plant & drive train. The CAI I've set up is not model specific though. It can be used as a idea or guide line for all cars no matter what make or model, N/A or turbo.

If you use any of your existing parts or even alternative parts to what I did that's fine. It's entirely up to you and what you have access to.

It's a matter of working with what YOU have to work with.

Problem solving to gain some kind of result if you will.

This is not gospel or law. More the hope you will be inspired to adopt a "can do" attitude of..... if there's a will there's a way and at least I'm having a go.





The Stealth Ghetto Spec in guard CAI



Welcome to my engine bay..... take good look at the intake section for the CAI. Do you see it?

DSC_0661_zps40534e02.jpg


That's right! NO YOU CAN NOT!


In side the guard there is a CAI down pipe & pod filter that uses the factory intake air filter box & tubing along with the MAF sensor.
No mods to see here officer...move along!

Built it my self I did. Didn't pay tons of cash for it either.(Not including alcohol)

I didn't damage or modify the factory set up in any way. Just removed a few pieces and put them on the shelf in case I want to return to the factory set up at a later date. At a glance it looks pretty stock I think.


It started as a resonatorectomy. (Google it you dick)
and led to this.....




Here is what it looks like inside the guard.
DSC_0691_zps0593722a.jpg


I haven't replaced the guard liner as of yet but when it's back on the CAI will be virtually unnoticeable. It will create a compartment or "cold air only section" within the guard.






Tools I used for the for the job......

DSC_0685_zps0c7ab826.jpg


Large flat head screwdriver
Medium phillips head screw driver
Sharp stanley knife/blade
14mm open ender
Small shifting spanner
Speed wrench with long extension
Allen key
12mm socket
Drill & bit
3 beers (your choice...must be cold)
30+ for crack burn (Yes I use kids lotion it's great & makes you feel young)
Bottle of Cardonwah or goon (Keep the missus of your back while you are working on your car AGAIN & ignoring her needs)
Pocket knife (self defence against attacking wild animals or if you feel a bit stabby)
Some rockin' beats to listen to and mute your profanity



Parts I used.......

DSC_0678_zpsdced8c54.jpg


4 x 4" Hose clamps
Pod filter
10" of 3" wide stainless tube
3" x red rubber joiner hose
2.5" to 3" rubber reducer joiner hose
3" Right angle bend intercooler tubing
Factory fender delete plate
1/2 a foot of ol vac hose
1" round head hex bolt & nut
Various washers


I was lucky enough to have all these parts sitting around the shed from my previous attempt at a CAI on my N/A 2.5.

The cost of the components was minimal, but remember Ebay & Bunnings is your Ghetto Spec friend.
Pod cost me $20 bucks, it's washable and the main reason I did this all....to reduce running costs.
Rubber joiners were about $10 each as was the intercooler bend from Supacheap.
The Straight pipe I found in a bin at work along with the Skrillex cd.
Hose clamps.... If you need to ask how much they are you seriously need to GTFO of the forum and go back to picking up Aluminium cans & stealing your neighbours copper pipes. No one likes you...deal with it!

I suppose you could use PVC instead of stainless & duct tape instead of joiners it all depends on what you want in the end.

POV Spec? http://www.subyclub....MO_DIR#/nea.gif Losing!

Ghetto Spec? http://www.subyclub....O_DIR#/cool.png Winning FTW!


Step 1

Assembly of the pipes & pod.....

DSC_0681_zps67cd3235.jpg

First I drilled a hole in the straight pipe about 2" down to insert a bolt that would fix the assembly to the inner side of the guard.
(No cable ties used here thank you very much).

This was time consuming and killed several drill bits but... meh.

I used a rounded top hex nut bolt so it would sit flush on the inside of the pipe, more so than the traditional hex head bolt.

DSC_0682_zps40a1c0ec.jpg

The red washers give it an air tight seal so no dirt or shit can enter the intake at that point and it's all held firmly in place. So there will be no issue of them falling off and getting sucked into the engine
.
On the outside I added a couple of red washers, a regular washer and then a spring loaded washer before chucking on a lock nut to keep it all in check. Tightened it all up, done.


Step 2

The next step was to assemble the whole pod & pipe assembly using the 3" rubber joiner & 3 hose clamps.
The hose clamp joining on the curve was done up tight and the one attaching the straight pipe was left loose for twisting and adjustments once it was inserted into the guard for the trial fitting. Refinements.

I had to move the hose clamps around a bit in the trail fit so that the fasteners were no where near any of the wires in that area and could be accessed in the guard later on to tighten.
Keep this in mind!

DSC_0671_zpsc36a41c7.jpg



Step 3

The next step was to jack the car up & remove the wheel & plastic inner liner. Do your research if unsure on how to do this. IDGAF!

Then I completely removed the factory air filter box top & bottom (12mm speed wrench), in guard resonator & cold air pick up that picks up air from behind the grille. (10mm socket used for this. Not pictured)

These bits....

DSC_0696_zpsf9f7dc8c.jpg

Take note of the bolt that hold the resonator in place. It can be accessed from in side the engine bay (10mm nut) don't just try to rip the whole thing out if you want to use it again. It will be Forke.png ed




Step 4

Next I gently unplugged the MAF sensor and removed the whole air filter box lid assembly along with the MAF. Then I moved all hoses & cables away from that area to create space for the mock insertion of the CAI.






STOP RIGHT THERE!!!!

Now is the perfect time to go get more beer (3 isn't enough)
& also clean the MAF sensor. (if you have one)
It is inside the tube attached to the top part of the air filter box.....

There it is. The thing with the screws holding in place.

DSC_0698_zps72e088d4.jpg


Here's how it looks inside the housing.

DSC_0697_zps42e308c3.jpg


The wire bit that looks like a match stick yes. This ones clean but if it looks like a burnt match then it's not doing it's job properly.

You want to spray the wire part with cleaner. There are many variations you can use. (Again, Google, you dick)


I use this stuff....alot! http://www.subyclub....#/sarcastic.gif

DSC_0686_zps25d0ef21.jpg


Spray it, don't touch or wipe it or you will be up for a new one.

Spray it on liberally (That's what your mum said last night), count to 5 & you are done. Happy times!



The rubber is for happy times later with the missus or your mum http://www.subyclub....O_DIR#/wink.png




Getting back on track....

Step 5

Next I put the CAI roughly in place & inserted the curve part of the Cai (from inside the guard) through the hole where it would enter the air filter box. A few minor adjustments at the joiner and it sat goooood.

I then used the bolt on the CAI pipe to mark (on the inside of the guard) the point where I would drill the mounting hole through to the engine bay for that bolt. Then removed the Cai and got set to drill my hole.

At this point I realised the hole would be close to the ABS module so I removed its retaining bolts and gently moved it aside slightly for safety & access. Safe not sorry.

I carefully drilled my mounting hole from inside the guard.

Then I split some vac hose to make a protective edge guard for where the curved pipe enters the engine bay to stop it rubbing and banging around as you can see in the picture. Tight is good.



DSC_0684_zps7eba1683.jpg


The ABS module lock nut was accessed through the large hole above the screwdriver with a 14mm open ended spanner.
The screw driver is in the hole I drilled. Pretty close to the ABS so it was worth moving.




Step 6

On the bottom of the filter box were 2 drain holes which I sealed with electrical tape & covered that with duct tape. Then I put the bottom section of the filter box back into its place. (Not bolted down yet)

I put the CAI in place and wacked a couple washers on the bolt sticking through into the engine bay & tightened the retaining nut onto the bolt. (Scratching the paint in the process as you will no doubt have pointed out if I didn't mention it)

DSC_0669_zps126ecfc3.jpg

NOTE Put the bottom filter box section in place before tightening your retaining nut as you wont be able to get it in place once the retaining bolt is tightened. Trust me http://www.subyclub....O_DIR#/wink.png


Step 7

Next I fastened down the ABS unit & air filter box. (12mm speed wrench)

DSC_0665_zpsadabd3bb.jpg

Can't see no more scratches!




Step 8

I went back into the guard and tightened up all the hose clamps.

Then took the 3" to 2" reducer hose and put it on the pipe sticking through the filter box pressing it on firmly to create an extra seal against the box then clamped it in place with the last hose clamp. This is also the second fastening point for the whole CAI.

I trimmed off the overhanging hose for a flush fit and put the delete panel in place.


DSC_0663_zpsc95bda9e.jpg



Step 10

The top lid went back on the filter box & I bent the lid clamps a bit for a firm fit.
AFM plug & hoses were returned to their places, hose clamps tightened & nearly done.

Put my wheel back on & tighten up the lug nuts.

Jack & stand removed.

Party time!



The finished job


DSC_0661_zps40534e02.jpg




Or is it?





Pop quiz kiddies


There are a couple of issues that have been missed. Some of which could damage the engine or even cause a catastrophic failure.

What's missing from this set up that might cause future problems & how can I fix ?

What else should I do next?



This is your homework!


Thank you for your time & until next time,
Subys FTW

WHITEKONG OUT! http://www.subyclub....O_DIR#/cool.png

Class dismissed.

#2 nickknack

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 01:23 AM

Neat idea with the split vac hose. Mine rattles like a motherfucker!

#3 TSG

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 01:24 AM

I never drink alcohol when working on my car. I do however require atleast one sammich and a glass of soft drink in 30min intervals. I like your work with the IC and a squirt of red lol.

I think thats the point most people seem to miss lately, most modifications are just done for fun by people having a go, as long as they aren't dangerous or obnoxious I have no problems with them.

#4 Guest_KONG_*

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 01:39 AM


I never drink alcohol when working on my car. I do however require atleast one sammich and a glass of soft drink in 30min intervals


My god that's a soft approach!



I like your work with the IC and a squirt of red lol.


Twas the previous owner my man. Not I



I think thats the point most people seem to miss lately, most modifications are just done for fun by people having a go, as long as they aren't dangerous or obnoxious I have no problems with them.

My sentiments exactly. I forgive you for being a beer ***.

What's your home work answer boys?

#5 Guest_KONG_*

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 01:45 AM

Neat idea with the split vac hose. Mine rattles like a motherfucker!

Lol

Fix that shit & do your home work!

#6 Cam.

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 06:05 AM

Mad idea and good work.

I put a cai on my old wrx. I got the car tuned and it did nothing.

Sounded insane, Fluttered ect.

These things make you run lean. Nasty lean before a tune.

Asb2OgK.jpg?1


#7 Adam

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 06:47 AM

Awesome write up :)

Posted Image

 

#8 Shaz

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 07:32 AM

Hahahaha, love the write up man.

Awesome DIY too. SHould be stickied.
 


I put up with people from amnesty, red cross and now the cancer council almost daily hounding me!! Throw in the greens, green peace, unhcr, save the forking children and I've well and truly hit my limit for the number of fuckstains wanting me to sign something or give money. Seriously cubts,  :fork: right off.
 

 

#9 Guest_KONG_*

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 07:50 AM

Mad idea and good work.

I put a cai on my old wrx. I got the car tuned and it did nothing.

Sounded insane, Fluttered ect.

These things make you run lean. Nasty lean before a tune.

Thanks Cam.
The stock BOV sounds wicked now. 3 times as loud. Drove past some kids yesterday and one said WTF was that !!!lol.

Your homework score is B+ A+ cause you did some hands on research. Well done!

Needs a tune stat! Also a wash..

#10 RX25SE

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 07:52 AM

thumbsup.jpeg

If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?

 


#11 Guest_KONG_*

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 07:58 AM

Can any one else think of something that might cause problems down the track besides the engine running lean?

HINT:

A design fault issue where foreign particles might enter the intake system.

#12 mark300

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 08:13 AM

awesome write up mate! really interesting and a few laughs in there even!

ill take a stab at the homework question!

if you dont cover the original intake hole into the airbox, you will get foreign particles entering the intake system?

#13 Morgan

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 08:46 AM

Haha awesome write up!

I'd be worried having the POD down so low... I'd do this purely for the awesome induction sound though!

IM47Gcv.jpg


#14 Guest_KONG_*

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 08:50 AM

Cheers Mark.



ill take a stab at the homework question!

if you dont cover the original intake hole into the airbox, you will get foreign particles entering the intake system?


By "Original intake hole" I think you mean where the bent intercooler pipe goes into the stock air filter box. This is very true.

The stock air box does have a rubber seal there & the pipe that was inserted through it was not fully sealed initially. But I did manage to seal that area with the red 3" to 2.5" reducer rubber hose & hose clamp inside the air box.

Very close!!!! We are in the right area kiddies!

Your score is an A-
Good work

#15 bobbyjimmy

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 08:50 AM

Doesn't the stock panel filter use the outer gasket to seal the air box?

2002 Outback - it's gone...


#16 Guest_KONG_*

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 08:57 AM

Haha awesome write up!

I'd be worried having the POD down so low... I'd do this purely for the awesome induction sound though!

Cheers Morgan

The pod is quite low. It is not sticking out or any thing but I will slide it up the pipe an inch just to be cautious.

Well spotted
A-

#17 Guest_KONG_*

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 09:03 AM

Doesn't the stock panel filter use the outer gasket to seal the air box?



WE HAVE A WINNER!

A+ For you!

Well done Bobbyjimmy!
Very well done!

Yes the stock panel filter which was removed and not replaced creates a seal between the 2 parts of the air filter box.

It will not seal properly with out some kind of substitute and grit may enter the intake.

Spot on!

#18 bobbyjimmy

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 09:04 AM

Don't think I've got an A+ ever before.

2002 Outback - it's gone...


#19 Guest_KONG_*

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 09:05 AM

EXTRA CREDIT POINT QUESTION


How can we solve this problem???

#20 Morgan

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 09:07 AM

SIKAFLEXXXX

IM47Gcv.jpg






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