7 replies to this topic

[Subaru_Bloke]

I was given a car hoist by my dad (long story) and have poured a slab and installed it. It is almost finished, except the electrical connections, which I am having a go at doing and then having an electrician check over to save some money and time.

The problem is that the schematic seems quite short on information for inputs pertaining to the hoist... I'm hoping someone here can provide the necessary information to finalise it ready for the electrician this week.

There is a cut off switch which I believe is SB3, that I can't find the correct numbers for.

The control solenoid on the pump needs to be connected also, but doesn't have numbers.

The neutral wire appears to need to be connected in a different location to the active?

There is 2 wires 07 and 09 that need to go from those numbers to the same numbers elsewhere in the circuit.

It looks like the motor is connected through the bottom breaker feed on the right.

And finally the locking solenoids need to be connected, but it isn't clear where they are connected either.

http://cloud.tapatal...218_094129.jpg?
http://cloud.tapatal...218_095213.jpg?

Hoist is a Torin Bigred 3.5t 2 Post lift model number QJY235D-E if that's of any use.

[duncanm]

Ok... a little bit of input, may or may not help from what I can see on the schematic..

 

Sorry if some of this sounds 'der fred' to you or is completely wrong - but I don't know what your level of understanding is.. and mine may not be much better (EE, but microelectronics, not power stuff).

 

I'm sure some real electricians will come along some time and tell me off.

 

The 'e-stop' (SB4) is your emergency stop. That I think is what you're referring to as the 'breaker'. It should be a big fork-off red button on the panel with a hit-to-off, turn-to-release type actuation. I think regs on these have recently changed so E-stops need a turn, plus a separate button push, but that may not apply to residential installations.

 

The motor connections are 3-phase with no neutral.

 

Despite the schematic, the transformer is multi-tap on the input and correctly wired for 230V. Taps off a pair of the 3-phase input.

 

 

The control solenoid on the pump needs to be connected also, but doesn't have numbers.

'KM' is the 3-pole motor switch ('contactor' translated from Chinglish, I think). The control for this is also marked 'KM' - wire 3. This is your 'control solenoid' which you mentioned. It runs off 24V AC so doesn't matter which way its connected.

 

 

KT looks like a timer to control how long the motor runs.  Pressing SB2 will start the timer, which then cuts out (tripping wire 4 to 1) after some fixed time.  The timer is obviously the thing with the dial.

 

 

There is 2 wires 07 and 09 that need to go from those numbers to the same numbers elsewhere in the circuit.

I'm not sure what your confusion with wires 7 and 9 is.  I guess you've figured by now that the little while labels match the schematic numbers with the circle with the line through it. 07 and 05 are the DC 24V feed to the solenoids.

 

 

I'm not entirely clear on the button functions.  Which is which?

[Subaru_Bloke]

Thanks heaps for the help Duncan. I'm a plumber on my good days with some ac experience and plenty of 12v experience, but have difficulty going from schematic to actual. Most is wired up, with mainly inputs still to be wired in. Namely the 'clunk bar' (overhead cut off switch) which I'm not sure how it is wired in to cut off the relay, but know it is sb3.

The ac motor is single phase 220v, and I believe i've wired it in correctly (neutral on numbered bar, active to the bottom left on large relay output) but I am getting no resistance across the neutral to active wires, which doesn't seem right to me? Wouldn't that be a short?

The locking solenoids are connected to the timer, as you said, and are relay activated, as I understand, output 011 and 07 should activate these for the given time? These also don't show resistance across the wires when checked, but I'm not sure if that's right or wrong?


The switches are up, down, and lock.

[Subaru_Bloke]

I apologise too. The schematic in my first post I believe is for 3 phase, the correct schematic was located inside the control box.

http://cloud.tapatal...218_134908.jpg?

[duncanm]

solenoids (Y, YA1 - YA4 ) should show a couple of hundred ohms -- say 200 to 300 ohm.

 

The KT in parallel with the solenoids is the activation/power for the timer (ie: start timer). Terminals 8 and 6, connected to wires 011 and 09 respectively, are 'normally open' - so should be shorted when the timer is running, I think.

 

I don't think the timer activates the locking solenoids.  I assume YA1-YA4 are the (electro mechanical?) locks.  They'll be 'normally locked', so that a loss of power, or the E-stop, will lock the lift for safety.  SB2 (down) runs the pump and opens the locks by activating/powering their solenoids.  The timer is used to run the motor and activate solenoid Y (maybe that's a hydraulic reversing valve?).

 

I'm guessing SB3 (lock) activates valve Y to drop the lift down to the nearest lock point and engage the mechanical locks so it doesn't rely on the hydraulics to hold it up.

 

You should get a fairly low (< 10ohm) resistance across active and neutral on the motor... but don't forget KM is normally open, so you need to measure on the motor side of this.

[Subaru_Bloke]

This is great duncan thank you, I'm not great at this stuff, so I'm glad you are!

Just to explain; this lift is a little different to others i've seen... it has 2 solenoid activated wedge locks. There is no other mechanical locks.

I thought the electromagnetic locks would be locked on a timer to allow the carriage to pass by, but your explanation makes sense too. Only thing is 07 and 011 I'm fairly sure are outputs from the timer? The locks came with a pre wired tail and plugs, that also have on the end 07 and 011 on it, which makes me think they're timer controlled on operation of the lift?

There is an overhead micro switch which I can't figure out is no or nc, and where it would connect to stop the system as well.

I checked resistance on the motor and it's very low across the active and neutral connections (0.5 ohm from memory) without any connection. This seems strange as the coil shouldn't be making full contact between the poles? There are 3 connections inside the pump, I have neutral on 1 and active on 3, which is how the test wire from the factory was connected in.

The 07 and 09 connections have a dual pair wire a metre long with 07 and 09 on both ends. I was trying to work out where they connect, but am thinking if Y is the solenoid, and is 07 and 09 on ether side of it, that this should operate that valve once i've cut the ends and soldered them to the solenoid and connected to the bar. Since it's dc, it shouldn't matter which way I do that right?

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[duncanm]

- lift limit switch is NC - per schematic, its in series with the up button between 01/03. Stops (opens switch) when limit is hit. (** well, unless there's a switch at the limit which controls this in a relay like fashion and its not on the schematic)

 

- 0.5ohm on motor winding is ok - its inductive, so sees a high effective resistance to AC.

 

- 07 and 011 look like they're wired across the solenoids and the power for the timer. The timer 'output' (which is two switches, one NO the other NC) is across wires 011/09 and wires KT/03

 

- Y may not matter which way you connect it - but its worth checking its operation.

[Subaru_Bloke]

Awesome. I'll check this out tonight when I get home. Thanks heaps for the help duncan

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