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B4 engine removel


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#1 HowFarToAsgaard

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 11:58 AM

How hard of a job is it to remove a 3gen b4 engine?
Got oil coining out of timing cover and was thinking would it be Eeazyer to just fix it all with the engine out? Also wana change engine mounts and celeb injectors. And maybe change a noisey lifter.
So having it out would make it a lot Eeazyer but iv never taken a subuy engine out and probably a lot harder then I think.
If its gonna be Eeazyer to just do one bit at a time with it in then let ill forget about it.



#2 Scuba-Roo

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 12:00 PM

The NA engines are piss easy. Its onky the turbos and intercooler thats really different. Im sure the workshop manual would tell you exactly what to do

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#3 Guest_KONG_*

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 12:10 PM

Actually I thought it wasn't too hard at all. Just have to be careful of the BBOD & vac lines etc. & obviously label EVERYTHING you remove.

The manual you have is definately needed.

What I did was take video and said what I was doing & what I removed along the way. This was a massive help and I referred back to it many times.

There are heaps of vids & tutorials on Subaru engine removal on youtube also. Check them out.

Don't forget to do your plugs while the engine is out ;)

#4 tmh983

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 01:28 PM

one tip i can give is to take the o2 sensor out of the exhaust before you lift the motor, it sticks out at an awkward angle and can get get caught easily and break, and they are not cheap to replace...

#5 TSG

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 03:14 PM



#6 HowFarToAsgaard

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 03:22 PM

Would it be Eeazyer to just leave the engine in and do it from there ?

#7 Tim.

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 03:27 PM

*easier

#8 Zac

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 03:53 PM

*easier

Yes thank you... I've been waiting for someone to say this...

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#9 Jovi

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 05:07 PM

9 steps and with a bit of know how and a hoist about 2 hours to get it out....

Btw the lifters in these a shims that get replaced so you got to measure them carefully before removal.and dont mix them...
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#10 Guest_KONG_*

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 07:07 PM

9 steps and with a bit of know how and a hoist about 2 hours to get it out....

Btw the lifters in these a shims that get replaced so you got to measure them carefully before removal.and dont mix them...


1) The 9 steps are pointless mentioning if you are not going to explain what they are.

2) Obviously he doesn't have the "know how" cause he's asking for advice.

3) I can guarantee a 1st timer will take longer than 2 hours to remove an engine.

4) The advice about the lifters & shims is good advice & the only thing useful in your post.

#11 Guest_KONG_*

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 09:58 PM

Anyhoooooo......

Yeah mate I reckon you would be best off pulling the engine out especially seeing you are considering changing mounts. Good oppertunity to service everything too. As you would be aware there is Posted Image all room to work with in the engine bay.
Could be a bit fiddly.

It's suprisingly easy to pull the engine out. If you need any tips or pointers or have any questions about the process I would be happy to answer them. Flick me a PM anytime mate.





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#12 Tim.

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 10:58 PM

Having done an engine swap as well, i have a BUNCH of photos to refer to if you are wondering what hose goes where.

#13 MrSober88

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 01:32 PM

It would be really easy if you take photos etc. of what you do, then you know you have put everything back the way it was.

I started doing this but then got sick of stopping what I was doing to take a shot. So now I am a little confused of where some stuff went. So I have to look through the service manual to figure it out haha.

The idea about recording what you are doing is a great idea.

#14 HowFarToAsgaard

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 01:57 PM

Yeh still fighting whether to go ahead with it.
All I'm doing is timing belt kit water and oil pump and cam seals. It would make it a lot easier to do it with it out. was going to do the mounts and the rear assess plates as well but I think there fine now. So I think too much work for what I wana do.

#15 CodeBurn3r

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 05:02 PM

allow 2 hours for that FARKING rear AC bracket bolt!
FFS i just did this on the weekend.. i forgot how Posted Image'ing annoying that one is haha
luck i have all the home made bits and pieces to do it now.. but for a first timer.. its a bitch haha

P.S. i dont remove intake to pull the engine... un-nessisary

quick rundown..

1) remove Radiator and crack Crank pulley bolt
2) remove shit on side of engine bay ( battery, washer bottle, intake etc)
3 remove AC and Pwr Steering (strap to the side)
4) remove engine mounts and headers
5) remove Electrical connectors and fuel lines
6) remove bell housing bolts / starter and pitch stopper (pull type clutch owners remove clutch fork pin)
6.5) auto owners(undo 4x torque converter bolts through inspection hole)
7) start lifting engine and split bell housing.


sorry didnt read B4...

Black box of death....

as above but add 2 hours for seized turbo bolts
and add 6 days for re-connecting and troubleshooting Black box of death lol
ams: "Can't live with them, can't throw rocks at them."

#16 Beckers

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 06:17 PM

If you didn't do the lifter, I would do the rest with the engine in the car.
As Ty & others have already said, they are very easy to work on when out.
But it's a much bigger job when removing engine to do it

#17 allpaw4

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 07:01 PM

Remember to crack the crank bolt before you drop the engine. You're going to have fun with it if you remove it beforehand...
Also, plan for a complete day. All sorts of fun will hit you for the first time, and yes, label EVERYTHING. Cannot express that enough.
Make sure you do it during the day when places like Bursons or Repco are open, so when you bust something you can get replacements, like turbo flange bolts etc.
If you have access to a hoist, use it, as it will save the need to separate the gearbox from the engine, and therefore a lot of time fiddling with hard to reach bolts and clutch assemblies.

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