Check Engine Light
#1
Posted 07 April 2011 - 07:34 PM
He picked up an MY00 WRX (not bugeye) on Monday, 111k on it. I believe it has the EJ205 motor. We checked everything you would normally check on the test drive. Been fine all week. But today he took it for a long drive up the coast - check engine light. Pulls over and apparently it appears there isn't much coolant - middle of nowhere so he puts water in it to get him home. The Check Engine goes away.
I went over and checked it out. Engine sounds fine, a little more aggressive than my B4, but overall - fine to me. We started it in the driveway and there was no light. It doesn't appear to be leaking and didn't overheat... Oil doesn't appear milky either (oil level is fine). He got it from a dealer so they are helping him out, taking it to Subaru tomorrow. Guessing they'll plug in a computer and checkout whats happening and of course drain and replace the coolant.
#2
Posted 07 April 2011 - 10:08 PM
I've had my check engine light on for 2 days now, because my car is in limp mode due to a lack of speed sensor. True story.
Cheers,
Shazza
I put up with people from amnesty, red cross and now the cancer council almost daily hounding me!! Throw in the greens, green peace, unhcr, save the forking children and I've well and truly hit my limit for the number of fuckstains wanting me to sign something or give money. Seriously cubts, right off.
#3
Posted 08 April 2011 - 06:33 PM
#4
Posted 08 April 2011 - 07:57 PM
if it's a little rough on idle, more than likely the AFM or an 02 sensor somewhere.. exhaust ones are common
#5
Posted 08 April 2011 - 08:29 PM
#6
Posted 09 April 2011 - 08:39 AM
#7
Posted 09 April 2011 - 09:05 AM
For a Gen three.
DTC No.
Item
P0031 HO2S Heater control circuit low (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0032 HO2S Heater control circuit high (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0037 HO2S Heater control circuit low (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0038 HO2S Heater control circuit high (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0068 Manifold absolute pressure/barometric pressure circuit range/performance
P0107 Manifold absolute pressure/barometric pressure circuit low input
P0108 Manifold absolute pressure/barometric pressure circuit high input
P0112 Intake air temperature circuit low input
P0113 Intake air temperature circuit high input
P0117 Engine coolant temperature circuit low input
P0118 Engine coolant temperature circuit high input
P0122 Throttle/pedal position sensor/switch A circuit low input
P0123 Throttle/pedal position sensor/switch A circuit high input
P0129 Barometric pressure too low
P0131 O2 sensor circuit low voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0132 O2 sensor circuit high voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0134 O2 sensor circuit no activity detected (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0137 O2 sensor circuit low voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0138 O2 sensor circuit high voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0327 Knock sensor 1 circuit low input (Bank 1 or Single sensor)
P0328 Knock sensor 1 circuit high input (Bank 1 or Single sensor)
P0335 Crankshaft position sensor A circuit
P0336 Crankshaft position sensor A circuit range/performance
P0340 Camshaft position sensor A circuit (Bank 1 or Single sensor)
P0341 Camshaft position sensor A circuit range/performance (Bank 1 or Single sensor)
P0458 Evaporative emission control system purge control valve circuit low
P0462 Fuel level sensor circuit low input
P0463 Fuel level sensor circuit high input
P0502 Vehicle speed sensor circuit low input
P0503 Vehicle speed sensor intermittent/erratic/high
P0512 Starter request circuit
P0513 Incorrect immobilizer key
P0519 Idle air control circuit system performance
P0565 Cruise control on signal
P0604 Internal control module random access memory (RAM) error
P0691 Cooling fan 1 control circuit low
P0692 Cooling fan 1 control circuit high
P0703 Torque converter/brake switch B circuit
P0705 Transmission range sensor circuit (PRNDL input)
P0710 Transmission fluid temperature sensor circuit
P0716 Input/turbine speed sensor circuit range/performance
P0720 Output speed sensor circuit
P0726 Engine speed input circuit range/performance
P0731 Gear 1 incorrect ratio
P0732 Gear 2 incorrect ratio
P0733 Gear 3 incorrect ratio
P0734 Gear 4 incorrect ratio
P0741 Torque converter clutch circuit performance or stuck off
P0743 Torque converter clutch circuit electrical
P0748 Pressure control solenoid A electrical
P0753 Shift solenoid A electrical
P0758 Shift solenoid B electrical
P0771 Shift solenoid E performance or stuck off
P0778 Pressure control solenoid B electrical
P0785 Shift/timing solenoid
P0851 Neutral switch input circuit low
P0852 Neutral switch input circuit high
P0864 TCM communication circuit range/performance
P0865 TCM communication circuit low
P0866 TCM communication circuit high
P1110 Atmospheric pressure sensor circuit malfunction (low input)
P1111 Atmospheric pressure sensor circuit malfunction (high input)
P1492 EGR solenoid valve signal #1 circuit malfunction (low input)
P1493 EGR solenoid valve signal #1 circuit malfunction (high input)
P1494 EGR solenoid valve signal #2 circuit malfunction (low input)
P1495 EGR solenoid valve signal #2 circuit malfunction (high input)
P1496 EGR solenoid valve signal #3 circuit malfunction (low input)
P1497 EGR solenoid valve signal #3 circuit malfunction (high input)
P1498 EGR solenoid valve signal #4 circuit malfunction (low input)
P1499 EGR solenoid valve signal #4 circuit malfunction (high input)
P1510 ISC solenoid valve signal #1 circuit malfunction (low input)
P1511 ISC solenoid valve signal #1 circuit malfunction (high input)
P1512 ISC solenoid valve signal #2 circuit malfunction (low input)
P1513 ISC solenoid valve signal #2 circuit malfunction (high input)
P1514 ISC solenoid valve signal #3 circuit malfunction (low input)
P1515 ISC solenoid valve signal #3 circuit malfunction (high input)
P1516 ISC solenoid valve signal #4 circuit malfunction (low input)
P1517 ISC solenoid valve signal #4 circuit malfunction (high input)
P1518 Starter switch circuit low input
P1560 Back-up voltage circuit malfunction
P1570 Antenna
P1571 Reference code incompatibility
P1572 IMM circuit failure
P1574 Key communication failure
P1576 EGI control module EEPROM
P1577 IMM control module
P1698 Engine torque control cut signal circuit malfunction (low input)
P1699 Engine torque control cut signal circuit malfunction (high input)
P1700 Throttle position sensor circuit malfunction for AT
P1711 Engine torque control signal #1 circuit malfunction
P1712 Engine torque control signal #2 circuit malfunction
Note: These are OBDII codes.
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?
#8
Posted 16 April 2011 - 10:14 PM
Also the clutch is failing in 3rd, mechanic noticed a slight slip and we tested it ourselves. Might have triggered the knock sensor too, if it jumped in the revs. So he is getting quotes on a new clutch now - which is a shame. I guess if it is the original clutch, they usually fail around 120k don't they?
#9
Posted 16 April 2011 - 10:44 PM
It was the knock sensor. They reckon the previous owner was running it on RON95, and now that he is running RON98, it might have had a hiccup on his first long drive in it.
Also the clutch is failing in 3rd, mechanic noticed a slight slip and we tested it ourselves. Might have triggered the knock sensor too, if it jumped in the revs. So he is getting quotes on a new clutch now - which is a shame. I guess if it is the original clutch, they usually fail around 120k don't they?
Correct. 100-130k kms is a good run.
New clutch kit.
Don't bother with HD. No need.
Also, don't forget to change the rear main seal. Some people will say "if it ain't broke, don't try to fix it".
I like to say "swallow a chainsaw you kent, its called preventative maintenance"
#10
Posted 16 April 2011 - 11:33 PM
haha Chainsaws.Correct. 100-130k kms is a good run.
New clutch kit.
Don't bother with HD. No need.
Also, don't forget to change the rear main seal. Some people will say "if it ain't broke, don't try to fix it".
I like to say "swallow a chainsaw you kent, its called preventative maintenance"
I replaced clutch at 112-113 on my Prezal. Just with OEM. Saw it today when bro dropped by, it's still going strong at 160. Preventative maintenance is the shizzle, and NEVER assume cos he bought it from a dealership that it's all good.
If thy tint is dark and thy wheels are black thou car be declared b11tchin'
So you can run it on 6psi with an rx fuel pump?
#11
Posted 17 April 2011 - 01:03 AM
And yeah it isn't covered under the 'warranty' so they can go to hell. I've been in it again since, the clutch does bite, we had it in second on a roundabout and when you give it a bit, and go up to third on the exit you can feel the slip. So its not terrible, but is 'on its way out'. Other than that the mechanics haven't had anything else to say about it.
#12
Posted 17 April 2011 - 08:40 AM
Only because the clutch isn't fully engaging, and you can potentially cause dramas with gears engaging.
Average price for a clutch replacement is $1200-$1400.
Make sure you don't get stung with TT tax. Yes. I got charged more for mine, (quoted $1200, then upon pickup, $1400). I asked why the increase in price. I was told that because my car was a TT, it involved more work.
I asked what was the difference between single turbo and TT in terms of clutch replacement... "You have to take the Y pipe off the exhaust"
Thank you Nick, NRG Automotive @ Rydalmere. CNUTS.
So if they try charging you more, pay it, and set fire to his shop.
#13 Guest_Jesse_*
Posted 17 April 2011 - 06:37 PM
That sucks Alex, I thought they had to call if they wanted to perform more work than quoted..?
#14
Posted 12 May 2011 - 10:23 PM
We investigated some more, and it does have a rough idle, and will actually start pinging slightly once it warms up. Subaru recommended a decarbonisation - but I have told him it might need a tune. The first time I have ever heard a car ping, now I understand the sound! It is running on BP Ultimate, so something is definitely not right, and the check engine isn't lying. Hopefully he can get it sorted soon, pizza doesn't pay well...
#15
Posted 12 May 2011 - 11:09 PM
Get a can of Subaru upper engine cleaner, smash that through and then take off the AFM and hose that sucker down with some AFM cleaner (Supercrap, Rortobarn or Ripco). If not already done, get that knock sensor sorted, if its naffed it the thing will pull timing or miss picking up knock and blow the engine to smitherines. The latter is probably unlikely as when a knock sensor fault occurs, the engine defends itself by pulling timing and being a homo.
My money is on the AFM if thats kicked the bucket or dirty, your mixtures will fail at life, and be a root of the detonation hes experiencing. Also, when he hits detonation, make sure he gets the welly off the juice button or he'll turn a big end into terminator toothpaste.
Also, if your low on engine coolant juice, it wont show up a CEL. Thats what the temp guage is for
'04 Liberty GT Premium "The Sprog Chariot"
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