10 replies to this topic

[Barbbachello]

2 question about putting this thing back together

1: Cam shafts; is there a certain way these things go in? The FSM says to measure some angles and shit but some DIYs ive read havent mention it and have just plonked them in. Obviously the FSM is the best route but how crucial are these angles?

2: Head torquing. I understand all of it up until this last section.

80 whats?

Also any other tips and tricks you may have to offer are appreciated  

Cheers in advance

[Niko]

Yeah, he knows what the symbol for degrees is, I think he was confused as to whether it was 'by 80 xy to 90 degrees', or 'by 80-90 degrees'.

 

I would say if it were by '80 xy' instead of 80 degrees they would no doubt have put the unit next to 80, but as it reads I would put money on degrees. much like you would write '20 to 30m'.

 

 

As for camshafts, where the fork are they measuring the angles from on the shaft? Doesn't seem to be a point of reference on the shaft that they are measuring off consistently.

 

Hmm seems that you measure them from your timing markings.

 

This may help;

 

http://www.clubwrx.n...shaft-spin.html

[Barbbachello]

Ok I understand the head torque bit now. I kinda understand the cams. Will need to have a look at how everything goes together and if there's some marks to go by. Thanks guys

[duncanm]

you just want the cams to flop to their 'all valves closed' position so there's no open valve that can crunch a raised piston or another valve. If you look at your pic with all the angles and shit, both lobes are pointing up - valves closed.

 

Then be careful with the direction you turn the cams once you've got the heads on and you put on your timing belt - otherwise you might have intake and exhaust clash. The direction is specified in the FSM.

[Barbbachello]

you just want the cams to flop to their 'all valves closed' position so there's no open valve that can crunch a raised piston or another valve. If you look at your pic with all the angles and shit, both lobes are pointing up - valves closed.

 

Then be careful with the direction you turn the cams once you've got the heads on and you put on your timing belt - otherwise you might have intake and exhaust clash. The direction is specified in the FSM.

"all valves closed position" makes perfect sense. Thanks a bunch

.I had a terrible moment when taking the cam gears off and the impact kicked the gear. Luckily it moved the right way and the other cam stayed still so no valve smashing happened. 

 

[duncanm]

.I had a terrible moment when taking the cam gears off and the impact kicked the gear. Luckily it moved the right way and the other cam stayed still so no valve smashing happened.
 

 

I think we've all had those at least once! - I always shit my pants, too. . but I also suspect they're all benign (others may know better)... the valve springs all want to force the cam around to the closed position,  so no valves should be getting pushed further open.

[Barbbachello]

I spent about 2 hours reading about it. Theres a point at which the valve spring will kick it back the other way and thats when things go wrong. Also its when you move both the gears at the same time or have them both unaligned. Now i get to learn how to do the timing belt as well. Should be fun 

[Jimbo]

They do require a fair bit of force before you start getting a lobe to open a valve. By that point you should know it's not going to end well. Once it resists then bounces back and moves freely, your in the clear.

Make sure your camshaft caps and bolts all go exactly back where they were as they will be "worn" to how it was. Looks like you laid it all out and labelled it up the top so high fives for that.

When I do my timing belts, it's a bit neandertholic, but a few tips; before I remove the old belt I always make sure the crank markers line up by using a spanner to rotate the crank a bit. Once the belt is off and the cams are checked for position I usually use a set of vice grips to hold the passenger side sprockets ( I & E ) once they're lined up with the markings on the back of the black plastic timing case. Makes it a bit easier without bumping the sprockets and having to re-align them while trying to get the belt on.

The service manual describes the process pretty fool proof. It's nearly terrifying doing it for the first time but once you do it you kinda can't work out what you got nervous about!



Sometimes you just need technical answers as simple as possible. The books and guides can sometimes over-complicate the directions which make you start scratching your head. Then you realise how easy it is and how hard the literature makes it sound!

[duncanm]

 I usually use a set of vice grips to hold the passenger side sprockets ( I & E ) once they're lined up with the markings on the back of the black plastic timing case. Makes it a bit easier without bumping the sprockets and having to re-align them while trying to get the belt on.

 

This..  double plus.

 

I found big bulldog clips or simple woodworking-type spring clamps do the job well.

[Barbbachello]

Should make things 20x easier with the engine out

[Jimbo]

That too!


With the right tools on hand and a good working space, you can have an engine on the ground in less than an hour.