10 replies to this topic

[Mbooma]

Hey guys as of this morning i found i had a radiator leak so im gonna do a full service
quick questions

-using the upper engine cleaner on an auto twin turbo gen 3 wat the best way to do it an best place to spray it in

-best thickness of oil ?

I no its easy stuff but havnt owned a twin turbo for long an wanna make sure i do it right

thanks

[Mbooma]

Also is it worth looking for a stainless steel raditator or not worth the extra money..

[Robbks]

Magnatec 10W40, it's simple, effective and cheap.
change at 5000km intervals. especially in a B4 which is prone to blow big-ends

UEC can go in any of the vac lines that go into the intake manifold.

Also woth doing is opening up the solenoid box and use UEC into each solenoid and vacuum line.
then do it through all the other vacuum lines too.
they fill up with blow-by deposits and eventually block up and the TT system will give you grief

I also suggest putting it into diagnostic/ check mode with the engine running. so that it operates the solenoids
i.e connect the green diagnostic plugs up under the dash together and start the engine. you'll hear the fans cycle and all the solenoids bang away

[Mbooma]

Ok so use uec in all vaccum lines as in which lines there are the 3 lines next to eaxh other on the manifold ...so spray in those holes an through the lines? wat other lines?
Sorry if they are stupid questons boxers confuse me lol

[Robbks]

If boxer's confuse you, then having on with the TT system will totally fu(k you up..


for the usual UEC treatment, pick one of the three lines at the front of the manifold (pick one without the grey buffer thing) and spray into the manifold as directed.

then you want to clean out the rest of the vacuum system.
If it's a rubber or silicone vacuum line going anywhere near teh black solenoid box or under the intercooler, and all the small metal pipes across the top, clean them out
 

[allpaw4]

Remember to do UEC before you change the oil. Not after.

Also, you will need to either use a 2L coke bottle and electrical tape, or buy a proper bleed kit for coolant that clips onto the spot the radiator cap goes - otherwise you'll be forever chasing air pockets, and may end up with the waterfall behind the dash sounds on startup.

[Mbooma]

Ok service went well except i had to change my top rad pipe as it cracked

but i do hav a questio

Wat is this...??

Circled red...

1. wat is it an wat does it do
an
2. The pipe on the right (circled red 2 ) was not connected should it be connected??

[Mbooma]

Ok service went well except i had to change my top rad pipe as it cracked

but i do hav a questio

Wat is this...??

Circled red...

1. wat is it an wat does it do
an
2. The pipe on the right (circled red 2 ) was not connected should it be connected??

[Jimbo]

Your circling is a little vague, there's a million hoses in your circle!

The thicker one that goes to a metal tube and runs along the firewall is the brake booster line. Bad news if that's disconnected, no brake assistance.

The black box with the 2 lines going into it and the connector plug, that's your Pressure Differential sensor, this tells your ECU when to open up the secondary turbo.

The metal lines on the firewall are clutch/brake related.

The red line looks to be an extra earthing line or something related to a sound system install.

[Jimbo]

Does it run right?

Do you get changeover at somehwere about 3500/4000rpm with solid performance?