9 replies to this topic

[andrew_k]

Leaky rear main seal, went to replace it using the "internet advice" of tapping the new seal in using a dead blow mallet on the old seal, on top of the new seal.

Well… that went poorly. Tapped one side of the seal about 8mm beneath the edge of the block.

Got it out, but nicked the inner lip so thought I'd have another try as a practice run seeing as I duffed it so badly the first time. Next try the entire thing is 10mm into the block. Had to put screws into it to lever it back out.   

 

I've ordered 2 more, but I'm looking for experience on more reliable methods of seating it at the correct depth. I'm currently thinking a flat board across the entire new seal, then going at that with a large, light wooden mallet. This would ensure I can't seat it too deep as the board would bottom out.

 

li'l help? 

[duncanm]

I used a block of wood across the face-- similar to your flat board idea.

 

Tap gently.. a little at a time.

 

Had exactly the same problem - had to use screws to pull the first one out.

[andrew_k]

cheers mate, sounds like that's the ticket.

[Barbbachello]

It's a right of passage to butcher a rear main haha

[CRUISN]

Slow and steady wins the race.

[RX25SE]

Slow and steady wins the race.

 

Yep...

 

..and drive it in square.

[CodeBurn3r]

I just use something flat.. but do it slowly and evenly as Jase said..
Trick is not to tap it in past flush.. We've all done it..
but the biggest thing to remember is they go in flush with the flywheel face of the crank.. not recessed like Cam seals!

[andrew_k]

I followed this -up by doing the same with a rear diff axle seal. 

 

BLAARRGGGHhh.

[Matt]

If you take the bearing retainer off and are careful...you can tap it gently back into position from the inside

[andrew_k]

With my track record so far I'm not going to tempt fate. Second diff oil seal went it perfect, I'll just order another from partsouq. The luxury of having the car off the road and unregistered means able to wait for OS parts