Wagon, rear window squirter
#1
Posted 27 June 2011 - 03:52 PM
Just wondering if anyone else experiences a leaky window squirter under hard acceleration?
I put a fish tank check valve in on the weekend at the boot end of the piping to try offer some reisistance but it didnt stop it only slowed the flow! Before I put the valve in it I could almost get it to the top of the rear window! Now it squirts about 50-100mm
After some advice, before I just plug it completely as it would be nice to have it working still!
#2
Posted 27 June 2011 - 04:03 PM
#3
Posted 27 June 2011 - 04:12 PM
#4
Posted 27 June 2011 - 04:53 PM
maybe ask Alex or one of the other wagonistas if they have the same issue as well?
#5
Posted 27 June 2011 - 04:56 PM
swivel it so it sprays the person your chopping instead of on your rear window??
I like this one
#6
Posted 27 June 2011 - 05:10 PM
squirter
#7
Posted 27 June 2011 - 05:45 PM
Should have one fitted ex-factory?
Make sure there is no dirt under the seat of the valve.
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?
#8
Posted 27 June 2011 - 05:47 PM
the sled doesn't squirt.
the old L series did though.
#9
Posted 27 June 2011 - 05:57 PM
Im sure a check valve with a spring in it will fix this.
Should have one fitted ex-factory?
Make sure there is no dirt under the seat of the valve.
Where would i find this valve Jase?
I think my check valve addition has actually fixed it, it didnt seem to do it on the way home, but dont wanna talk too soon!
#10
Posted 27 June 2011 - 06:06 PM
MY07 GT spec B
#11
Posted 27 June 2011 - 06:37 PM
#12
Posted 27 June 2011 - 07:10 PM
This is a quick little write up for a problem that seems to occur with Subi's that have a rear washer jet. I've heard of it happening on Liberties as well as the Foresters (and I'm assuming it'd also happen on the wagon Imprezas as well).
The symptom is that under acceleration your rear washer jet will let a stream of water down the rear window, whether you want it to or not. It starts off as a little splutter occasionally, and after a short time it'll turn into a constant stream when you're accelerating.
The fault is that a little one-way valve in the line just gives up the ghost. Here are the steps to replace it. Should only take a few minutes to do, up to you if you require beer for the task
YOU NEED:
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- Small flat head screwdriver
- Small phillips head screwdriver
- Needle nose pliers
- One-way valve replacement (Subaru OEM part: SU-86634AA010 - should only be around $8 or so, may need to be ordered in)
STEP 1:
Open your boot, and with your flat head screwdriver, pop the two blanks on the underside of the centre tail light cover. There are two screws under there. Undo those, and the cover should lift out and off with little force required.
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STEP 2:
Once you've taken the cover off, look up underneath the white molded plastic. You should see 4 screws the same size, all positioned around the mounts for the outside cover. The pic below shows two, there's another two on the other side of the light in the same spot.
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Once they're removed, the light will hang loose. It's free to do so, though you may want to pull the cable through a little more than what's shown here so the plug doesn't get in the way of your pliers in the next step.
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STEP 3:
I didn't get a photo of this, sun was way too bright and I couldn't focus on the right spot. But if you look in the picture just above, up inside the hole where the light is hanging from you'll see the back side of the plastic washer jet. There are two tabs, one one on either side of the hole. These need to be squeezed inwards, and the whole unit wiggled outwards for the jet to pop out of the bodywork. Needle nosed pliers time.
Once that's done, pull it through a little more and you'll see this:
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There's the one-way valve in line there. Take note that the direction of the arrow is pointing towards the jet, not the other way. Actually, there you can see the two tabs I was talking about earlier (which are a little scuffed up thanks to my previous attempts with inferior pliers).
At this point, pull the rubber pipe off and replace the valve with the new one. I managed to do it with a little persuasion, but pulling the pipe off is much harder than placing it back on the new one again.
STEP 4:
Put everything back together again in the reverse order. You may want to get a cloth and clean away the gunk that's built up around the edge of the jet against your paintwork. Or not, your choice. Go for a test drive, enjoy your now completely dry rear window.
#13
Posted 27 June 2011 - 07:56 PM
Time to pull the ol workshop manual out!
#15
Posted 27 June 2011 - 08:36 PM
I therory you could just fit the valve down near the pump if you don't want to rip the car apart.
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?
#16
Posted 27 June 2011 - 08:37 PM
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