16 replies to this topic

[Jock]

Long story short, bottom radiator hose blows off driving home Friday night. Get car towed home, put hose back on, sweet. Fill up coolant with front jacked up as per usual, go for a 5 minute drive, come back and coolant is spitting out the plastic overflow. Tried to fill up coolant again after it cooled down a bit, with front jacked up and coolant just keeps spilling from the header tank when it warms up. Also getting Code 21 - water temp sensor. I'll try a new thermostat. Are all water temp sensors the same? For a BG5 Legacy GT.

[Alex]

once you get it sorted John, take it to a good mechanic or a radiator shop, and ask for a TK test. That'll confirm gases in the cooling system. if there is, gasket is your problem. I know of a cheap GT leggy engine too if that's the case! Where's Jimmah?

[Dylan]

Johnno gimme a call or msg me this week, let me know when you're around and we'll meet up. You also have the option of taking it to Toy's but give me a call / sms first and we'll sort something out. Dylan

[jOhn-e]

Johnno gimme a call or msg me this week, let me know when you're around and we'll meet up.

You also have the option of taking it to Toy's but give me a call / sms first and we'll sort something out.

Dylan

start the car and let it warm without the header tank cap on.

this will get rid of the air in the cooling system, is its air that is causing your problems.

otherwise yes i will take it to toys hahaha

how is the gear box going all good?

[Jock]

Yeah gearbox all good, feels good to be able to use 2nd and 5th again. Now when the car warms up, with the header tank open, coolant's jumping out.

[Alex]

TK test will confirm diagnosis!

[alexGT]

stick the cap back on once it has reached operating temperature. let it cool down again properly then top it up then take it for another drive.

[RX25SE]

As alexxx said, stick the cap on once it warms up. Sometimes the coolant will boil when its not under pressure, perhaps this is why the coolant is jumping out. If your happy youve bled out all the air and the coolant level has dropped after its cooled, then maybe its headgasket time. A TeeKay test (as Alex mentioned)is a good place to start but it wont always show a small leak. You may find the coolant sensor code is nothing more than the sensor going 'out of range' rather than a faulty sensor. How hot did it get on the dash gauge? Did the gauge rise then fall for no reason? Was there a loss of power/running rough? Are the cooling fans on when the coolant jumps out? Cheers J

[Jock]

On Friday night, the temp needle did get close to the H, smoke came out of the bonnet. Turned into some back roads to get more airflow, temp needle went back down around the middle. Car then conked out (different electrical issue), and when I got her towed I noticed a pool of liquid on the road where the passenger front side of the bay was, guessing coolant now. Driving it yesterday, before I noticed the overflow bubbling, the high setting didn't get to 16psi as it normally does. Did feel a bit sluggish, not rough, thermos are mostly on. Just did what you fellas suggested, topped up header tank to while waiting for the car to warm up then went for another 5 min drive. Temp is 13 deg on the climate, taking it pretty easy, needle gets to halfway pretty quick (normally stays about a quarter). Bottom radiator hose is still cold, top is fairly warm, overflow has filled up almost to the top - it was under halfway before the drive. Let it cool down, then topped up the header tank again and took it for a more spirited drive. Overflow now spilling over and onto the front bar. Bottom radiator hose still cold - is this normal? Will book it in for a TK test and test out the radiator.

[RX25SE]

Mmmmmmmm.........me thinks head gasket, sorry. TeeKay test next. If it is a head gasket, I would strongly recommend having the radiator removed and cleaned out buy a radiator shop, but you may find that for a few more dollars you could get a new one. Also the plastic tank radiators have a habit of snapping off the hose fittings when they get a bit old. FYI The temp sender for the gauge (also sensor for ECU) only really works when its immersed in coolant. Its not uncommon for the gauge to rise as the engine overheats due to loosing coolant, then fall because there is no longer enough coolant left for the gauge to read accurately so the the engine continues to overheat even though the temp gauge is falling. Im not trying to scare you but Ive seen a few engines seriously overheated due to drivers thinking the engine is cooling down when in fact they're cooking it. Best of luck with it. Cheers J

[alexGT]

On Friday night, the temp needle did get close to the H, smoke came out of the bonnet. Turned into some back roads to get more airflow, temp needle went back down around the middle. Car then conked out (different electrical issue), and when I got her towed I noticed a pool of liquid on the road where the passenger front side of the bay was, guessing coolant now.

Driving it yesterday, before I noticed the overflow bubbling, the high setting didn't get to 16psi as it normally does. Did feel a bit sluggish, not rough, thermos are mostly on.

Just did what you fellas suggested, topped up header tank to while waiting for the car to warm up then went for another 5 min drive. Temp is 13 deg on the climate, taking it pretty easy, needle gets to halfway pretty quick (normally stays about a quarter). Bottom radiator hose is still cold, top is fairly warm, overflow has filled up almost to the top - it was under halfway before the drive.

Let it cool down, then topped up the header tank again and took it for a more spirited drive. Overflow now spilling over and onto the front bar. Bottom radiator hose still cold - is this normal? Will book it in for a TK test and test out the radiator.

sounds like your thermostat is stuck closed!!!

take off the bottom radiator hose and remove the housing and pull it out and replace it. genuine subaru ones are around $20.

[Jock]

Pretty much confirmed the HG is gone at the Hooters meet. Driving later in the night, car decides to spill all its coolant from a new leak around the passenger side rear section. Limped it to Toys, contemplating options. 1. Rebuild current motor with new gaskets etc. 2. Called up Ichiban, $995 for 380cc TT motor like mine, $1395 for 440cc (GTB?), new gaskets etc. Would the GTB motor fit up to my car, or differrent wiring involved? 3. Single. Ichi also have a 98 WRX motor for $1695.

[Dylan]

My vote is on the EJ20R. You can always single it from there, and it's a better engine (in theory) than the WRX one as it's pretty much spot on with a v3 STi. Everything will be the same, you may just need a GTB ECU though (injectors have changed).

[Alex]

K.I.S.S theory here. Throw another motor in there. Whatever's cheapest. Dylan - negatory. Wiring is all different. Sensors are all different.

[twinturbosubaru]

Yep, too many wiring and sensor changes needed, you would need the ECU and loom as well. It wouldn't be hard to do though as it's not all that different I don't think, but would need to be done nonetheless. I would just go with the straight replacement, change it over yourself in a day or 2, much easier and cheaper, and cheap=good right now hey Jock ! In saying that though, how much is the quote to do gaskets ? Regards Paul

[Jock]

Yes cheap would be good. Waiting on Toy's call. How's the weather and cars in QLD Alex?

[Jock]

Bringing this back up, quote to do the HG would be around 3K. Machining heads and block, new gaskets and seals all round. Then VF26/27 and exhaust all done. But single turbo keeps popping back in my head....