7 replies to this topic

[CodeBurn3r]

As you know, I'm a stickler for the OEM look, and having removed my Intake manifold for a new Red Paint and a few other little things..
I've decided to go Parallel Fuel Rail setup.

Now i have heard the horror stories, and been advised again as "it's not needed unless you have big power" etc etc but i'm not doing this for power..

its to tidy up the manifold and if the side effect is that i get more reliable fuel pressure to all cylinders then that is a bonus.

Now a quick background..

I am going to be using Stock Rails
i don't really want to go AN Fittings and fancy Braided lines.. i just want to keep using a stock FPR and keep the OEM look. but with some neat under manifold lines.
I have found that on the B4 manifold it uses a inline FPR as opposed to the one that runs off the back of the Drivers side rail with the Side Feed Rails.
so i sourced myself a second Passenger side rail, and am going to use that on the drivers side, and use Y joiners for the IN and for the return from the from the rails to the B4 FPR
My issue now is.. (and this is where i think the Parallel line mods get that bad rep) how do i Terminate (for lack of better terminology) the hard lines that will be cut to allow for Rubber hose to be connected so they cant pop off under pressure.

I have done some research and one method appears to be double flaring the line to replicate a Swage as per factory but i don't have a flare tool (ill go find one if i have to) Results in this 

the second option is to use AN Fittings with a standard flare on the end but this again is using AN fittings that just add to the cost and IMO make the look messy and over complicates the entire process as i will be using a AN fitting then
adapter back to a 3/8 Barb fitting, x3 this gets pricey for what should be a simple mod.

 

the final option is to use a ferrule from the AN fitting as kinda like a barb for the hard line so the rubber line doesn't slide off.. See here 

I'm looking for some guidance from you guys and to see what others have done.. 

 

 

-Ty

P.S. this is what im trying to replicate.. 

[duncanm]

50 bucks... just flare it

 

 http://www.superchea...Recommendations

[CodeBurn3r]

Obtained a flare tool and in using the thing I've unintentionally found a way to get near on perfect replica of factory lines bit more practice and I'll have a guide on how to do this.

[andrew_k]

Nice one, looking forward to seeing details.

[GT_Tony]

Obtained a flare tool and in using the thing I've unintentionally found a way to get near on perfect replica of factory lines bit more practice and I'll have a guide on how to do this.

 

please share your findings as im about to run new hard lines in my project, 

[CodeBurn3r]

Photos when I get home.. But basically you need a double flare tool.. You need to use the non recessed side of the clamp. On the 5/16 size pipe I used the 1/4 bit and had 2x the length of pipe sticking out. (About 8mm) slowly wind down the tool and stop just before it touches (about 2mm) bit of trial and error but you get a pretty good end.. I did about 15 practice goes and got the success rate down to 4/5 successful..

[CodeBurn3r]

https://drive.google...1lMeURpb3l2TWc/

[andrew_k]

If you still have the flaring tool, can I please mail you mine? ATM I'm looking at ~$60 for a tool I probably won't need again, which I don't have any practice using.