I didn't take pics, but here's the process anyway. You'll need 19mm spanners/sockets, plus 14/17/32mm sockets and spanners, a hammer, a cable tie/rope/twine, some Inox/WD40/RP7. I'll take a pic of the old hub and label each of the bolts - it's pretty simple, though.
1. Before you jack the car up, crack the wheel nuts and the 32mm CV shaft retaining nut. You won't get 'em off in the air.
2. Jack the car so the wheel is off the ground. I try to get it about 20cm off the ground to give me decent working room. Use stands under the chassis rails. YOu'll need 'em.
3. Pull the wheel off, slide it under the car.
4. Undo split-pin on the tie rod castle nut (on the steering arm).
5. Using a 17mm socket undo the castle nut, but leave it sitting on the end of the thread, protecting the thread.
6. Pull the hub full lock towards you and, while holding it at full lock, hit the end of the tie rod next to the thread. DO NOT HIT THE THREAD OR THE NUT - you will only seize it tighter
7. The tie rod end should drop out after a few big belts. Clean it with Inox, then push the hub back.
8. Undo the two 17mm bolts on the back of the hub, holding the caliper to the hub, then cable tie the caliper out of the way.
9. Slide the rotor off the hub. If you have ABS, using a 14mm socket undo the sensor from the back of the hub.
10. Above the balljoint, on the front edge of the hub is a 14mm bolt. Undo that, remove the bolt and then reach in behind the hub, under the CV shaft. There is a split there you need to hammer a large flathead screwdriver into to open the gap.
11. Slide a large bar between the top of the control arm and the chassis, then push down HARD on it. This pops the ball joint out of the hub. Will take some force.
12. Clean up the balljoint with some Inox and wipe it off
13. Mark the position of the top bolt head on the bolt and the shock with a marker. This is your camber bolt. You want this in the same position to avoid getting a wheel alignment.
14. Undo and remove the two 19mm bolts. Top first, then bottom.
15. As the hub falls forward, tap the end of the CV shaft with the handle of the hammer to loosen the splines. The hub should wiggle off the end.
16. Get your new hub and wipe a very thin layer of HTB grease on the inside of the balljoint aperture and tie rod apertures. If its from a wrecker, rotate the bearing and make sure it spins. Get some Inox in there too
17. Slide the hub over the end of the CV shaft and put the 32mm nut on the end. Do it up a few turns.
18. Carefully tap the ball joint into the bottom hole and do up the 14mm bolt nice and tight - not too tight. If you snap that, you're f**ked.
19. Next should be the strut bolts. Slide the bottom one in, but don't do it up. Wiggle the top in, aligning the bolt head with the mark you put on the strut to set your camber.
20. Put the nuts on the end of the strut bolts and tighten the top one first, then the bottom one.
21. If you have ABS, fit the sensor to the hub using the 14mm socket
22. Put the tie rod end in the hub, tighten the nut down and replace the split pin (very important)
23. Slide the rotor over the hub and fit the caliper with the 17mm bolts
24. Refit the wheel (WITHOUT THE CENTRE CAP) and lower the car off the stands.
25. Torque up your wheel nuts and the CV nut. You will need to check them after the first 50km to make sure they haven't loosened (incl. the CV nut)
Should take about 30mins to do
