19 replies to this topic

[claire6]

Wondering if anyone can help me.
I have a major oil leak coming from turbo on drivers side any ideas to rectifying issue.
Start car up and literally drips oil down profusely.my02 b4.std engine and turbos.

[Zac]

Hmmm Turbo seal?? 

 

Replace turbo?

[duncanm]

The seal is usually internal - drips into exhaust / intake tracts and you blow a whole heap of oil smoke.

 

You might (hopefully) find its something as simple as one of the oil lines to/from the block. Each turbo has a hard pressurized feed line and a rubber low-pressure return line. 

 

With any luck, you've sprung a leak in one of the pressurized lines or banjo bolts.

[claire6]

Yes tgat wat i was hopibg for just don't have much experience on these engines.
Doesnt blow any smoke but drips constant amount of oil..
I had the vacuum line aroubd wrong way it was fine.as soon as put back to normal way oil drips..

[Jimbo]

As Dunc said, likely to be the feed or return. The feed will be easier to get to than the return. Take off (or get someone) to remove the heat shielding to get a better look. Trace the hardline till you find the source of the leak, be sure to check the bolts at either end for play.  If it's not the hardline, it'll be the return line which is a rubber one with a crappy pinch type clamp. If it's that, check the hose for splits or misalignment and pop on some proper hose clamps.

I don't understand what you're saying about the vacuum line.

[claire6]

Well the guy i bought it off said that turbo wasn't boosting like normal after he did front struts when he swapped the vacuum lines 1 and 2 over on the vacuum port near drivers strut tower oil started leaking out suggesting it only happens when pressure applied to turbo..
I had quick look yesterday and the centre clamp holding turbo together in middle did up a fair bit.im gonna put intercooler bak on and degrease and run this arvi c if any better if not ill check out oil return and feed lines for leaking.

[claire6]

Oil leaks seems to have stopped.
I dont know if was just to clamp being loose or he had vacuum lines around wrong way.maybe pressurised turbo and forcing oil out of clamp.

[duncanm]

Win!

well done.

I've no idea how the sealing on these turbos works -- but I'm guessing the swapped vac lines prevented the secondary exhaust valve ever opening up - so the secondary didn't see exhaust or intake pressure, and so no leaks.

As soon as you fixed the lines, secondary was spooled up and exit oil stage left.

[claire6]

Hi guys,oil leak has returned with a vengeance...
I dont think it is coming from the turbo i think its ccoming from the t piece breather just under the secondary turbo off the pcv..
Is this common?i checked pcv and it was gummed up a Bit so cleaned it out but yet to start motor and see if leak still pesent and as dramatic.

[Jimbo]

Oil shouldn't leak as such from there. If anything, just vapor will escape through the breathers, unless your crank case is heavily pressurised which means something is terribly wrong.

I'm still convinced it's the oil return line under the secondary, or the metal feed hard-pipe to the secondary head side.

 

[acres]

If it is a heavy leak then I also would be pointing fingers at the return line. The rubber hose goes hard and brittle and will consequently lose it's seal.

[claire6]

Thanks guys pulled all covers off cleaned pcv and degreased motor.will put intercooler and stuff back on this arvo and start up and suss it out.

[claire6]

Rear main seal by the looks...
Absolutely p##sing out..
Must just have beem old stuff up top but after a good degrease i started engine and within 10sec oil literally pouring from between sump and gearbox down onto rack..
Like there isnt a seal in there. .

[Jimbo]

Is your timing belt or clutch due yet?

[claire6]

Well guy i bought it off reckons leak was from turbo and leaked down into box ruining clutch plate so he told me he changed rear main seal and changed clutch but oil leak was still present thats why i bought car cheap..
Its done 180000kms so timing belt almost due.what is it i read on a plate that sshould be changed when doing rear main? Genuine seal only yes?

[Jimbo]

I wouldn't use anything else other than genuine. Was going to suggest, do your timing belt at the same time and anything else that needs attention. Good chance to make sure ALL oil lines and water hoses are in good condition, do as much as you can while the opportunity presents itself.

[claire6]

Indeed that's what i was thinking. .blessing in disguise. .while out make it right and do everything. .just got me querying he reckons he changed seal so why still leaking? Will keep updated.
cheers for the help.

[duncanm]

Well guy i bought it off reckons leak was from turbo and leaked down into box ruining clutch plate so he told me he changed rear main seal 

 

what's the bet he stuck it in too far? Its easy to do.  Rear main seal should only be pushed flush with the block.

 

If the engine's being pulled to do the seal, best to get everything else done at the same time - much easier.

 

Clutch + throwout bearing, timing belt, water pump, etc

[claire6]

Agreed..then i know all be sweet.
Still b good buy and ill know everything be spot on.

[El_Freddo]

While you've got the engine out I'd also be doing the crank and cam seals, cam cover plate seals and if the little cover plate in the bell housing is plastic replace it with the pressed metal unit (available from subaru).  I don't know when they crossed back to the metal plate after going with plastic for a while.

 

As previously mentioned, I too reckon the rear main seal has been pushed in too far - very easy to do for a noob on this.  My mate did it but I found it before we put the engine back in the car, cost us a seal but saved us a pot load of time!

Also a good time to replace any radiator and vacuum hoses too.

Cheers

Bennie