93 replies to this topic

[church]

While I'm not an ac tech, I believe they can just vac it down with it dead. It needs to be running to correctly regas it though.

 

Ahh I see, well let's hope so The engines already out haha

[church]

Plan for tomorrow is stripping the car of anything that is not needed for the conversion

 

That means

• Rear Diff
• Gearbox
• Prop Shaft
• CVs
• Front Subframe
• Exhaust

Anyone have any tips for these things?

 

and if anyone can change the name of this thread to Church's 2001 H6 EJ20T conversion Outback, it'll be greatly appreciated. 

 

 

[church]

Today I was able to take the passenger side suspension off the wheel hub but couldn't get the shaft off, Hammered it to no avail so I'm assuming it may be seized.

 

 

Then I had a brainwave which was more like: 'What the hell am I doing, I should have thought of this eariler!'

 

Correct me if I'm wrong but, I think (since the engine's out anyway), I can just drop the subframe with the gearbox connected to it down onto a jack and roll it out (with enough clearance) since I would suspect that I won't be using anything on that subframe anyway?

 

 

Was also able to take down the exhaust system, just full of rust and disappointment In my case.

 

Question:

 

This steering knuckle and column, do I replace both parts with WRX/STi ones or can I keep the outback one attached to the steering wheel  

 

But the plan is for me

• De-gas the AC
• take off the radiator supports
• drop the subframe and roll it out

 

Today I was able to take the passenger side suspension off the wheel hub but couldn't get the shaft off, Hammered it to no avail so I'm assuming it may be seized.

 

 

Then I had a brainwave which was more like: 'What the hell am I doing, I should have thought of this eariler!'

 

Correct me if I'm wrong but, I think (since the engine's out anyway), I can just drop the subframe with the gearbox connected to it down onto a jack and roll it out (with enough clearance) since I would suspect that I won't be using anything on that subframe anyway?

 

 

Was also able to take down the exhaust system, just full of rust and disappointment In my case.

 

Question:

 

This steering knuckle and column, do I replace both parts with WRX/STi ones or can I keep the outback one attached to the steering wheel  

 

But the plan is for me

• De-gas the AC
• take off the radiator supports
• drop the subframe and roll it out

 

[allpaw4]

I'd say keep the steering parts as per outback spec, rack can be changed, but leave the knuckle etc. The other items I would be keeping is the ac compressor and the power steering pump. With a bit of finiking around you can pull the compressor off its mount and pull it off to the side (although put something over the guard before you do this) and the same deal with the power steering pump. It will save you needing to degas and regas the ac, and also the really painful power steering system.

[church]

I'd say keep the steering parts as per outback spec, rack can be changed, but leave the knuckle etc. The other items I would be keeping is the ac compressor and the power steering pump. With a bit of finiking around you can pull the compressor off its mount and pull it off to the side (although put something over the guard before you do this) and the same deal with the power steering pump. It will save you needing to degas and regas the ac, and also the really painful power steering system.

 

I've already taken off the compressor and put it to the side, but apparently to get the loom off I'll need to remove the heater core and thats connected to the main hoses.

 

So I can just detach the steering rack, drop the subframe, put in the WRX subframe and attach the wrx rack to the knuckle?

[allpaw4]

Heater core is coolant hoses not AC stuff. Ac lines are the solid lines going through the firewall on the passenger side from memory, the heater core is more in the centre connected by hoses.

As for the rack, it should work doing it like that. Don't throw anything out until you've test run it beforehand to make sure it lines up.

[cowie165]

and if anyone can change the name of this thread to Church's 2001 H6 EJ20T conversion Outback, it'll be greatly appreciated. 

 

 

You have the power my friend! Go to your first post, Edit->Use Full Editor and then you can change the thread title.

 

That's how Nick does it each week :-P

 

HTH

Mark

[Liberty]

Barbbachello has permissions granted to his account for being a SubyClub Area Rep which is why he is able to edit topic titles. Regular members do not get that privilege whether you created the topic or not.

[Barbbachello]

Barbbachello has permissions granted to his account for being a SubyClub Area Rep which is why he is able to edit topic titles. Regular members do not get that privilege whether you created the topic or not.

I can only edit threads in the meets section. Everyone should be able to edit the titles of their own threads. As cowie said, edit the first post and click full editor at the bottom. Might need to be on a desktop though

[duncanm]

Check the knuckle - I recall that the fitting may be different -- I think Joel's conversion thread has something about this where he had to grind off a keyway in the WRX rack to make it fit the outback knuckle.

 

I degassed my AC and pulled it out -- but maybe the loom can be done without pulling the AC core out. You'll find out pretty soon, I guess

 

Check out Joel's thread -- he also just undid the subframe and rolled out the whole shebang like you are proposing.

[church]

Well.. I got engaged HAHA will have to pull back the build till I save enough for the wedding  BUT this really makes me want to finish the car for the future little ones and moving to a new house in the future  
 
Called Benny at Ichiban (alittle star struck too) so they'll have some halfcuts around the end of feb, we'll see how I'll go by then but working like hell to save enough
 
Finally also took off the passenger CV shaft. which by the way I had to take out with the wheel hub as that side of the shaft was seized in there (hammered it too hell and nothing) so took it out on the other side of the shaft and couldn't be easier

[church]

Update:

 

I've taken out the dash the only thing stopping me is the the airbag controller's torx bolts, I'm planning on just getting some vice grips and screwing them out that way and replace them with normal bolts. 

 

One step at a time with this build, its really looking less and less overwhelming as I start to understand how these pieces work

[duncanm]

I'm planning on just getting some vice grips and screwing them out that way 

 

*cough* don't tell anyone - but that's what I did.

[church]

Question: 

 

Should I just get an RX liberty/outback loom from a wreck instead of using the H6 loom? The reason why I'm saying this is because since I have to put it a different instrument cluster, the plugs for a H6 cluster arn't the same as a normal RX cluster right?

[Barbbachello]

Question: 

 

Should I just get an RX liberty/outback loom from a wreck instead of using the H6 loom? The reason why I'm saying this is because since I have to put it a different instrument cluster, the plugs for a H6 cluster arn't the same as a normal RX cluster right?

They are the same plugs physically. If you get a B4 cluster itll plug straight in

[church]

They are the same plugs physically. If you get a B4 cluster itll plug straight in

 

Ahh good Thanks Barbbachello, Means i can still use the H6 loom still

[Bumpty]

Well.. I got engaged HAHA will have to pull back the build till I save enough for the wedding

Seriously, that isn't a laughing matter.

[church]

Seriously, that isn't a laughing matter.

 

The engagment part or the pulling back the build part?

[church]

Update time!

 

Squeezed in an hour to work on the car

 

I pulled out the crash bar on the dash and man was it a pain...

 

I rounded of one of the torx bolts that held in the Airbag module, thinking that a normal torx bit would work... boy that was wrong. I got all the other bolts with the proper torx security bit ($10 for a whole set of bits from bunnings, craftright but I dont need it to last forever, does the job). So what I did was bend the plate holding onto the module back and it allowed enough clearance for the crash bar to come out.

 

Tried taking out the heater box to see if I could manage to free it without de gasing the A/C. Gave up. Looks like I defiantly need to de gas and remove the A/c Module with it.

 

Good reminder that if you have a car that doesn't cost must and you need to replace a heater core... just buy a new car HAHAHAH

 

 

also

.

(Sorry Barb couldn't resist)

 

Talked to a guy on the subaru forums who's done a Gen 3 WRX conversion and did the wiring himself and offered to help with the wiring yes money saved!

[church]

I got the a/c degassed and taken out the a/c box. The heater box is another story, can't seem to get it out anyone have any way of getting it out?