32 replies to this topic

[crjohnson]

No 6 speed swap yet but it will be getting a slight radiator upgrade (koyo A2465 gen2 outback ez30, 25mm thick) as the exisiting is an easy 180km old by the look of it.

 

Fitting the gen4 fans on looks pretty simple so far. The drivers side fan has 1 screw that lines up perfect (the photo makes it look like its on an angle but is actually straight), then just need a small bracket (must be thin, I'll try 1.6mm steel and keep an eye on it for fatigue) with holes 20mm offset to bolt up. 

 

The passenger side fan can be shifted slightly to make 1 screw fit but it puts the fan on a bit of an angle and would need the shroud trimmed slightly so it doesn't rub on the end tank. I'm actually going to go with this and make 1 small bracket to mount the other screw ( fyi: the adapter bracket needs to be 5mm thick to get the heights correct, the other screw needs a 5mm spacer and longer M6 screws).

Other than that the nexus is in a running, works pretty good so far, hoping to get an android auto app working so I can plug the phone in. Plus make a little panel to fill the gap or even find an AV panel to suit. 

 

[allpaw4]

Is it worth acquiring the gen2 outback fan assembly and swapping the plugs over? Seems a little more simple compared to manufacturing bracketry, thats all.

Cheers,
Ben

[crjohnson]

I thought about that but havent seen any 6cyl gen2's at the wreckers for ages. Plus I've pretty much finished trial fitting it in the sedan i still have.
These radiators are slightly wider and taller so i trimmed some rubber off the bottom of the top mount grommets, tweaked the mounts slightly in the vice and thats about it.
Fyi the gen2 fans are 120w vs 160w each for the gen4 libs.

[Barbbachello]

FYI Outbacks follow their Liberty chassis generations. They are a trim level not a separate model. Until gen 6 or whatever it is but no one cares about them

[crjohnson]

Pics to follow but its all starting, engine and auto box should be out tomorrow.

 

- 6mt axles all rebuilt, new boots and grease - Has anyone here ever done this and actually got 130+gr of grease in a CV? Its a sh1tload of grease.. 

- new reverse and neutral swtiches in the 6mt

- new exedy HD clutch ready to go

- new axle and tailshaft seals in the box, new clutch bearing snouth thing

- new seals in the diff

- machined up some new shifter knuckle bushings, plus have a whiteline kit to install

- gen3 outback h6 radiator ready to go as well as a EJ thermostat (91C full open vs 95 for the EZ)

- turbo oil return welded into the rocker cover (fingers crossed the turbo actually happens in the near future!)

 

To do:

- install 6mt engine and gearbox, axles, rear diff

- remove interior stuff and TCU, replace ecu, biu, cluster and key barrel with units from the 6mt car

- remove the auto brake pedal and install the manual version plus the clutch pedal

- wiring - clutch, inhibitor bypass, neutral and reverse switch

- clutch master cylinder

- swap the ABS units, bleed brakes

 

 

Wishing I'd had the 6mt out sooner so I had time to send the the center diff of to corgiewerx! 

[twinturbosubaru]

So great to see a new conversion happening, and great reading about your progress.

Keep up the great work.

 

You might want to do the pedal conversion and stuff like that before the engine goes back in ?

Assuming your list is in order :-) that's my OCD kicking in LOL

 

Regards

Paul

[crjohnson]

Haha cheers mate. Yea last thing to go in will be the engineabd rear diff. Got the brake pedal swapped, just going to do some wiring before the clutch pedal goes in.

Hopefully have some more updates this weekend.

[crjohnson]

Got some progress over the last few days:

- gearbox is in and adapter plate made, bit hard to see in the photo as I painted it black. If the adapter plate turns out all good, I've got the dimensions and could potentially get some laser-cut for anyone else would wants to do this conversion.

- wiring mods done - will get some photos of what I did soon.  

- starter motor rebuilt (still waiting on the new brush assembly) - Thank you to Corgiwerx for the heads up on the brushes! Mine were exactly like they described. 

- new clutch in, engine installed, 

- shifter with new bushes installed, feels mint! 

- clutch pedal installed - need to check out bleeding it.

- ABS unit swapped over - need to bleed

- then everything plugged in (and took out the fuel pump fuse) to let me turn the ignition on and see what would happen! 

 

So far so good! Everything worked, dash still has the flashing cruise light, a wheel fell off at the auction place so I think this caused an ABS fault code. Other thing is the nexus 7 and BTSSM would not connect, no idea why yet. 

 

One interesting thing, the central locking is still controlled by the original key, not the sedan's key. I thought this would have all been controlled and linked with the BIU, but it looks as though its all separate. I should be right to swap whatever parts into the wagon key. 

 

[crjohnson]

Well guys it finally started! I was starting to get nervous as it was doing some weird things. My first stuff up was not plugging the engine into the main loom properly, was very annoyed at myself for that one.. 

 

Next the engine still wouldn't start and came up with fault codes: P0118 (temp sensor), P0123 (throttle position sensor), P0328 (knock sensor 1), P0333 (knock sensor 1) - all these were " circuit HIGH" faults. 

 

I thought I was in trouble as it all pointed to a short circuit somewhere and these sensors all share a common ground or shield wire. But then I wondered more about what mods I had done that could have caused a short circuit and the one thing that kept coming back was this auto-manual identification wire on C15. You ground this for a manual, leave open for an auto. I saw on the wiring diagrams that it should connect to C14 and another wire somewhere, so I stripped C14, spliced it in. This was wrong! 

 

I disconnected (automatic mode) C15, the engine started! BUT then I grounded it (manual mode) and the engine still started which is good but confusing... Anyway, I will be grounding this wire to the chassis from now on. 

 

I still have some fault codes carried over from the doner car. I'm not sure how to (if its even possible without a proper SSM) clear these. C0072 (yaw rate sensor), C0071 (steering angle sensor), C0047(CAN comunication). I'm guessing the first 2 are from when the passenger front wheel fell off at the auction yard, someone didn't bolt a wheel on properly! 

 

Next I have to finish bolting the exhaust on, bleed the brakes, fill rear diff with oil and go find somewhere to lock the brakes and get the ABS working. Apparently this is a good way of bleeding the ABS unit, but then you have to re-bleed the brakes again. I hope the ABS will actually work with these fault codes going on, we'll see! 

[allpaw4]

I'd be surprised if the ABS didn't work, as it doesn't rely on those sensor inputs to work. If the ABS light is off, it should be fine.

Good to see it lives!

Cheers,
Ben

[El_Freddo]

Sounds epic SRJ!

Always good when it starts in the end.

Cheers

Bennie

[crjohnson]

Hey guys, well all the fault codes are gone (thanks to the nexus 7 and BTSSM), cruise control works and no engine lights or anything. I didn't know at the time that BTSSM could clear codes! 

 

Here are my notes on the wiring:

 

- get an accurate copy of the FSM for your car! 

 

- Bypass the inhibitor relay shown in ST(06)-01. I made small wire approx. 50mm long with 2 male, flat blade terminals on each end. Plugged it into poles 3 and 4. Leave the other terminals in the relay plug empty. Cover with electrical tape. The relay is located up behind the fuse box to the right of the steering wheel.

 

- I ran 2 x 2core wires from the gearbox, through the firewall and to the ecu (neutral safety switch) and to the back-up light relay.

 

- Wire in the back-up/reverse light as per BACK/L(R )-01 in the FSM. The reverse wires only need 2 male flat blade terminals and to be plugged into poles 3 and 4 on the relay plug. Leave the other terminals in the relay plug empty. Cover with electrical tape

 

- Wire in the neutral safety switch to C31 on the ECU (see page E/G(RH6)-12 in FSM). I cut the existing C31 wire, joined the NSS to the ECU side of that wire, then joined the other NSS wire to the B122 joint connector. I spliced into 1 wire in that joint connector and joined the NSS wire to that. The other end of the C31 wire that you cut just gets taped up. 

 

- Wire in the clutch as per E/G(RH6)-05. I ran a 2 core wire from the clutch pedal/switch across to the ECU, then cut the C25 wire (which exists in the auto loom), joined clutch wires to that.

 

-  Add a pin and wire to C15 on the ECU and ground this to the chassis. This is the auto/manual ID wire for the ECU. The diagrams I had showed this joining with C14 which I originally did but this caused a bunch of "circuit high" faults which all pointed to a short circuit somewhere. Ground this to the chassis or ECU mounts as I did. 

 

- Remove the PV-IGN relay, I don't really know what this does, looks like some sort of power supply to the TCM. 

 

Plug in your BUI, cluster, ECU, swap your ABS unit and Key barrel assembly for the manual version. To remove the key barrel, use a sharp cold-chisel and gently hammer the security bolts off (in clockwise direction), replace with M8 screws. Unplug the TCM (hide those plugs somewhere up in the dash), tape up the 2 x auto trans plugs in the engine bay (you only need the oxy sensors plugs). Off you go! 

 

I have no idea if this will work for 2.5T - 5eat cars but I'd be surprised if it didnt. 

 

I also used a 21200AA072 thermostat, these open and are fully open 4degrees lower than the standard h6 thermostat. I can definitely see lower temps on the BTSSM gauges. See the link below for more info:

 

https://legacygt.com...postcount=14760

[crjohnson]

Slight update, got my exhaust headers installed over the weekend. Hardly given it the boot yet so no idea if they make a difference in how it goes (not that I really expect it). These manifolds (stock cats and mid section), plus the 2015 wrx STI rear mufflers and a 3" pipe from the filter box outlet to the throttle body seem to make some nice sound! Really deep 'boooaarrr' sound when it gets going, without being raspy and loud! I'll try get a video soon. 

 

 

Found a front outer cv boot clamp that's come off at some stage so need to fix that, then maybe look at some new a/f sensors or other general stuff. Have a 20mm rear sway bar (plus mount brackets) in the works too, just to finish bend it and maybe get it heat treated!