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Your Guide To Twin Turbo


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#21 Jimbo

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Posted 14 April 2014 - 10:52 PM

haha when it stops forking raining i will!


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#22 aekOne

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Posted 14 April 2014 - 10:59 PM

And pics & build thread cubt!?


THIS

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#23 Tim.

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Posted 17 April 2014 - 08:39 PM

I have a rev C, there wasn't a pill in the bov line however it was replaced when I had it tuned with a straight feed from the manifold. So no T on that line anymore. (I have an aftermarket bov as well)

#24 Zac

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Posted 17 April 2014 - 09:49 PM

Oh!

 

So that is how the B4 engine works(or doesn't)

 

Thanks Jimbo :)


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#25 duncanm

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Posted 21 June 2014 - 10:56 PM

Useful BH JDM TT info here, including wiring diagrams.

#26 KONG

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Posted 27 July 2014 - 12:20 PM

DDDD_zpsdfe2e996.jpgCaptureKKKKNKJB_zps05319b2d.jpg



#27 allpaw4

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Posted 01 August 2014 - 06:57 PM

This thread almost makes me want to go and buy another B4 and tinker to try and make it brilliant. Almost. I don't have a spare 8k lol
This sort of info would have been invaluable when mine was still running the TT system. Nice collation of bits gentlemen.

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MY97 Silver RX, aka 'The Track Toy' - All good bits from B4 will find their way into this...
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#28 KONG

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Posted 02 August 2014 - 02:34 AM

HOSE 10 MOD

 

 

TT owners who have lashed out for the GFB BOV or another aftermarket Bov, the chances are the standard vac line plumbing isn't providing enough boost for the valve to work properly.
 
When you install an aftermarket BOV you need to change the stock vac line set up to what is called the "Hose 10 mod".
This mod can also be used with the standard factory BOV.

Most of the B4's with aftermarket BOV's that I have worked on still had the standard vac line set up.  Basically the pressure to the Bov is not sufficient to keep the valve fully closed under boost. 

After the line mod they performed much better with higher boost & less VOD.
 
For a Rev D a single hose from the manifold hard pipe is the best set up.... Like below
 
 
DSC_0161_zps3b97a80d.jpg
 
 The smaller line that is T'd into that original line is removed/bypassed or blocked.
 
 
 
The line that I'm holding in the pic below is the one that you remove.  It's the cross over line that connects to the line coming off the boost solenoid from in the guard that leads back to the air inlet pipe.

DSC_0176_zpsaafede71.jpg
 
 
Alternately, you can just cut that line and block both ends.

This line has a restrictor pill in it, so hang onto it if you are planning to go back to the oem set up at any point in the future. 
 
Bypass this line if you have an aftermarket BOV.

 

Simple.

 



#29 Tim.

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Posted 02 August 2014 - 01:11 PM

I concur, this is how mine's set up as well.

I only have two restrictor pills though, one in the number 2 line inside the bbod and the other in the wastegate line (for those of you playing at home with an early revision import TT)

#30 LIBBY_B4

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Posted 02 August 2014 - 07:57 PM

I removed the tee piece today and new vac lines. I was running around 16 pound on secondary. Now it's boosting at 18. Great little mod.

#31 KONG

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Posted 02 August 2014 - 08:11 PM

I removed the tee piece today and new vac lines. I was running around 16 pound on secondary. Now it's boosting at 18. Great little mod.

 

That's awesome dude. The BOV on full atmo will be twice as loud also.

 

Enjoy the Boost!



#32 LIBBY_B4

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Posted 02 August 2014 - 08:36 PM

Yeh no doubt! Even that small change the noise was significant from the cabin.

Unsure about going full atmo tho. as I've heard it can cause damage due to not recirculating. Have I heard right?

#33 KONG

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Posted 02 August 2014 - 08:53 PM

Some engines don't like it I've heard. Mine has no problem with it.

 

I also have 2 x 10c pieces shimming up the valve spring as well as having the front allen key adjustment wound in most of the way. Why waste boost?

I like a tight valve. I get a soft flutter on primary,but the spool time doesn't suffer.

 

My ECU is tuned and I think the GFB BOV spring isn't strong enough to hold the additional psi. Your's may be ok but I'd wind "IN" the adjuster to see how your car responds. Might still be leaking slightly at high boost. You gotta play with different settings to see what your car responds to & likes.



#34 LIBBY_B4

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Posted 02 August 2014 - 09:05 PM

Yeh mine is wound most of the way in too.

I'm the same.. Why waste boost. Tuned also but seems to handle the additional power pretty well without too many dramas.

Have a few issues previously/currently with idle and the check engine light coming on and revs dropping to near nothing. Cleaned maf, checked throttle solinoid, but can't seem to nut it out yet. Maybe O2 sensor?

#35 duncanm

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Posted 02 August 2014 - 09:13 PM

IACV ?



#36 KONG

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Posted 02 August 2014 - 09:17 PM

Intake air controll valve.

 

The flap in the intercooler piping from the secondary that is closed while only the primary is in opperation.

 

 

 

Not to be confused with the Idle Air Contol Valve.



#37 LIBBY_B4

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Posted 02 August 2014 - 09:19 PM

Cheers. Won't clog this thread.

Clean or replace IACV?

#38 KONG

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Posted 02 August 2014 - 09:19 PM

O2 would cause a CEL.

 

Clean the IdleACV. Might help.

 

Cold engine, intercooler off, spray UEC up into the IACV through the throttlebody.



#39 LIBBY_B4

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Posted 02 August 2014 - 09:27 PM

Appreciate the help.

#40 KONG

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Posted 02 August 2014 - 09:30 PM

Appreciate the help.

 

 

HPF tune?






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