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Liberty rear main seal


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#1 Damien

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Posted 14 November 2010 - 06:29 AM

So the time has come i have to replace the rear main seal on my liberty, just wondering so tips i have seen on other forums that some pull the engine out to replace it or could i just drop or could i just drop the AUTO box and what is this seperator plate that they talk about? i will be doing it a home on car stands and jacks and when i was a third year apprentice mechanic i had done plenty of rear main seals but never on a suby. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks Damien

#2 Jovi

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Posted 14 November 2010 - 11:40 AM

I've taken engines out and gearbox's out of gen3's and fozza's but on jack and stands its a bitch doing either one... Some say its easier to pull the engine out then a gear box and some say its the other way around, but if i was doing it at home on stands id take the box out less things to undo...

I hope that help's you out...
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#3 Evil_VZ-T

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Posted 14 November 2010 - 11:48 AM

If your doing it on the ground, Pull the engine out, 6x14mm bolts for the gearbox/starter, 2x 14mm for the engine mounts, Fuel lines, wiring harness plug, airbox, radiator, A/c pump and P/s and alternator. undo the 6x14mm for the exhaust too and she is out. Just remember to undo the flex plate bolts first through the inspection plate up top and that the torque converter doesnt fall out and leak fluid everywhere.

all you need is an engine crane... should take you 1.5 hours max

Have fun:)

PS: if the engine has not been out before it will be very tight on the dowels. spray with rost off or WD40 before you start.


If you have a hoist, the transmission can be out in 40-60mins. But they are a heavy bit of gear. so doing that on the ground is shit house
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#4 acres

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Posted 14 November 2010 - 12:38 PM

If your doing it on the ground, Pull the engine out, 6x14mm bolts for the gearbox/starter, 2x 14mm for the engine mounts, Fuel lines, wiring harness plug, airbox, radiator, A/c pump and P/s and alternator. undo the 6x14mm for the exhaust too and she is out. Just remember to undo the flex plate bolts first through the inspection plate up top and that the torque converter doesnt fall out and leak fluid everywhere.

all you need is an engine crane... should take you 1.5 hours max

Have fun:)

PS: if the engine has not been out before it will be very tight on the dowels. spray with rost off or WD40 before you start.


If you have a hoist, the transmission can be out in 40-60mins. But they are a heavy bit of gear. so doing that on the ground is shit house


What he said. Should probably get another rubber plug for the inspection plate up too. They always seem to go hard and break when removing them.

#5 Damien

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Posted 14 November 2010 - 12:50 PM

thanks for the info, ive done other cars at home on the ground just taking the box out but that was easier then this sounds might have to what i do about getting a engine hoist or i might just drop the box if im keen lol

thanks for the info, ive done other cars at home on the ground just taking the box out but that was easier then this sounds might have to what i do about getting a engine hoist or i might just drop the box if im keen lol

#6 Dylan

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Posted 14 November 2010 - 01:18 PM

good luck mate, i am about to pull the box out of mine today, on stands and on the ground. Trolley jack under it makes it easy.

Just a few more beers and i'm ready to go!

#7 Damien

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Posted 14 November 2010 - 01:50 PM

haha no thing a few beers wont fix, let me know how you go if theres a few things i might run into that could be a problem, only thing im not liking is mine being a AUTO which i hate but had to get it for the gf to drive aswell might have to go manual conversion soon lol

#8 Soop

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Posted 14 November 2010 - 02:07 PM

Inox works better then WD40 too. (might as well use turps if you're going to use WD40 IMO)
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#9 Dylan

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Posted 14 November 2010 - 02:09 PM

yep, inox is great stuff. Spray it on, leave it for a bit and tap with a hammer if it still doesn't budge

#10 Soop

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Posted 14 November 2010 - 03:32 PM

You can also get inox with lanoline oil in it as well. I've coated an engine block in it and had it sitting around for 3 months and have no signs of rust yet.
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#11 acres

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Posted 14 November 2010 - 05:42 PM

Where to get said inox? Is it a mainstream product that I could get at the hardware/auto store, I haven't heard of it before.
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#12 CodeBurn3r

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Posted 14 November 2010 - 06:56 PM

+1 for the Engine removal idea, Its really not that hard, i have removed gen 2 engines quite a few times at home with a hoist and jack to hold the box..

should take no longer than 1 - 2 hours your first time.. after you have done it about 3 times its a 30 min job
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