I have no idea where to begin troubleshooting this cel. I know it is supercharging oppression output according to the cel chart but where is the sensor if at all it is a sensor? Where do i beging!!!???
Please help!
Thanks.
96 BG5 GT-B CEL ERROR 44
Started by mwitacharles, Apr 14 2013 05:23 PM
35 replies to this topic
#2
Jimbo
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Posted 14 April 2013 - 05:46 PM
#44 Wastegate Duty Solenoid (Turbo Models)
Are you certain you have a GT-B? Im a bit rusty on TT stuff, but there's a boost control solenoid down inside the inner guard on the passenger side. Either that or somethings cacked it in your black box (driver side strut tower).
Are you certain you have a GT-B? Im a bit rusty on TT stuff, but there's a boost control solenoid down inside the inner guard on the passenger side. Either that or somethings cacked it in your black box (driver side strut tower).
'04 Liberty GT Premium "The Sprog Chariot"
#3
mwitacharles
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Posted 14 April 2013 - 06:51 PM
Yes I am certain I have a GT-B. the body code is BG5BCD with the EJ20R engine! The code only comes on when i am driving moderately. when i get aggressive, the cel goes off but as soon as i let off, it comes back on. on the chart it says supercharging oppression output and i have no idea what that is!
#4
Jimbo
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Posted 15 April 2013 - 10:38 PM
If your confident, have a crack at taking out your black box and replacing all the vacuum lines (bear in mind some do have restrictor pills in them) and cleaning all the solenoids out. While your at it, do all the other vacuum lines aswell throughout the engine bay. You may have oil and scum clogging up a line or sensor somewhere, they're very temperamental set ups.
'04 Liberty GT Premium "The Sprog Chariot"
#5
peteRS
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Posted 15 April 2013 - 10:40 PM
they got teh BAD aids.
#6
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Posted 16 April 2013 - 06:05 AM
If it's throwing the code for the wastegate control solenoid it's probably best to start with that.
Pull it out and clean it with carb cleaner & inspect the vac lines for splits and the like. Even if that sorts out your issue it's still a good idea to replace all your vac lines including the ones inside the BBOD as Jimbo mentioned especially if they are the ones the car came out of the shop with.
A good way to check the integrity of vac lines is to use a syringe full of carb cleaner in one end of the line while you block off the other end with your thumb. The cleaning fluid will squirt out of any holes. You can also this method to pump cleaner through your solenoids to clean them. I hook up a spare piece of hose to both ports on the solenoid and flush it through in both directions. While doing this you need to plug in the green & black ECM check plugs under the dash and turn the ignition to on. You will hear the solenoids clicking open & closed in cycles & also the thermo fans kicking in.
If you are going to replace the vac lines do them one at a time to avoid hooking them back up incorrectly.
These threads will help you so read up.
What each solenoid does.....
http://www.veloce.pw...on/ttopprt2.htm
Restrictor pill locations.....
http://www.subyclub....oosting-issues/
Use upper engine cleaner regularly to slow down the fouling up of solenoids.
Old vac lines are
'ed vac lines!
If the problem persists you may need to try a new Wastegate control solenoid but check it's wiring and plug connection before forking out for a new one.
Pull it out and clean it with carb cleaner & inspect the vac lines for splits and the like. Even if that sorts out your issue it's still a good idea to replace all your vac lines including the ones inside the BBOD as Jimbo mentioned especially if they are the ones the car came out of the shop with.
A good way to check the integrity of vac lines is to use a syringe full of carb cleaner in one end of the line while you block off the other end with your thumb. The cleaning fluid will squirt out of any holes. You can also this method to pump cleaner through your solenoids to clean them. I hook up a spare piece of hose to both ports on the solenoid and flush it through in both directions. While doing this you need to plug in the green & black ECM check plugs under the dash and turn the ignition to on. You will hear the solenoids clicking open & closed in cycles & also the thermo fans kicking in.
If you are going to replace the vac lines do them one at a time to avoid hooking them back up incorrectly.
These threads will help you so read up.
What each solenoid does.....
http://www.veloce.pw...on/ttopprt2.htm
Restrictor pill locations.....
http://www.subyclub....oosting-issues/
Use upper engine cleaner regularly to slow down the fouling up of solenoids.
Old vac lines are
'ed vac lines!If the problem persists you may need to try a new Wastegate control solenoid but check it's wiring and plug connection before forking out for a new one.
#7
mwitacharles
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Posted 16 April 2013 - 01:49 PM
Thanks for the info guys!!!! Will have a go at it and report the results.
#8
mwitacharles
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Posted 29 April 2013 - 07:55 PM
so I did everything that was suggested and even got new solenoids but the code is still there!!! I am thinking of checking the ecu to see if this will change anything
#9
aekOne
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#10
tmh983
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Posted 29 April 2013 - 08:05 PM
did u replace the main boost solenoid which is inside the passenger guard?
(at least it is on gen 3, i assume gen 2 was the same)
(at least it is on gen 3, i assume gen 2 was the same)
#11
mwitacharles
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Posted 29 April 2013 - 09:28 PM
yes i did reset the ecu!!! and I changed the solenoid inside the passenger guard. The problem is still the same though. I think maybe it might be a short circuit from the passenger wing solenoid!
#12
tmh983
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Posted 30 April 2013 - 10:21 AM
check you are getting 12V on one of the pins of the boost solenoid plug.
If you are getting 12V, then check the resistance of the other pin to ground, should be several kOhms.
If there is no short to ground, find the corresponding pin on the ecu and make sure there is continuity from the solenoid to the ecu.
Somewhere in that lot you should be able to find the problem, if you can't find and wiring faults then maybe look at changing the ecu
If you are getting 12V, then check the resistance of the other pin to ground, should be several kOhms.
If there is no short to ground, find the corresponding pin on the ecu and make sure there is continuity from the solenoid to the ecu.
Somewhere in that lot you should be able to find the problem, if you can't find and wiring faults then maybe look at changing the ecu
#13
mwitacharles
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Posted 06 May 2013 - 02:22 PM
Checked the ecu and was getting 12v at one of the pins of the boost solenoid plug. evrything seems find but still getting 44 and if i push it hard i get 66. also if i gradually accelerate, the check engine light goes off but comes back on when on fourth or fifth when i try to get more power. This is really frustrating me but i am determined to get to the bottom of it!!
any ideas on where to go next?
any ideas on where to go next?
#14
tmh983
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Posted 06 May 2013 - 10:26 PM
if ur positive there is no wiring fault with the boost solenoid, maybe look into the map sensor, could be giving some strange readings making the ecu think there is something wrong with the boost solenoids.
or see if u can try a new ecu.
does it always throw the code at the same boost level or rpm?
or see if u can try a new ecu.
does it always throw the code at the same boost level or rpm?
#15
mwitacharles
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Posted 07 May 2013 - 12:40 AM
yes it does throw the code at the same boost level and rpm!! If there is a wiring fault to the solenoid, could it damage the ecu? I sure hope not!!!
#16
tmh983
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Posted 07 May 2013 - 08:36 AM
it is unlikely a wiring fault would damage the ecu, all it does is pull the solenoid output to earth to fire the solenoid. The only way it would be damaged is if a 12V source was put directly onto the pin (ie. bypassing the solenoid).
But its possible the ecu's output driver has burned out due to age, vibration etc...
If you can get ur hands on an oscilloscope, you could put it onto the output wire and see if the pwm waveform is present.
But its possible the ecu's output driver has burned out due to age, vibration etc...
If you can get ur hands on an oscilloscope, you could put it onto the output wire and see if the pwm waveform is present.
#17
mwitacharles
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Posted 07 May 2013 - 09:03 PM
unfortunately I cant get that kind of equipment from here!!! do you by any chance know the ecu pinouts for the wastegate control solenoid? I wanted to measure that directly for the ecu to see if the signal is correct from there before looking for any nicks in the wiring to the solenoid itself.
#18
tmh983
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Posted 09 May 2013 - 05:06 PM
no idea which pin sorry. The only way you will be able to check the ecu output is with an oscilloscope... unless you have a really fancy multimeter. where are you located, have an oscilloscope you can borrow if your anywhere near newcastle
#19
mwitacharles
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Posted 09 May 2013 - 06:39 PM
sorry mate! am from east africa nairobi!!!! Thanks for your help though. will try and figure out a way to do this without an oscilloscope. I have a pinout chart for the 3 pin 4g ecu i have in the car but I cant figure out which wire goes where!!
#20
acres
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Posted 10 May 2013 - 08:18 AM
On the 4g ecu, wastegate duty solenoid is pin 8. The wire colour is RW (red with white stripe). When looking at the plugs on the ecu, pin 8 is on the top row, third from the right on the larger 26 pin plug (the plug on the left hand side).
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
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