17 replies to this topic

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This is what the standard B4 radiator looks like, according to some radiator site:






What can be a suitable replacement?



This is the most similar one I have found on eBay so far:

http://cgi.ebay.com....1#ht_1292wt_906






Who thinks it will fit? Any other links or tips are welcome.

[Soop]

Looks the same to me...

[B4TT]

Looks like it would fit, but yeah I do think you should hit up some radiator shops first, if the core is ok they might be able to replace the header tank for you which would be cheaper than buying a new radiator..... but yeah def check one out first

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Cheers guys.

Looks like it would fit, but yeah I do think you should hit up some radiator shops first, if the core is ok they might be able to replace the header tank for you which would be cheaper than buying a new radiator..... but yeah def check one out first

I checked with a radiator specialist in town. To replace my top plastic tank alone was 240, but that's with me removing/refitting the radiator myself.

This is 225, plus a thicker core. (should be better cooling? Hopefully) As long as it fits, it should be a good option. And by the photos alone it looks like it is definitely the same.





Has anyone on here put any WRX radiator into a Gen 3?

[Soop]

Plastic end tanks are shit.
Had them separate from the core in my SS.

Just make sure the alloy tank's don't earth. Otherwise you'll be back again doing the same job in 6 months.

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Plastic end tanks are shit.
Had them separate from the core in my SS.

That looks like a shit of a job. So many little aluminium tabs, and knowing me I would probably break a few.

Just make sure the alloy tank's don't earth. Otherwise you'll be back again doing the same job in 6 months.

What do you mean by this? Make sure it has rubber gaskets between the radiator and the body? or something like that.

[Soop]

Yerp, otherwise electrolysis will kill the radiator.

I mean with my SS, the end tank came away from the core due to heat. I just replaced with a PWR item. Ditto for the Subi.

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Cheers mate.

[XXB4XX]

I don't like the whole plastic end tanks business.. if you're replacing it, make sure it's a good quality all metal radiator..

Ford Falcons are notorious for bursting off the plastic end tanks.

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if you're replacing it, make sure it's a good quality all metal radiator..

I don't know about this eBay one being 'good' quality.

But it 'should' be better than the original with the plastic bits.

[Soop]

I don't like the whole plastic end tanks business.. if you're replacing it, make sure it's a good quality all metal radiator..

Ford Falcons are notorious for bursting off the plastic end tanks.

Anything with plastic end tanks will shit its self eventually.

[CodeBurn3r]

Would the real question not be .. why is the tank blowing/bursting?
wouldn't that mean the Rad cap is faulty? my radiator has survived plenty of pressure from when i did the head gasket and it's got plastic tanks.
so has plenty of others i worked on now.

Tom, are you sure you cant get it fixed for cheaper?
i would ring around and just give the most basic details such as....

"how you goin' mate, got a Subaru radiator here with a hairline crack in the top tank. whats your going rate on a repair on the tank and a replacement tank, cash"
"and do how fast is your turnaround, i'll send one of the apprentices around with it as soon as you're ready."

usually they will just quote trade.
i do it all the time with parts at Bursons and stuff.. call up: mate, got a 98 liberty in the shop, need a XXyyZZ. ok cool i'll send one of the young blokes around shortly.
i rock up and say I'm here to pick up a XXyyZZ my boss called before, he said to put xname on the receipt.

watch the price drop compared to your standard walk in price.

$200+ seems steep for a repair, my local radiator place was going to charge $220 for a clean, and tank replacement on my mates Lib

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Would the real question not be .. why is the tank blowing/bursting?
wouldn't that mean the Rad cap is faulty? my radiator has survived plenty of pressure from when i did the head gasket and it's got plastic tanks.
so has plenty of others i worked on now.

It seems to be a common fault. According to google + another bloke at work.
It's bound to happen with 10 year old plastic that gets to around 100+ degrees each day.

$200+ seems steep for a repair, my local radiator place was going to charge $220 for a clean, and tank replacement on my mates Lib

240 was for a brand new plastic top tank + fitting to the radiator + full clean + test

[Soop]

Yep, it just lets go after heating up and cooling down time and time again.

[CodeBurn3r]

STRAY CURRENT & CHEMICAL CORROSION PREVENTION
Stray current has been a concern within the radiator industry since the introduction of aluminium radiators. This form of corrosion can perforate an aluminium radiator within weeks. Stray current in the coolant is usually caused as a result of the earth path for some components being altered, a faulty earth strap or a fault in the wiring loom. Vehicles that have been in an accident, had engine rebuilds, or had a radiator or cooling fan replaced are more vulnerable to stray current problems.

Below is a simple test:

• Remove radiator cap.
• Turn your multi-meter to the mV range.
• Insert the positive lead into the coolant. Do not allow it to touch any part of the radiator.
• Connect the negative lead to the earth terminal of the battery.
• Check for any reading above 50mV.
• Turn on the vehicle's accessories one at time. Any readings would mean there is probably a faulty earth associated with that accessory.

Probably do this before you commit to Alloy Radiator first too to make sure you can eliminate any stray current.

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Cheers for that, Ty! Invisi-rep.

[RX25SE]

I roll with plastic tanks.


Never a problem if you buy quality and maintain the coolant.

[Soop]

Both my OEM Holden and Subaru tanks have given up. Its just a fact of life with plastic tanks

That said, I wouldn't run out to change them if there's no issue.