Project Anchorman - the legend of Burgundy...
Scuba-Roo 14 Aug 2011
In other news, i love 6speeds. "that awkward moment when your fooli sik 80k hsv gets obliterated by a shitbox 20yr old family wagon while showing off to a bunch of chicks in the back seat"
Haha thats gold!
Grant 14 Aug 2011
In other news, i love 6speeds. "that awkward moment when your fooli sik 80k hsv gets obliterated by a shitbox 20yr old family wagon while showing off to a bunch of chicks in the back seat"
Lololol, so much win right here.
RX25SE 14 Aug 2011
Got a new clutch, fitted it Friday night, works fine.
Which bit was incorrect/faulty?
Hahaha
Reminds me of the days when I used to go 'nugget hunting' in my Gemini wagon.
(before cars went psssshhhhhhfufufufufufu)
Morgan 14 Aug 2011
Lol she didnt realise who you were so she played dumb
Haha I figured as much
Marv 14 Aug 2011
RX25SE 14 Aug 2011
Pressure plate was the only thing left from the first setup i tried. I looked at it on friday night when i dropped the box and the fingers sat very slightly outwards - rather than flat or sitting inwards - which indicates too much preload on the pressure plate. Its the right part number so i think its a manufacturing defect with th thickness of the friction material on the pressure plate.
Maybe mismatched parts?
If the fingers have not pulled in enough then, as you say, clutch plate is too thin.
Marv 15 Aug 2011
Here are some pics of the shenanigans. I stopped taking pics once things started going wrong. I'll get some more once I've cleaned the car up
A pile of bits. This is pretty much everything you need to put a 6MT/R180 into a GC8/Gen1 Lib. The parts there include - box, diff centre, rear shafts, rear hubs, auto tailshaft, rear rotors, 2-pot rear brakes, GD lateral control arms (to suit CV shafts), 6MT mount, 6MT shifter (specific to type of box you're using - Lib for Lib box, STi for STi box, etc). I'm also using a 6MT clutch which means I need the 6MT starter.
I had to get a new diff flange put on the front of my R180 snout so it would all match up with my auto tailshaft. Gen1 Libs aren't the same flange pattern as GC8 WRX so watch that. Also, you have to set the preload when you tighten the nut to make sure it's correctly torqued. Too loose and it could rattle off and leave the diff innards to slop around and destroy themselves. Too tight and it cruses a tube inside the diff. I had a diff shop do it for me. Much easier
6MT flywheel - machined. This is now a paperweight Please note - going from 5MT to 6MT, the 6MT flywheel uses 9 bolts to hold the pressure plate on, not 6 as per the 5MT.
My 6MT is a 2005 model so it takes male CV shafts (which plug INTO the box). As I wanted to use my original RS/GC8 driveshafts and front hubs I needed to convert the box to this spec. I ordered new 5MT seals from Subaru and got hold of a pair of front CV stubs from an early Liberty auto gearbox. Pry the old seal out, carefully tap the new seal in, push stubs in, give them a tap 'til they go *click* and you're done. Note - to buy those stubs from Subaru you're looking at +$300ea
The old lameness - the R160 rear-end. I left the calipers attached to the brake lines to minimise fluid lost when I attached the 2-pots. Otherwise the whole cradle pretty much came out in 1 go.
Apart from their superior roll centres (due to better mounting points for their lateral arms), another reason to get a GD STi cradle is their solid mounting bushes
R160
R180
Another view of the R180. Cusco arms are a nice addition. Thanks, Gotitrex!
Due to pre-99 motors running a 4-bolt motor I don't have the extra threaded hole for the lower starter bolt. This meant I had to tap a thread for a bolt (a diff stud works well)... well, I had to get my neighbour to do it as I was getting pics. Say g'day to Ron everyone!
6MT vs 5MT. Bit of a difference.
6MT clutch set-up (bottom) vs 5MT (top). I now know the 6MT pressure plate pictured is wrong. The 6MT clutch runs a larger diameter face, so theoretically has more grip
I'll get more pics soon
Marv 06 Sep 2011
If there is any interest i can do a diy thread on it?
RX25SE 07 Sep 2011
Any idea on how much dyno time to setup?
Throw up a thread.
Reading about this stuff makes my bumhole tingle.
Marv 08 Sep 2011
Do you have a baseline setup for the E8 or do you start from scratch?
Any idea on how much dyno time to setup?
Throw up a thread.
Reading about this stuff makes my bumhole tingle.
I've got copies of the tunes I had done on my last RS (which ran a Haltech E11v2), and the mate of mine I got this E8 off has copies of all his tunes for his different motor/injector/turbo set-ups, plus about 5 other cars. With the wideband, this allows me to upload a tune for a similarly set-up car and then refine it.
I won't be going to a tuner as the only guy I'd trust with the car (MSR) doesn't tune Haltechs. Going off past experience, it will probably take us 1-2 hours late at night (on private roads *cough*) to refine the tune and boost, with more minor fiddling to come over a 6month period - going out once every few weeks to datalog for 10-15mins, then make small adjustments to really refine the tune.
I'm still trying to decide if I'm going to go under-manifold intake or not. I don't think I will, but I'd like to move some stuff about in the engine bay (meaning I'll probably soon go to Pirtek to have new PS lines done up).
Marv 08 Sep 2011
Next time you need shit, come up, we'll drink beer and work on your car in my garage