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Member Since 26 Jun 2017
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 07:23 PM

Topics I've Started

Gen 3 HVAC Colour Change incl display

14 April 2019 - 09:25 PM

Hey guys, 

Like most gen 3 owners, I have a dislike for the green HVAC controls. Especially now with a BFM and a modern headunit, it sticks out. 

So, I've been researching this pretty constantly and I finally figured it out. First note; it's not an LCD. It's a VFD. 

If you're on Import Monster for gen 3's often, you've probably seen this image around.

Attached File  v539040113.jpg   16.65KB   4 downloads

Well, I figured it out. I'll skip to the chase. You need this. 


I'll post progress as I start receiving things and stuff and start doing stuff and things. 



AMG Big Brake Kit... adapters?

08 April 2019 - 12:23 AM

Howdy all. 

So it was late, not a creature was stirring except.. (the 4 assholes in..), no no, me. Not Die Hard.

Anyway, I was perusing guides/forums on big brakes for our cars (my god Caddy CTS 4 pots are popular) and something struck me, not literally. 

No one really has a guide to fit 6 pots from one of the many manufacturers that offer them, most of the time, in the form of Alcon or Brembo.

As I found, the ever-popular Caddy brake solution and the 6 pots they offer, won't fit. Plainly, because of the mounting bracket, it would interfere with the knuckle, and the caliper can't be modified thanks in part, to the mounting being a part of the caliper casting. 

Thankfully, Caddy are not the only manufacturer that uses a Brembo 6 pot caliper. AMG also does. 

And as the images will show (and some of you will click instantly), they're designed... differently, to the CTS ones. For those of you who don't get it, unlike the CTS 6 pots, the mount isn't moulded! In fact, the design resembles the same as you would see from an aftermarket brake kit (Like the Brembo GT 6 pot). 

So, I'm thinking of buying a caliper (the one pictured for example, is $374USD for the caliper and pads, for reference, a Brembo GT 6 pot front kit is over $5,000) and seeing if I can mock up a bracket that would screw onto the caliper, then onto my knuckle. 

A pricey project but I think it's doable. The most expensive part is rotors. However, there are numerous sources for custom rotors in any design required. 

So... comments? Thoughts? I think there's method(logy) to my madness. 



How to make cruise control work in a manual swapped gen 3

21 October 2018 - 08:50 PM

Hey guys! Currently spamming Subyclub with my brain cache. 
This guide is not finished, I will finish it soon. 
Main points: 
1. The cruise control module is set to expect voltage when the AT inhibitor switch is outside of the "P" or "N" parameters. The best solution for this is to provide constant voltage. May require switched 12v+ (confirmed for module to receive battery float voltage of ~12v)
2. The "brake switch" found on the brake pedal interfaces directly with the CC module - this will need to be wired to the clutch switch so the cancellation function will work when clutch is disengaged - this is necessary as the engine will continue accelerating when clutch is disengaged and the CC doesn't disengage the throttle.
3. CC module usually depends on TCU to provide vehicle speed - wire from VSS signal wire direct to cruise control module should remedy this. 
All other wiring appears to be identical between H4 auto/manual and H6 auto systems. 
Step 1: Check for battery voltage on pin 4 on Cruise Control Module I/O connector. If 0, find constant or switched (would recommend ignition switched to prevent future issues with battery drain etc) power and wire to pin 4. (rectify as FSM used is USDM - page CC-7) 
Step 2. Wire in the clutch switch. This section is very easy, as we're utilising the existing wiring from the brake switch that is used for the cruise control system. There is two additional wires going to the brake switch that are used primarily for the either the cruise function or for the tail lights. Make sure to cut the right ones. Once these wires are cut, splice plug for clutch switch into these wires (and extend wires if required - unsure at this time) and plug into the clutch switch found at the top of the pedal. No wire/page references needed, it's literally as simple as it sounds.
Step 3. Provide the cruise control module with speed values. Again, relatively easily done. Essentially, this is one wire used as a signal wire from the TCU's "VSS". We're replacing that, now defunct wire, with the VSS's speed signal wire. Now, if you, like me, used an auto H6 wiring harness, the wiring you did to wire the VSS in to the ECU/cluster unfortunately still will not save time time here. We have to tee off from the VSS speed signal wire and send that to the CC module. Pin reference #19, connector B29. (again, rectify as per USDM FSM page CC-29)
Guide finished prior to execution/testing. Pics will follow.

thanks guys

General for swapping a Spec B 6MT and an R180 into a gen 3 Liberty

21 October 2018 - 08:31 PM

Hello all! 

I decided to write this wee guide just as a public noteboard for myself and anyone else who may want to do the same thing. It's very specific as a lot of the information isn't relevant for other 6MT swaps, such as a full drivetrain from a GD STi, which is ideal for the BE/BH platform. However, if like me, you picked up a Spec B GT 6MT/R180 combo for stupid cheap, you're not gonna turn it down, unless you're mad.  

There's a several lack of images at the moment thanks to a dead phone. Sorry!

So, I'm gonna separate this in to sections and break each section down for ease. 

First up! Parts list! 

K, this is simple. 

You need the box (mine is the TY856WWDAD - so open front diff, viscous centre and torsen LSD 180 rear)
6 speed flywheel and clutch kit
A GD STi shifter linkage 
An auto gen 3 tailshaft (must be gen 3 and auto!)
Spec B R180 hybrid axles (unless you decide to go with the Suberdave route which is required if you want an R180 AND ABS to function or an R160) 
Front axles (we'll look into this because it's important and I f**ked up)
A speedo solution (we'll look into this shortly also)

I could add a heap of part numbers here but realistically, you get the gist. A lot of crap. 

Right, let's break it down. 

Front CV axles

Okay, so, as I noted earlier, this is important as I did indeed fk up. I ordered gen 4 front shafts under the illusion that they must be the same, right? Lolno. The outer spline (what goes into your spindle) is actually about 10mm short, meaning your nut can't be tightened all the way and thus, is no good. 

One of the correct ways to do it (credit to Jono Wichert for this valuable piece of information) is to convert the gearbox into a male (and no, not once of the operations you keep hearing about). The best way to do this, is source AUTO (apparently autos and 6MT's have an awful lot of cross compatibility) stub axles, CV's and front axles seals to suit whatever box you sourced the rest from (e.g. I got my stubs and CV's from a gen 3 auto, so I ordered front axle seals to suit that). I'll update this once I get my seals and can take pictures. 

One very important factor of this is that it also retains your ABS tone rings. They're necessary for part of the next section..  

A speedo solution

Now, given that the box is from a gen 4, they (Subaru) decided to move to a CANBUS in-car network which meant the removal of the VSS (vehicle speed sensor). So, you can't just slap your VSS in from your 5 speed... 

...or can you? 

No, but you CAN if you speak to your local reputable workshop that knows the Subaru 6 speed and the task you're asking for. You can have a VSS port machined in and a kit fitted to restore mechanical speed sensing. 

Aside from that, there's two solutions available overseas that utilise the existing ABS tone rings to provide you with a VSS signal. 

They are.. 

VSSPro by DCCDPro https://www.dccdpro....product/vsspro/
VSS by MAPDCCD http://mapdccd.com/vss.html

Recommendations vary, I chose to buy the MAPDCCD unit. 

(edited) Notes for lightweight flywheel users

When we fitted the Chromoly Lightweight, the stock flywheel bolts were about 10mm too long. You could get some factory ones and have them machined down (what we did on the lathe) or get some shorter bolts. Anyone have an idea on factory flywheel bolts that are shorter?

I'll add revisions, pics and more information as I go. Thanks.