Some of you may have already read my thread about installing cruise to my B4. If not, here's some background info:
http://www.subyclub....cruise-control/
Usual disclaimer, this is only a guide so I don't take responsibility if this somehow screws up your car. I can't guarantee the information is entirely correct, if anyone notices discrepancies let me know and I'll fix it up.
Anyway, I've put this guide together based on my experiences installing cruise control on my car, a 2002 Liberty B4 Rev D, but the guide could be applied to any RHD 3GEN Liberty, or any Subaru from that era if you can figure how to tap into speed sensor. It is a bit different on automatics so refer to the manual (https://www.dropbox....8_2003.pdf?dl=0).
The cruise system is fairly independent from the other systems in the car. Apart from getting your hands on the parts the most tricky bits are: finding which wires to tap into, positioning the stalk behind the steering wheel, and mounting the actuator. The rest is basic electrical wiring. It takes a bit of time, but if you know how to join 2 wires you should be able to do this.
What you need:
- Actuator motor (mine was electric, but some are vacuum based)
- Cruise control module
- 4 wire brake switch
- 2 wire clutch switch
- Cruise control main switch (button on the dash)
- Cruise control sub switch (stalk on the steering wheel)
You can probably get all these from a wreckers. Make sure you get the plugs with enough wire on them to join onto.
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Recommended:
- Spare throttle cable bracket (or make your own)
- Couple of screws to attach the sub switch with (self tapping, or drill a hole and use a nut)
- 8 core wire pack (otherwise, lots of differently coloured wires)
- Something to join wires, e.g. solder. (I was lazy and also used a number of male and female blades and some Narva Ezy Tap fittings.)
- Male & female blade fittings.
Tools:
- Star bits (to remove the steering wheel)
- Philips head Screw driver.
- Grinder.
- 10mm and 12mm spanners.
- Drill & drill bit large enough to a cut a hole for the sub switch.
- Pair of wire cutting pillars.
Mounting
Actuator
Find a position for the actuator first. On the B4 I recommend in front of the battery. There's not much room elsewhere and you can conveniently run the wires into the cavity above the wheel well back towards passenger side of the cabin. I wrapped the bracket on my actuator around the long bolt that holds the battery clamp down to snugly hold the actuator in place. See photo for example.
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Throttle cable
The throttle cable on mine reached to the spare cable slot on the throttle, but the distance between the end of the cable's outer casing and the end of the actual cable was too short to use with the existing bracket. Instead I used a spare bracket from another intake manifold that I was able to bolt on behind the existing one to give me some extra reach. If you do the same you will need to cut out a section of your new and existing brackets so that the two cables don't rub against either bracket. Please see the photos to see what I mean. Otherwise make up a custom bracket of your own.
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Main switch
This is the switch that turns the whole system on and off. You should have a spare button slot on your dash. I put mine on the right hand side near the fog light switch, just like where it is on my wife's car which comes stock with cruise control.
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Sub switch (steering wheel)
Depending on your steering wheel there isn't likely to be a pre-existing mounting position like the main switch has. I have a MOMO steering wheel with an air bag.
1. Remove the center of the wheel by undoing the star head screws on each side, then pull the center straight out. Some people suggest disconnecting the battery to avoid setting off the air bag.
2. Using another star type screw bit remove the two bolts on that hold the right side horn contacts on.
3. I suggest removing the stalk from the sub switch so you can work out where to position the switch inside the wheel. Look at my photo for a reference.
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4. You will need to cut out a section of the bottom horn contact. Only cut out as much as you need for a snug fit as this metal bracket is perfect to screw the switch into. See photo.
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5. Using your best judgement, cut a hole with an appropriately sized drill bit for the sub switch to poke out of. See photo, but keep in mind I used a drill bit much bigger than necessary.
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6. Put the switch back together and screw it into place. Check you can operate the switch in all 3 directions without hindrance.
7. Disconnect the black plug used for the horn and plug in the cruise switch instead.
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8. There is a stray wire hanging off the sub switch, attach this to the top horn contact/bracket. There should already be a wire coming off it going to the old plug, you can just join these.
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9. Put steering wheel back together.
Brake & Clutch Switches
You will already have a 2 wire brake switch. This needs to swapped out for a 4 wire one. On a manual you will also need to replace the clutch stopper with the 2 wire clutch switch. Fitting these is pretty obvious if you look at how the existing brake switch is bolted on above the brake pedal. I suggest pushing your driver's chair all the way back and folding it flat so that you can lay on your back to get under the dash. It's a bit tight and uncomfortable under there.
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Cruise module
The best place for this in my opinion is to the left of the glove compartment. You will obviously need to remove the glove compartment to do this, but I didn't get any good photos of the positioning because I couldn't be bothered to remove it again. I should have take some photos while I was installing it, sorry. Regardless, you will find a white electronics box of some kind up there below the left most air vent. I attached the module to the same mounting point.
This location is ideal because the wires for the actuator can come into the car through a little plastic plug near the floor, in front of the door, at bottom of the wheel well cavity. See the photo for an idea of where to find the plastic plug and stick your hand in and feel around, you'll find it. Most of the wiring for the switches come through behind the dash, stereo, glove box and over to the module. Lastly, one wire will come from the ECU to the cruise module which you will find beneath the carpet below the glove box. More about this later.
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Wiring
Throughout system there is a Yellow and Black wire that supplies power from the cruise module to all the other components while the system is activated. I have also attached a PDF with the general wiring diagram. My own notes below should hopefully help you make sense of the wiring diagram. You can ignore the Check Connector and Data Link parts of the diagram.
Main switch
Pin 1: Yellow Black (main power rail) - Attach to pin 2 clutch switch, pin 11 control module and pin 4 actuator.
Pin 2: Black White - Illumination circuit. (See notes).
Pin 3: Green Black - Switch power - Attach to the fuse box (see photo and notes below).
Pin 4: Purple - Illumination circuit. (See notes).
Pin 5: Orange Black - Attach to the pin 15 control module.
Pin 6: Blue Red - Attach to pin 1 control module.
This switch gets power from an unconnected pin on the big blue plug on the front of fuse box. When the switch is pressed it sends a pulse to the control module. I bent a female blade to fit into the plug since there wasn't any wires I could attach to. See photo.
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Two wires are for illumination when you have your lights on. These aren't necessary to make cruise work but you can easily just swap the pins out of the spare fog light plug into the cruise plug. I've got a photo of this, but ignore the blue Ezy Tap fittings attached.
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Sub switch
Lucky for me, and should be the same for you, the wiring is already there between the sub switch and below the dash, which saves us from figuring out how to get wires up the steering column and into the steering wheel. All but one wire ends at a black plug beneath the dash. The colours of these wires do not match the cruise module or the diagram. I used a multi-meter to figure out which was which. There is also a fourth wire, but only 3 are needed.
Green Red - Leave attached. It supplies power to the horn and now also your switch.
White - Attached to pin 9 control module (Green Red).
Black White - Attached to pin 10 control module (Green Black).
Black - Ignore
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Brake switch
Once you remove the old 2-wire switch you need reattach two of the wires on 4-wire to the old plug. Male blade fittings fit perfectly onto the pins of the existing plug. You will also need to Tee off one of these wires back to the control module.
Pin 1: Yellow Red - Attach to pin 1 clutch switch.
Pin 2: Blue Yellow - Attach to existing brake light wire/plug.
Pin 3: White Black - Attach to pin 20 control module and existing brake light wire/plug.
Pin 4: Yellow Blue - Attach to pin 16 control module.
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Clutch Switch
This is simpler with two wires. One wire comes off the main power rail of the cruise module. The other goes to the Brake switch. When you aren't pushing on the brake or clutch, power runs through both switches. Push on either the brake or clutch and the power is cut triggering the cruise to disengage.
Pin 1: Yellow Red - Attach to pin 1 brake switch.
Pin 2: Yellow Black (main power rail) - Attach to pin 1 main switch, pin 11 control module and pin 4 actuator.
Driver's Side to Passenger's Side
Most of the wires on the various switches go back to the control module. I used a 7 core wiring pack, but 8 is ideal since there are 8 wires going from the driver's side to passenger's. Run these from under the dash to behind the stereo, behind the glove box and over to the cruise module.
Cruise Actuator
There is 6 wires here. Only 5 actually need to back to the control module. 1 can be grounded directly to the body or battery.
Pin 1: Black Yellow - Attach to pin 7 control module.
Pin 2: Red Blue - Attach to pin 13 control module.
Pin 3: Orange - Attach to pin 13 control module.
Pin 4: Yellow Black (main power rail) - Attach to pin 1 main switch, pin 11 control module and pin 2 clutch switch.
Pin 5: Black Green - Attach to pin 5 control module.
Pin 6: Black - Attach to ground.
Engine Bay to Passenger's/Interior
1. Best approach is to remove the inner guard lining on the passenger's side wheel well.
2. Then remove the plastic strip running along the bottom door rail of the chassis.
3. You should have the glove box out by now.
4. Find the plastic plug I mentioned earlier, remove it.
5. Drill a hole large enough for your wires to fit through snugly.
6. Push these wires through the plug from the interior of the car into the wheel well cavity.
7. From outside the car pull out enough wire to reach to the hole in front of the battery into the engine bay.
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8. I suggest using zip ties inside the cavity to make sure the wires are safety fastened.
9. Attach the actuator plug as described above.
10. Attach the interior end of the wires to the control module plug.
Cruise Control Module
Pretty self explanatory with the notes above, but there is also a line coming from the fuse box and the ecu. See the notes below about those.
Pin 1: Blue Red - Attach to pin 6 main switch.
Pin 2: Yellow White - For VCD only which apparently the B4 doesn't have.
Pin 3: Black Red - For automatics only.
Pin 4: Not mentioned on the diagrams.
Pin 5: Black Green - Attach to pin 5 actuator.
Pin 6: Black - Attach to ground.
Pin 7: Black Yellow - Attach to pin 1 actuator.
Pin 8: Not mentioned on the diagrams.
Pin 9: Green Red - Attach to pin 3 sub switch (White).
Pin 10: Green Black - Attach to pin 2 sub switch (Black White).
Pin 11: Yellow Black (main power rail) - Attach to pin 1 main switch, pin 4 actuator and pin 2 clutch switch.
Pin 12: Green Black - Fuse box (see notes and photo below).
Pin 13: Red Blue - Attach to pin 2 actuator.
Pin 14: Orange - Attach to pin 3 actuator.
Pin 15: Orange Black - Attach to pin 5 main switch.
Pin 16: Yellow Green - Attach to pin 4 brake switch.
Pin 17: Light green Red - Ignore.
Pin 18: Green White - Ignore.
Pin 19: Green Black - Attach to ECU (see notes and photo).
Pin 20: White Black - Attach to pin 3 brake switch.
The Black Green wire attaches to a white plug on the left at the back of the fuse box. You need to undo the bolt on the left of the box and the unclip and pull the box forward to get at the cables. Refer to the photo to figure out the rest.
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The Green Black wire goes to the speed control sensor. The best way to tap into this is via the ECU loom. Remove the metal cover protecting the ECU. You can get to this beneath the carpet on passengers side glove box. The plug we are look for is 134 which is closest to the floor. You can find reference to this in the manual, or just use my photo as a guide if you have the same ECU as me. Tap into the wire on the top rail of the plug on the right hand corner.
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Grounding
There is only two grounds, one off the actuator and another of the control module. I used a spare wire in the 7 core pack to ground both to the battery directly, but any where on the body of the car will probably do.
Troubleshooting
Originally I got the ECU plug back to front and attached to wrong wire. My cruise would power up but nothing would happen when I tried to set the speed. If you have the same problem best to double check the speed sensor wire first. The other important thing to check would be the fuses. Take a look at the manual for more information on these.
Failing that ask here. There's a few things we can suggest checking. For example, the brake and clutch switches must provide uninterrupted power loop to the control module.
Right, I think that's about it. I haven't detailed every step of the process, but I'm sure you can figure out the simple stuff like removing lower dash cover below the steering wheel.
Credit to:
duncanm - Provided lots of information on the original thread.
Reevesy - for selling me the parts.
I'd like to hear if this helped you get cruise going so post back here. Good luck.
Attached Files
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cruise.pdf 27.44KB
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