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Identifying a modified turbo


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#1 El_Freddo

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Posted 29 October 2022 - 09:18 PM

Gday all,

I just picked up an EJ20G for my RS saga project that came with a turbo that has the best feel in the shaft rotation I reckon Ive ever experienced.

Its also had the details of the turbo shaved off, possibly when/if theyve machined the snout down to fit the 90° elbow off the front of it. This elbow piece is a plastic bolt on item, something Ive not seen before either and the waste gate actuator arm is different to a stock VF12/TD04/TD05 units that have a bend in them.

Is there any method to working out what I have with this turbo without taking it to a shop for them to inspect?
Is there any easy way to decipher whether its a sleeve bearing (I forget the correct term) or ball bearing core?

Any assistance on this is appreciated! Ill dig up a pic during the week as I failed to get one today before I wrapped it up from the weather.

Regards

Bennie
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#2 allpaw4

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Posted 29 October 2022 - 09:33 PM

Might be a long shot, but there is a product around that you can put on the where the name plate usually resides that will pickup the pressure from the stamps and show the text where it has been removed. I'm pretty sure the turbo data is stamped on and is not part of the casting. Depends how far back they've taken the machining though.

Cheers,
Ben
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#3 Barbbachello

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Posted 02 November 2022 - 09:19 AM

Pictures are worth a million words with something like this.

Ill be able to tell you what manufacturer it is but without removing housings and measuring wheels thats about as good as itll get


tIeW8DE.png


#4 El_Freddo

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Posted 03 November 2022 - 06:17 PM

I know its an IHI - youll see why below. Only other obvious clue is RHB52. Anyway, pic time!

cQqUnW.jpg

t7kpCm.jpg

S5Tee8.jpg

Hopefully this could lead to some idea of what Im looking at.

Cheers

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#5 allpaw4

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Posted 03 November 2022 - 08:11 PM

Pics of the exhaust turbine setup will probably help as well Bennie, as the impellor layout can help identify. Inlet impellor is 5+5 design, and the bearing identifier shown will help. Unfortunately that looks like the identifier is cast, so the fancy stuff I was thinking of won't work...

Edit, found a post scooby.net, RHB52 is likely a VF8
MY00 Red RX, a nice daily that was sold off once the B4 became reliable...
MY02 Blue B4, aka 'The Project' - v8 Spec C engine package and assorted other 'goodies' - Sold, then bought back for parts. Stripped and crushed.
MY03 Blue RX, the newer old daily, pretty well more B4 than RX now... In the process of being converted to the track toy... Watch this space!
MY02 Silver Wagon, H6 conversion, full blue/black leather and almost full black interior to go with it.
MY03 White/Silver H6 Outback, donor car for silver waghoon.
MY97 Silver RX, acquired to become track car, but plans changed. To be stripped and scrapped in time.

#6 Barbbachello

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Posted 03 November 2022 - 08:33 PM

Ohh yeah it's just an old school VF. Afaik only the TD04 and TD05 had the cast snout. The VF8 and 10 had the bolt on

tIeW8DE.png


#7 El_Freddo

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Posted 03 November 2022 - 10:10 PM

That makes sense about it being a VF8 or VF10 - it’s from a Gen1 Legacy EJ20G mates to an auto, so it got the smaller turbo.

In the grand scheme of things this is good for what exactly other than a paperweight? Is this an early equivalent to the TF035 from the SF GT foz?

Cheers

Bennie
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#8 Barbbachello

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Posted 04 November 2022 - 06:27 AM

Perfectly adequate for a stock car if that's what you're after. One thing to keep in mind is the VFs have different wastegate pressure to the TDs so you can run into issues running a VF on a TD ecu and vice versa. Standalone boost controller of sorts will fix it

tIeW8DE.png


#9 El_Freddo

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Posted 05 November 2022 - 07:52 AM

That’s good info Barbs, I really appreciate it! The RS that’s been too long in the “build/get it going” process had a TD05 and a completely shot engine, nothing like I’d seen before - zero bearing on cylinder two with the piston slapping the head and cylinder 1 had broken ring lands that resulted in a melted out section on the piston.

Digging in further the ECU had a VOS chip. Adrian still messes with these and I gave him some details of the chip. He said it was the wrong setup for the turbo and easily explains why the engine is in the condition I found it in. Apparently it was chipped for the wrong wastegate which would’ve created massive boost spike.

These are all the finer details I need to work out about the turbo game, I’m sure I’ll have more questions later down the track - for now I reckon this turbo will go one once the engine is ready to go it. A standard ECU is back in there atm, so a VF turbo would be best by the sounds of it since the stock unit for an Australian delivered RS was the VF12.

Cheers

Bennie
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#10 Barbbachello

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Posted 05 November 2022 - 09:03 AM

There isnt a whole lot to it tbh and afaik gen 1s are the only turbo cars with that setup. Everything since has used the same wastegate pressure. Standard ecu will be plenty for what youre after. You can just run wastegate pressure while you get it sorted. Is the OG TD05 no good? Thatd be my pick for a turbo


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#11 El_Freddo

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Posted 05 November 2022 - 09:50 PM

The TD05 seems all good but one or two of the fins on the intake compressor wheel bent/chipped. The core is good, it’s just this one wheel that’s the issue.

I’ve also picked up two TD04 turbos. From memory one has the snout and the other doesn’t. One of them has a flogged waste gate shaft, I think that’s the one with the snout that I was planning on using in the RS as I’m not going for a screamer, more of a social squirt as such. I don’t have the original VF, but the one above will hopefully be a good start to begin with in this project.

Cheers

Bennie
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